NiftyFifty

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Expansion!s!Freeze+Plug+-+Universal/N0290/C0142.oap in a tough spot you could get by with these, but not a permanent fix

When my 218 went it shattered a piston and stuck a rod through the pan...it ran 5 miles home, started multiple times that fall, and again next spring fired up and drove into the shop across the yard....so strange how some go forever and the next makes a bang and it's toast

Strangely it should still run with a bent rod tho

I had my cable made locally and it wasn't a big deal, cost $50-$60 I believe. Try your local Napa or parts stores and see if any of them do custom cables, Napa here did mine.

I didn't know the 292 was a direct bolt to the T5? Your already going to have to mock up new pedal mounts and master Cyl and clutch...if I was going that far I would look at a 318 or 350 V8 swap

It is a little small, but I still don't think it's your problem. Can you get a 8 or 9mm inside diameter line?

If it's clamped properly I see no reason it can suck air, but is that a 1/4" or 5/16 filter? I prefer the metal style double male filters, not a fan of plastic is a hot environment, even that high up. if your sucking air, more likely vacuum line or carb base gasket

I have one just before my electric pump and one just before the carb, never had any issues, but I also don't run a manual fuel pump. As long as you have a good flowing 5/16 filter you should be fine

I guess a few more details would help, but I would change the oil, I would remove the plugs and pour some Marvel Mystery down the oil down the cylinders and in the intake (just a bit) and let it soak for a few days, then without the ign on I would crank it with the plugs out and let any excess push out, just to be sure you don't hydro lock it, but at the same time turn it over without ign to prime the oil system before firing, then as the other have said, feed it off a clean fuel source and possibly some mixed fuel. once started I would feed it more MMO down the carb while controlling the throttle under the hood, cleaning out the system, which will help with any possible stuck rings or valves...but again..just small drips , not pours as you don't want to lock it up...just enough to sound like you've got the choke on full and have to give it more throttle to keep it going good luck!

Be careful...that's how this ended up happening. With the stock spring stops, it can hit on a bad bump. I have power steering rack and its close to interfering with the pan, so I need to swap this out anyway...then I can lose the extra blocks I have in to limit the springs

I'm switching to front sump, my rear main was leaking so it was time...beyond time now I see this. It was laying in the bottom of the pan not attached, the cotter pin still in the tube. I had to cut the original pick up tube to get the pan off, no way it would clear without pulling motor or dropping axle. I have another tube/pickup and oil pan now, just not so sure my cross tube will work, but hopefully get back to it tonight or tomorrow

It wasn't a real bad dent, that's why I was never that concerned about it...but with it being a rear sump industrial motor, it hangs pretty low in the pan, so it must have been enough to destroy it. Ill have to check the fitment on the new stuff tonight...hopefully I can screw it in with the limited room I have

Well I got confused and was looking at the crossover tube, so I didn't have to touch that so far, but I think I'm going to be in trouble when I go to change my pan to front sump....but besides all that...good thing I'm doing this job, as this is how I found the pickup laying in the oil pan...and it was not apart of the pickup tube anymore. I had a dent in my oil pan from sometime way back after I just rebuilt...guess I hit a bump too hard and the axle touched..but never knew this was how severe it was.

I'm having a brain fart...are the threads that are on the collar on the tube right hand threads or left? Not the fitting that screws into the block, but the fitting on the pickup tube itself. Trying to drop my pan and it doesn't want to budge, but maybe it's been so long I'm forgetting its left hand any help appreciated

I'm starting on a rear main seal and a new oil pan....I wish all I needed was a battery. LOL

Possibly you have a cell starting to break loose, connects sometimes and others it won't...sounds like it's time for a new one

I went power window and scraped the need for the original full window parts...it was a little frustrating at times, but now I couldn't imagine going back.

One can pushes the rod, the other lifts...your 251 lifts...the lobe will be different then the 230

From what I recall my 218 25" block too the same as the 251 shown above, but it was well over $200 here from the parts store, so I went to an electric fuel pump...took a few years to find one that will last awhile, but fingers crossed on my purolator pump.

You win....I'm stumped...only thing I can think is your intake valves are stuck...but that's far fetched...try some starting down the cylinder, not the carb and try it.

I think it's time to check your top dead centre position and find out if you have a timing chain that has skipped teeth...only thing I can think of, unless your starter is turning at a snails pace

Is it the pressure plate, or the shaft maybe in the bushing?? Lube all of that with some PB Blaster and let it soak

Rockauto shows under 51 truck with 230 lots of parts that fit either IAT or IAY distb, so just order those parts, no idea what's in the 55 distributor, so don't use it as a search.

If 12v spins faster, then the truck should start...you maybe have multiple issues, but your no start sounds a bit more like internal then electrical. Any chance it popped because your timing chain has jumped? It would still spark, but not at the right time of course. Hope you get it worked out, keep us posted.

Compression really shouldn't change with a 6v compared to 12v IMO, but regardless it sounds like an ignition issue if you have fuel and compression. Is the spark strong or look weak? Any issues with the distributor moving?