NiftyFifty
-
Posts
2,263 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Links Directory
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Downloads
Store
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Everything posted by NiftyFifty
-
The .76 would be my choice for the 3:55...the more rpm the better for hills and windy days...but the difference is pretty minimal anyway
-
WOW......what more can I say about this post....completely inappropriate and un-warranted There were a lot of great posts and info given, and everyone is at the mercy of information we have, and our own experience, which as a whole, is many many years combined.
-
You could likely get away with a common 3:73 rear axle from a Cherokee/Jeep, but 4:11 would be better with the T5...that or you won't get much use out of OD, as you won't have enough rpm for the engine to keep lugging. I have 3:5? Gears and my truck lugs on really windy days and steep hills...but I'm not running a ground cam, and just a single carb...future plans are twin int/exh and Pertronix distb
-
You can never go wrong with a little more horsepower and torque, and side by side, 25" blocks are identical, so you don't lose any originality or any major changes....Id go for it...it's what I did, dumped the 218 and ran a 251
-
Yes Merle is right, the original location is further down...I know, cause it's a pain to hook up two springs! lol
-
I can't tell you a part number, but for safety's sake I always recommend a two spring system, it's what the companies moved too in later carb'ed years...and it's just one spring that fit inside the other, incase the main spring fails....which I have had...in the middle of Minneapolis on the way to Back to the 50's....sucked bad....LOL Napa had a spring set I found to work, but I did search a long time to find a set that wasn't to hard on the foot, and one that would fully pull back the throttle too
-
If you search my original thread there is pictures, can't recall if measurements or not, but very simple to make...Cherokee is the best fitting and if you have front disc, a must
-
Nice thing is, you can use the head off your 218, and the exh/int manifolds as well...even the timing chain set if you want...everything is a direct fit
-
Can't speak to that, but I advise people to avoid the Omega gauges, at least the 5" 3 in 1, had nothing but issues with mine...finally got 95% worked out, but I regret not buying Dakota
-
You try Rockauto for parts?
-
Looks good!
-
The only reason you mill the head is to make it flat and true on the mounting surface (performance reasons aside) so your at the mercy of what the machine shop needs to do to make that straight..that's why mine was so severe, that's what it needed to be true again. Don't take enough, and you've wasted your time and $
-
In reality all you can do is ask it to be made straight, which means they will take the bare minimum to ensure its flat. Don't be too worried about the amount, they took 1/16th off mine to get it right, but it doesn't really hurt, as long as you use a good new headgasket and some copper spray. You can likely get a shim if you really needed, but I wouldn't worry...just a little more compression and more power As for the combustion chamber grind...I cleaned mine up too, should help shed heat better
-
Yep, sump pump hose would work fine...or shop vac hose might be the same
-
Wow...you got me...never noticed that in my block when I stripped it, or had it dipped
-
The 218 isn't bad, but the 251 is a good jump in power, and all the same parts as the 218 anyway. Something to consider, the engine is much easier to work on out of the truck anyway...so just about the same amount of work.
-
Top one mounts under the frame between the engine and frame...I can't recall which side is which...the bottom I have no idea...unless it's the opposite side, and someone has hacked 1/2 it off??
-
Yep, identical one....but I can wait until you decide which engine you want to build..sometimes best to keep the pair together
-
If you have a spare intake manifold you don't want, I'm looking for one from a 25" block
-
Shaving the head is fine, but I do recommend copper spray on everything once it's her gasket time. I have a 251 in my 50, and I went through a few headgaskets until I used copper spray on everything. Also check out Northern Auto Parts for your rebuild parts, they got me the new pistons I needed, as my 251 IND had 3 ring pistons instead of the standard 4. Better hurry, best machine shop in Brandon is closing in December
-
251 flathead truck engine Compatibility
NiftyFifty replied to Bill from SE WA's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Maybe I read wrong....the motor is in...but the transmission isn't...he wants to know if the fluid drive system will bolt to a 251 engine that wasn't meant for fluid drive...lets just drop the flywheel question....its in and working fine from what I can read. Somewhere I thought I read the crank was different on engines meant for fluid drive to accept the input shaft..and it was actually a bit longer then a standard crank...but it's been a lot of years and a lot of beers between then and now -
251 flathead truck engine Compatibility
NiftyFifty replied to Bill from SE WA's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
He has a 230 going to 251....he already has the flywheel bolted up....issues is fluid drive to non fluid drive engine -
251 flathead truck engine Compatibility
NiftyFifty replied to Bill from SE WA's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I'm sure someone will be able to tell you 100%, but I believe there is something different with the crank in the fluid drive engines. The flywheel will work between both, I used my 218 on my 251 and fit just fine...230 should be no different. -
But what connects the sleeve to the cut off hollow shaft? You can't weld to it safely, and pinning a hollow tube isn't an option either...only way I could see was spline the original shaft and somehow pinch a steering joint onto it
-
So how are you connecting the original steering shaft to the Saturn column?
