NiftyFifty

If you want a real slick trick, find one of those old scissor jacks that fold really low, I put one between the axle and the frame and wrenched it up, all the space you need and no wheels off or jack stands needed if you don't trust them. I actually had two in mine, but one would have done it I think..I pulled the second one out before reinstalling the pan and it was fine

No that's the exact distb, you just run a vacuum line to the typically plugged port on the carburetor base with a piece of brake line and a brass adapter and use a piece of rubber vacuum line where you hook on to the advance. The wiring was very simple, just a 10 ga power lead in and then run the wires to the distb from the coil. I went with the square body coil, just because if I have an issue, it's easier to find. All the replacement parts are for an 82-84 S10/S15 2.8L, but I think even more years fit from my days of owning an 87

If you have a non vacuum advance distributor, why not consider a distb from Langdons? I got mine, seems to work quite well, had it all installed in about an hour with wiring and mounting the new coil. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665978

You do require a fuse for that ignition, are you using a Pertronix kit or another? Depending on the size wire they call for the power feed will depend on the size.

If you add any new 12 volt accessories or plan to add a few, I advise putting in at least a small fuse block that takes the ATC fuses and adding from that point. Power it from the ignition switch in the on/run position and they you know those items are protected. I rewired my truck day one, and put everything through a fuse box , but I also eliminated the generator and voltage regulator as well when I went 12 volt .

Knocking possibly with too much timing, but not usually surging...sounds more like fuel or ??? Try a high speed run and pull the choke, if that helps it, too lean, gets worse...possibly too rich

Pic is fuzzy...what is that

I used it on the pan liberally and just a very thin layer between gasket and block..let it set up but leaked ...not sure why, but it doesn't play well with the cork I guess. Maybe I just got unlucky, but I stick to the aviation sealer now

He's asking about Marvel availability in Manitoba... Additives in oil can most definitely help when he's having the issues he is, and unless your doing something wrong, they can't hurt, only help.

The top has rope? I could be wrong, I thought it's either a 1 piece seal that cut and rolled in, or the two piece rubber seal with the steel backing plate? Mines the two piece...and top is pretty much impossible without massive disassembly

From experience, ultra black on an oil pan with cork gaskets can leak if your using it between the pan and gasket and the gasket and block....had to get a whole new gasket for my Monaco because it leaked right away

If you've never used it, I guess you can't know it's benefits...oil alone isn't going to do anything for intake carbon build up, or varnished and stuck rings. They sell it at Canadian tire and Walmart here in Manitoba...or at least the Brandon one does.

Get the Marvel Mystery oil and do the procedure I listed down the carb, clean those valves out and it might stop, but also put some in the crankcase and the Lucas additive if you have...if this engine sat for a long time, it could have some severe varnish and carbon build up..best to clean that out before running it too much

It's the one piece seal then? Are you missing the little rubbers that fit the main bearing block, or having issues with those?

I'm a big fan of aviation gasket maker: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/ works great for oil pans and no reason it won't work on the diff cover. I usually just use ultra black or blue of diff covers, no gaskets, but on the original style diff it may be a bit more necessary then on the Dana axles

I've read some of the fables in past...experience tells me modern oil is not always what the commercial says it is, and these old engines can use all the help we can give them...nobody is forcing anyone to buy anything, but I wouldn't run without it.

Use the Lucas with the zddp additive and your good to go

Can you explain how leaving those pieces un-trimmed on the pan ends could even remotely seal? Mine stuck out about 1 1/2 inches on each side, it would never seal, nor would I ever get the bolts in that way. Use aviation gasket makes or a similar brush on products on the pan and pan side gasket, and if you want on the block side gasket...for the two end pieces, you trim those to be the same height as the side gaskets installed and use ultra black or blue rtv silicone between the two gaskets, not a lot, just enough to seal the seam. Do not use the rtv on the whole gasket area...don't ask my why, but rtv does not deal properly when used between a gasket . I just did my pan last week, no issues. For cleaning out the engine, get it warmed up and drip Marvel Mystery Lube down the carb while you control the throttle to keep it running. Don't over flood it to start with and do it outside where you have lots of air...your going to get some pretty dirty exhaust while doing this. I do this for about 5 minutes, or until the exhaust smoke starts to come out cleaner, then I flood the engine out with the MML (don't hydrolock, just flood out) then let it site for a couple hours...start up, let it clean itself out and then I run a bit in every tank and a little in my oil.

I missed your member profile, so here in Canada we have the option of the Lucas or you can buy federal mogul engine assembly lube, it's in a litttle squirt bottle and has the same zddp additives. Central Canada...are you in Manitoba as well?

Detergent oil in an old possibly dirty engine can cause issues IMO, and I've never seen 15w40 in anything but diesel and 50 weight isn't all that easy to come by and might be a bit excessive. Go to a Tractor Supply store or something like that, usually buy 10litre jugs of 40 weight for a decent price. You can run anything you want in the air breather, most just run the same weight oil as the engine, the oil is just collecting the dust as the breather pulls in the air. Too thin couldn't possibly be an issue, but 10w30 and up will be just fine. Now the heated contention....I recommend a zddp additive in these old engines ,some people are happy running .99 cent junk oil...that's all a matter of choice and opinion, but you can't hurt your engine with a good oil and an additive...I'm sure you can with cheap oil. The additive I use is STP high mileage additive, it's in a blue bottle at Walmart for about $3.00 in the US...Canada doesn't carry it

Just run whatever you run in the engine is fine

15w40 is fine, it just has detergents in it, but in your case that might be an issue as it could break down the sludge you likely have and cause issues. Get yourself some straight 40 weight if they have it locally and it will be just fine for the spring to fall months..I wouldn't recommend running it in the winter tho.

No intake change to go to the two barrel that Langdon sells, just a bolt on adapter. the carb you have is a fairly simple rebuild, and parts are available. You will just need the brand and numbers off it for a correct kit. Sounds like your float is stuck and keeping the needle open, or the seat is toast.

Langdons Stovebolt can get you an Empi 32/36 two barrel carb and adapter to fit the stock intake, and one I think that will work with the stock linkage parts. I'm heading in the two barrel direction myself, but not till late this summer/fall once I have a place to build an intake

It's such a dramatic change, how could you replicate that amount of heat release once the hoods back on? He needs to correct the lack of cooling, not the heat stuck under the hood once it's already gotten too hot. Fix the problem, not the aftermath