Eneto-55

I know it'd be hard to do in existing concrete, but maybe it would be a good idea to put a hidden anchor ring right in the floor, under a steel flap flush with the concrete. (I'm visualizing something like the flip out hammock hooks I've seen set into the walls in houses in Brazil, only heavier, of course.)

Wow. You're not kidding about severe deterioration.

Considering the suddenness of the change in braking ability, I wonder if a small particle of rust or something got in between the cup and the bleed back ring inside the MC. (It's been many years since I had one open, so I can't be more descriptive. The diagram Don posted should help in understand what I'm getting at. It might be what is called the Stop in the diagram.)

Beleza.

Back when we first got married (1983) we had a small 1-wheel trailer that we moved to Texas & back to Ohio with, pulling it behind an 80 Datsun. It had that same size wheel & tire. Yeah, they sing at highway speed.

Has any one ever used an ozone generator to remove odors? My father-in-law has rental apartments, and we have one that the renters kept their dog in (rules say no pets), and they used a bunch of those awlful automatic deoderant spray & electric deals to mask the odor, and the place reaks. (I just smell mostly the perfume smell, and my wife smells the other odors.) Anyway, I've read tha these ozone generators are the only hting that really takes out the bad odors, but I'd like to hear some experienced reviews from someone who has dealt with the type of odors you all're talking about here before I would spend the cahs on one.

My 46 had it in the channel, and I'm pretty sure that the 49 does too (I can't look, because both cars are 900 miles away from here). Maybe it is a difference based on where it was built. Unless the channel is formed differently on those that have it on the lid, maybe they got different styles of rubber from time to time, and that dictated where it was placed. It would be interesting to see profiles of original rubber from both types. I can see advantages to both choices.

If it would not destroy them to unroll them, I'd like to see some pictures of the original mats you have. I'm picturing a shaped mat with grooves (or ridges, looking at the other way) about 1/2" apart, and shaped like half rounds. (The grooves. I'm thinking tha tthe peaks or ridges were sort of pointed - is that accurate at all?) Then there was a border about maybe 3/4" wide all around the edges. I might be thinking of the floor mat that was in the 53 DeSoto my folks had, but that was a lot of years ago, and I don't know if it is still in the car (my younger brother has it). Some basic dimentions would be helpful, too. Am I correct in remembering that the rear floor board area had carpet, and the front had the rubber mat? (Or was there a difference between the DeLuxe & the Special DeLuxe?)

Check out the Resources tab on the forum munu bar. Specifically, http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html (As you'll see, the front has 2 cyl, & the rear has a single cyl.) I have heard others talk about the replacement cyl available now as being made in China of poor quality steel, so it might be worth your time to tear down the brakes and inspect the cyl walls for pits. If the system is still working now, they may be in good shape yet, and all you need to do is run a hone in them a bit to clean them up before installing the repair kits. Even if they are pitted, if you know that you want to keep the stock brakes, then it might be worthwhile to have them sleeved.

I think that the main convenience is for the manufacturer, not the end user. There is no "drying time" - as soon as the parts are cool enough to handle, they can be taken off the line & packaged. The appeal to the "consumer" is hyped up, because very few of the "little guys" can afford to do it in their own garage or shop. Sure, it's hard paint, but my own opinion is that the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. I was recently back in the shop where I used to work (doing powder coating), and I overheard one of the managers tell a customer (who was wanting an outdoor railing built) that "steel will always eventually rust", that she should strongly consider aluminum. But powdercoating aluminum is tricky business, and it too will corrode when it is exposed, just not so obviously.

I worked in powder coating for a few years, and I agree with what Greg says above. I would favor a good primer & top coat. While I was wotking there, I powder coated a hitch I had made for my Chrysler T & C. The paint bubbled & then came off in huge flakes, exposing major rust underneath. It wasn't sand blasted before painting, & I know that would have helped, but powder doesn't flow easily into corners, so that's usually where you will see the first rust, unless it is chipped someplace.

My brother snapped the axle in my Dad's 1953 Dodge PU, and that was with the original flathead. I don't know what he was doing, but it wasn't the only axle he broke, either. (The other was a non-MoPar.)

I would venture to guess that all of the originals were securely bonded/vulcanized. If it were not bonded on at least one surface, what whould keep it from working its way out? And if one side must be bonded, then they would not have neglected to bond both surfaces. I should have bought a new one as soon as I saw them available, because back when I put the engine back in my car (1981 or early 1982) I just fit it back together in place, because I couldn't find one available anywhere. (It had separated. The car has sat unfinished ever since, so I've never run it yet.) That front engine mount is also more than just "sheet metal". It is stamped steel, yes, so it IS made of "sheet steel", but heavier than what is commonly known as sheet metal.

I had a 72 Dodge Coronet that had a buzzer in it that drove me crazy. (I think it was for the seat belt, not sure anymore.) So I pulled the buzzer out. Some months later it was coming time for the yearly safety inspection, and the horn is a required piece of equipment to get a pass on the inspection. It didn't work. I finally pulled the steering wheel off, and when I followed the wires down the column, I ened up at a plug with nothing on it. A light came on in my noggin, and I got the buzzer out of the glove box and put it back on. Now I had both the buzz and the horn again. Now-a-days a person probably couldn't go long enough w/o needing the horn that you could forget about removing the buzzer (which was also a relay), but back in those days, and there in Oklahoma, we hardly ever needed a horn.

Someone already mentioned the Journey, Ours is a 2009 model, first year for them. I think it is built on the same platform as the Stratus, if I recall correctly. It also has the battery ahead of the left front wheel. There is no way to check the battery fluid level w/o completely removing it. No big deal on older cars, but all that electronic junk resets. I never thought about it when we bought it - not till it went bad, and I had to change it out. I was not blessed. (I'm pretty sure it was the original battery - 6 years later!)

You know, come to think of it, he didn't graduate. I think he dropped out after our Junior year. (I confess. I didn't even make it to my 40th HS reunion, and I've never seen that guy before.)

That isn't actually a picture of Abraham Lincoln. I went to HS with that guy. His name is Stephen J. Robertson. That picture was taken about 2 years ago, at our 40th high school reunion.

For many years coins from the Philidelphia mint ('P') were unmarked (so some said they were 'plain'). ('D' is Denver, and 'S' is San Francisco.)

Will do.

I always do every other one like others have already said, except sometimes I go counter clockwise. Just which ever way I get started.

Well, I know what you're talking about, anyway! We couldn't get kiln-dried wood in Brazil, so we always had to sticker it. The worst I ever had was a load of Brazil nut wood. I had ordered "any good hard wood that won't warp of shrink a lot", and they gave me the variety that warps the most, and also shrinks the most. Harvesting Brazil Nut wood was prohibited at that time, so the bill of leyding named a different species. I was stuck with it, and it was very wet. I stickered it every few feet for a few days, and then started running it through the planer. Once it was planed I moved the sticks down to about every foot, making them as narrow as I could. After I planed & stacked the last board, I piled a bunch of other hardwoods on top of it, and left it. I had no idea what I'd ever use it for. (I had ordered some more wood in the mean time, this time, if I remember correctly, supervising the loading, so they wouldn't do it to me again.) I ended up leaving it there for maybe around 3 or 4 years. By then it was totally dry, and the original 12" width was down to around 10" on most of the boards. But it was straight. All that weight & time had not allowed it to warp, and I ended up using it for siding on a house addition. So making the stickers as narrow as possible would be my only suggestion to avoid the marking issue. Maybe powerwashing before stickering it would remove enough of the sap from the surface that it might show less, but the end color might not be the same, either.

After I saw the first pictures, I was wondering what the size of that trailer is. 6 x 12 - that's a big load. I've been looking for a smaller dump trailer, like about just 4 x 8, but I don't think anyone makes one that size. (5 x 10 is about as small as I've seen.) Your brake controller - I know that your PU is a Ford, but was there a connector already there, or did you need to run a wire from the battery?

There goes the neighborhood.

I do admit that cruise control is a nice feature, at least on long trips. (Our current family car, a 2009 Dodge Journey, does not have it.) Back in around 1981 or so I saved one off of an Olds that was going to be scrapped, and tried to adapt it to my 72 Coronet, but all of my attempts at making the correct type of end on a piece of speedometer cable failed. Maybe I could have bought one, but I was too cheap for that, and it may not have been available, sinc eI was adapting the Olds part to the MoPar. (Back then the cruise control worked off of the speedometer cable, and locked in at a certain speed by means of an electro-magnet & a governor. That controlled a vacuum valve that pulled or released a diaphram connected to your throttle linkage. I don't know how they work now, but are probably electronic, right?) Transistor radios are nice too, since you can listen to them with the engine off w/o running the battery down right away. But electric windows, door locks, automatic transmissions, tire pressure alerts, etc, I can do without.

Modern cars don't either, in my opinion. (Just my opinion, of course, but I wish at least pickup were still just basic work vehicles. Or Jeeps.)