NiftyFifty

Checked mine over this spring when I removed 2 more leaves from the rear springs...looked good, but I went with my arc, rather then my mig , just to be sure I was getting them stuck good

70 years ago you couldn't swing into the parts store and grab a can of seafoam or MM or spray carb cleaner....you absolutely can today, and it's a much safer and appropriate application....why that wouldn't sense as the first choice, is beyond me, but as we all live in free countries...have at it with your own selected method.....and don't forget to keep your blinker fluid up!!

Careful cutting the old spring perches on the old jeep rear diff, and make sure you have good heat and penatration when welding on the new perches.....sorry...obvious stuff I know...but that's a pretty crucial part to the swap, and it's also s good time to service those rear shackles...I know mine weren't great when I started. Good luck

First I've ever seen of that...but still has zero to do with pouring water down the carb of a flathead engine to remove carbon, your comparing something specifically designed to introduce tiny amounts of water into the plenum for cooling, too someone pouring water directly into the fuel system of an engine designed 75+ years ago

Why would anyone think that "steam" is a better cleaning agent then something that was designed to remove carbon, and be safe for the engine? Just because someone has done something and they think it helped, it doesn't make it right...I'm sorry, but in no fashion is adding water an acceptable thing to do on any engine, no matter how slow. Steam can also hydro lock a cylinder and incur damage, and water also washes cylinder walls, which removes the cross hatching. This reminds me of the diesel mechanics that throw comet powder cleaner in the intake of the engine to scratch the cylinder walls to stop oil burning....works likely 1 outta 100 times, and just long enough to sell it to he next poor guy.

??????? Don... A compression test is an essential part of figuring out what and where the problem is...and the addition of oil down the cyl can help to identify ring pressure loss, or valve issues...but I'm not sure why we think it's just a head gasket issue....unless we have white blowing smoke out the tailpipe or oil in the coolant...it could be a number of things that have made this engine lose power and from the test, we now see compression. Your starter motor is irrelevant in the equation...you can test compression with a crank if you had too....or in a two stroke or small engine application...a recoil /kick start. Pulling the head is the thing too do, but a stuck valve , or cracked ring(s) could cause similar issues

NEVER AND I MEAN NEVER pour water down any carb or in any engine!! Water of course is non combustible, and such can and will cause it to hyrdolock and has ZERO ability to remove carbon. Sorry if this seems like a harsh reply, but that's bordering on dangerous advice. Use carb/intake cleaner or something like Marvel Mystery Lube and pour it very slowly down...something that will burn, and has carbon/varnish removing capabilities, but again...not too much to where you could lock the engine and cause damage. With spray I will run the engine for about 3-5 mins giving it spurts and letting it clean itself out then again and finally I will stall the motor out with the spray and let it sit about 30 mins, then restart...but I'm just choking it/flooding it out...not causing a locking issue. I'm a huge fan of the Marvel....it's amazing stuff, and free'd up my stuck rings last year.

Not sure what kind of efi is going to go on to an application like this...the wiring alone would be a nightmare, and nothing to say you would fix anything that's actually wrong. You will have to get a new electric fuel pump, so you do eliminate the entire original fuel system...but if someone was going to go to that extent, I would throw the points out and more to electronic spark control from Pertronix and a brand new high output coil as well. Hope you end up with what your after...playing Guinea pig sometimes pays off, and sometimes back fires

Sounds like maybe a worn spring if you can't get it to hold or stop ticking with adjustment, but you may also consider running something like Marvel Mystery Lube or Seafoam in the fuel and see if it goes away...may be a dry valve, and this junk ethanol fuel doesn't help that. I've got a tick in mine that I've never been able to make go away, I've concluded the same issue...weak spring(s) and lousy fuel...because I swear it's not as loud on premium, but I also add the MM to my fuel, so might just be that.

What is the ratio of the stock 1/2 ton rear diff now? It may be 3:55, so changing it may be little advancement, but if it is something like 4:10/11 then a good choice is a jeep Cherokee/Wranger rear diff, and you can also look at a new style and get rear disc brakes, but of course then I recommend changing the front over to disc as well. As for the stock trans options, I would say the auto is the better choice over the stock 4 speed, but again I wouldn't use either...I prefer my overdrive 5 speed. What it all really comes down too, is what the end use is for the truck, is it a weekend short distant cruiser, or is he planning to drive this every day, and planning to hit the highway in it a lot? Now is the time to do upgrades, while its still in the build phase IMO

I did the exact same as Don, works just fine, and easier to find

Yep, Merle has good points, but I also recommend extra ZDDP additive, OR break on oil on start, and for the first 1000-1500 miles, then change and a good solid old car oil and I still always use a ZDDP/Phos additive to my engine, as these engines should have that. Some will tell you new oil is fine on its own, but that hold no water with me...newer engines don't require the same additives as flat tappet engines. As for break-in....don't hold at any constant RPM for any period of time for the first 500 miles, and try to vary for 1500-2000 miles after as well.....but pretty standard stuff for any new engine

The S truck T5 works best because of the shifter placement, not sure what other ones would work...I know Mustang is not a fit. The full size 1/2 tons with V6's used the T5 as well I believe...should be the same...but that might be even rarer

If you ever had any ideas of a T5 swap to get OD, then now is the time to do that mod as well before building a new custom driveshaft...the new one wouldn't fit if you switched later on

Cool truck, good luck with your build! Oh....and some of us even prefer no grill bars!!

Before you do anything, I would try getting it hot and starting with the pedal floored, and if no go, try a bit of choke and a little pedal....then once you figure out if it's fuel or spark start working on the problem...although changing the coil and wrapping line won't hurt, or cost much

Welcome to the forum. So by "won't start" do you mean won't crank over, or will crank just fine, but won't fire? If it's #1, then he timing is very likely too far advanced and once hot it's building pressure and won't turn over fast enough.....if it's #2 then most likely a coil issue, but it could just be that your boiling or evaporating the gas all out of the bowl, and you actually need to choke it to start it.....but more info would help on a desktop diagnosis.

Any 25" block pan should work, but you also need the oil pick up as well from the donor engine I believe

I gave up around page 11...LOL. The T5 is a much easier install, with kits already available and for basically the same trans as that Ford/Mazda one. If you try hard enough, you can mount anything behind there...but sometimes not being the guinea pig is nice too.

Dumping a Chevy for a Dodge....no brainer on this site...but be warned, parts are not quite as easy to find for the PH as they are for that Chevy. As for trans, a lot of guys here, including myself have used the T5 Borg Warner from the S trucks, and for the rear diff the Jeep Cherokee and Wrangler are a pretty close match in terms of width and decent to find gear ratios. I'm running 3:55, but I'm seriously looking at a 3:73 swap...wind is becoming my enemy to hold the truck at 65-70 in 5th gear. Good luck on your swap

Exactly what I did...but I was more concerned with saving my power steering rack..which they also do

My sump is right over the axle on mine...which sucks because it's been dented once from a hard hit..but my engine block/pan was from a combine..and my 218 pan was full of connecting rod holes, so it wasn't going to work.

Is this on a flathead engine?

That access hole would suck so bad, for so many jobs it's not even funny.....what about cutting a new hole and making a nice access panel like the North American version? You could do like myself and others and make a door panel that comes down to the bottom sill rather then just the small stock one

Count me in too, my drivers door had the same whammy in it...I think those hinge stops must have failed pretty easily and was a design flaw for all the trucks. Heat and a stud gun with a puller is about the best choice. I have seen guys with limited tools just drill small holes in the door and a piece of flat bar and some small bolts pull the dents out by tightening them slowly.