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NiftyFifty

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Everything posted by NiftyFifty

  1. Well that's good, I'm still not a big fan of the mopar...but I also needed 100 amp minimum for all my accessories and that's even more $ if you can get in mopar. I even switched my car to the 1 wire GM for the same reason. Have you re-wired the truck as well? One nice thing is you can run lighter gauge wire then the 6 volt system, and bulbs are easier to find and adding accessories is much easier. I converted my truck over from day 1, as I needed all new wiring anyway.
  2. Aren't those externally regulated? It's much easier to use a 1 or 3 wire GM quite honestly....same amount of work and internally regulated..and much cheaper then the mopar option
  3. Not if the proper flange head bolts are used, if your trying standard bolts then you should use washers...but from my own experience I don't recommend it...use real head bolts..their meant to stretch. Summit sells a very close to original bolt
  4. Sadly mine has no plug, but when I get ambitious and change the rear diff out to a different gear set, I'll drill and tap one in to that housing, or the spare I have from the exact same model/yr car. Finding 1967 Monaco parts is about as much fun as finding 48-53 Dodge side mirror brackets.
  5. A good hammer and chisel and you can have the standard 10 bolt design...LOL but most likely was just two different production runs and possibly another company that used that diff, but had 11 studs for their design..or an older version of the same axle and it was pulled as they used up stock, but good to know you found your seals. Sadly drain holes were not thought of in most mopar diff a that I've seen...my 67 Monaco doesn't have one and you have to suck out the fluid, which isn't ideal IMO
  6. Lots of wiring diagrams online, just google the tack make, I had to do it a week ago for an old tach I found to put in my Monaco. The truck has a fancy 5" 3in1 Omega tach...it wires really funny
  7. Going down the highway, there is enough air for the rad and the holes and plenty extra...cruising in town..the fan is doing all the work there, and any spots to get more air in or hot air out is a good thing. I have front mounted double 9" fans that push air through the rad as well if things get too warm for the smaller engine fan I had to use. Computer fans won't move much air, and likely won't survive the under hood abuse very long...I think in some cases it's a matter of really checking with a laser and seeing what's truly hot..or just feels that way to us
  8. There is a rectangle plate in the grill that can be removed or opened for better air flow on the psgr side of the engine compartment...I knocked mine out when I thought I was having heating issues...turns out I just needed the resistor that came with the gauge installed...it said it wasn't needed on all systems, but apparently mine did, because checking with the laser thermometer showed me I was never getting as hot as the gauge read
  9. Sounds like a viable start and a rebuild or refresh candidate...you have the front plate and all the parts you need on your original engine no? Could be it was put into a later car or truck that had PS, and alternator is always better then generator. I wouldn't get so concerned on the numbers, best is to pull the head and do the measurements (if you didn't already), and I recommend pulling a piston too...if you run into an industrial motor like I did, it had 3 ring Pistons instead of 4, and finding parts was a chore....so better to be prepared if you want to bore or even just re-ring.
  10. If you tried running it without the needle, you may want to pull the plugs and blow the excess gas out of the cylinders and also check how much gas is in your oil...if a cylinder is full now it could hydro lock
  11. http://www.johnnylawmotors.com/catalog/power-electrical-systems/power-accessories/power-window-kits/AUTPW55033/flat-power-window-kit-with-3-switches?refid=5153&utm_source=MailingList&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2016-06+-+MS+-+AutoLoc+Exclusive+Offers Option for universal power windows. I ordered lots from Johnny Laws, good to deal with
  12. Not to derail this, but anyone else here going to Devils Lake,Nd next week-end? It's as far south as I think I'll make it this year...still trying to decide on truck or car tho
  13. I would look at cutting out the firewall on the donor vehicle and fabricating that into your Dodge firewall...and as for the pedals,..if you do that, you also solve the pedal problem, you likely will have to source a different booster tho, that might be much too big to fit under the old hood. The original pedals/mounts are basically apart of the bell housing and rear engine support..so using that would be a nightmare on a custom build and virtually impossible. The more of the donor you can use, the better off you will be
  14. I got a locking door handle from Spaenaur, not just a lock cylinder, they look great and work very nice..just had to cut the square shaft to match the original length. http://spaenaur.com/catalog/#L7
  15. Yes, you can just barely see it through that hole, but don't attempt it without soaking it a few times with PB blaster or WD40 etc....they are not usually a fun screw to take out. Best if you have a good solid screwdriver with a hex shaft and a small pair of vice grips, then push in hard with one hand, and turn the screwdriver with the vice grips....even then, mine would never come out...but I just installed a drivers door handle with a locking key, the psgr side can be locked from inside
  16. I made my own window channels out of 3/4" tubing that I cut in half, and then I glued the actual rubber/felt channel into them for my power window set-up. There is no power window kit for these trucks, you have to just buy a universal and mount them inside the door. I got mine through gearheadworld.com but their definitely the cheapest set and sometimes work like it too.
  17. I use 30 or 40 weight in mine, it never sees cold weather and a lot of highway miles. I also add zddp additive as I believe it's a must in old engines like these...others may disagree, but for a few bucks it's peace of mind and can't hurt anything. I also refuse to buy cheap oil...and point on contention on here...but quality to me is important, and cheap oil screams cheap additives, and poorer standards in my books.
  18. Start soaking that cylinder as soon as possible, if you haven't been already. It's not a fun job usually, but there are a few threads on here with tips on getting them free
  19. Agree with Ed, way better warm! I'm gonna miss the big retailer tents this year, not that I need anything, but that building with the tools got my attention for a couple hours last year, and the Napa booth saved my butt when my carb return spring calved on the way to the show
  20. Sorry to hear, it's always a bit of a gamble on these old girls, but here's hoping your other block works out! I'd offer you one, but I sent mine to scrap yard heaven last fall...cleaning up to move. Or.....just buy my truck....save all the hassle..LOL
  21. I removed springs for height reasons, but I know my front springs need to be re-arched, as they sit way too close to the bump stops all the time. If you can take the springs out and take them to a spring shop, it might be a more inexpensive fix then new.
  22. Absolutely love those trucks, great find!
  23. Yep, maybe 2017...if. Still have my truck...but even if I didn't I'm likely to have something else that qualifies
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