Splitpi

Great information provided here. Greatly appreciate it. I am now torn on whether to use the Airtex as booster (always on) to the mechanical. Or the Carter / Airtex as stand alone without the mechanical. I am still thinking I should still run a pressure regulator (have a Holley 12-804), though a return line at the carb would definitely allow for better control of over pressure than just a mechanical regulator alone.... or a regulator with the return line (though I cannot find one with a return line and less than 4 psi).

All, Thank you for the follow up. I was torn between the Airtex E8902 and the Carter E84259. I have read also that the Carter info may be inaccurate and over stated.

I might be late to this. But for my 1940 Plymouth, I bought a replacement from Tanks, Inc. Nearly identical fit, just a slight angle difference on the filler neck from the original tank. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm

I was talking it over with a friend, I think the oil pressure switch may be a bit of an overkill and I plan to not use it. Inertia Switch is simply a safety thing. I do have a fuel pressure regulator that I can put in near the Carb, but I would like to not use it if possible. The need for several fuel filters does make sense and I was planning on one pre-pump. I have ordered the parts, so I'll set it up and see if the circuit works as intended. Another thing I read else where was to put a return line off of the carb and back into the tank. Basically install a T near the carb and put a fitting for the return that is brazed shut. Then drill a small hole like 1/16th through the brazing as a flow restrictor. Basically to release pressure on the carb input needle valve.

This is great info. Did you go with discs in rear? I messaged Scarebird, and they said they only do front kits. I would prefer to get 4 wheel Disc and remove the rear drums as well but I am not finding a kit.

Also, Attached is another version with a priming switch incase the truck has sat for a long period and the carb is dry. Is this overkill?

I have a 1940 Plymouth PT105. Same period motor (from a 52', P23 code 218ci ) and has the floor starter, 6V Positive Ground, BB1 Carb, etc... Lately, the truck is not running due to a host of fuel related issues and my slowness on working on it between work, family, and the Texas heat. I have replaced the fuel tank (which I had sealed about 7 years ago, but has come undone) due to corrosion with a "Tanks Inc 39DP-T" from Summit Racing. The new tank fits great, and I am now in the process of running all new fuel lines from the tank to the mechanical pump (which I replaced, but I don't have faith in it, could not prime, or was pushing too much pressure when primed, etc..). I am looking at switching to an electric fuel pump as part of adding in the new fuel lines. Using 5/16" Copper Nickel hard lines with double flair fittings for the fuel line. I'll also do another carb rebuild to make sure it is clean and put this filter pre-pump. Had a paper/plastic one between the mechanical pump and carb prior. I think the electric pump gives me better assurance that the fuel system is working up to the carb. This would completely remove the mechanical pump and I would put a block off plate on the motor. Parts: Carter P4259 Fuel Pump 20 Amp slow burn fuse & holder 6V Relay OS75 Oil Switch K&N 81-0300 Fuel Filter 5/16" Hardline and various fittings Inertia Switch Thoughts? Does this wiring look correct?