Merle Coggins

It was mentioned earlier to check your timing, but the focus seems to be on your cooling system. I will say it again... Check your ignition timing and points gap/dwell. If the timing is off it will cause the engine to run hotter. This could explain the slow temperature rise over time. Especially if you are running a points ignition. As the points wear the timing will change.

From under the hood, and/or under the truck, disconnect the brake line and remove the bolts that hold the M/C to the bell housing. It'll come right off. No need to mess with the pedals unless you need to work with the push rod.

I've thought about doing that. Mine was centered good until I did the disc brake conversion. Now it's off a little.

Drag link ends are not replaceable. You must replace the drag link as a complete unit. Only the tie rod ends are replaceable.

When I tore my seized engine down I ended up pulling the crank out with the Fluid Drive still attached. Then I could get to all of the nuts to remove it from the crank. It's a bit heavy that way, but I had an overhead crane. Bob's way works too, pulling the bell housing. By the way... what part of Wisconsin are you in?

Nothing like assembling freshly machined engine components. Enjoy...

Just to make you mad, Don. It's his truck. Why should you care how he builds it?

The bottom of the back cushion has to be pulled forward first to unhook the bottom latch, then lift it up and off. Easier with 2 people, but doable alone. It also helps if the seat isn't all the way back against the back of the cab.

GPH would be totally dependent on engine RPM. A pump is typically rated by it's displacement. For a rotary pump it would be something like cc/rev. A piston, or diaphragm pump, like the fuel pump, would be rated for oz/stroke, or cc/stroke.

The u-joints changed mid way through 1950, so an early '50 3 speed column shift should be the same as a '48-'49 floor shift. But a later '50 thru '53 3 speed would likely have a different u-joint.

They are a good vender. Also look at Roberts robertsmotorparts.com and Bernbaum oldmoparts.com. There's also Fetchup oldpickupparts.com Haven't got anything from them, but it looks like they have several items. Also, don't forget your local Napa, or other parts stores for many mechanical parts. Or Rock Auto, if you want to shop online.

Awesome truck, and more awesome that it has family history. The smoke may clear up once you can get everything up to operating temp. Change he oil, get some fresh gas into it, make sure it has coolant/water, and let it run to full operating temp, and then run some more to get the exhaust system heated up. Most of the smoke is likely years of condensation, dust, rust, and etc burning off. On your oil filter... it was quite common back then to not have a filter. They were often dealer installed options. If you keep your eyes open you can find them at swap meets or on eBay. Just be sure you can identify the brand to know which filter element to use. My truck didn't have one when I got it. I found one on eBay. After passing on a few that went for more $$ than I wanted to spend I found one at a bargain price and bought it. They're out there.

Like Ed said... I'd bet on '48 or '49 based on the stainless grill bars. If it was a '50 those would be an option. The bumper itself is stock, but the "grill guard" attached above it is aftermarket, or home built.

You may need to use the complete transmission from the donor column shift truck. I don't have personal experience, but I've heard that the top covers don't swap over as one might expect. If they do I'd be interested to know that. This is a question that comes up from time to time here, but I've never seen anyone successfully change out a top cover to switch from column shift to floor shift, or vice verse.

Maybe they loaded his trailer wrong and his first drop was for the front car. He's about to back up and finish the offloading process.

From what I've seen and learned over the years about filters, most paper fiber filters flow oil from the outside-in to use the more open side of the paper pleats. So, if your canister is marked IN at the upper side port that would indicate that it uses a paper fiber pleated filter. I believe there were a couple different ones used depending on size and filter manufacturer. I don't have, nor have I studied, this type of filter canister. My filter, and some others, that use the sock type filter insert work from Inside-out. I've studied my Deluxe Model JC Filter, with markings IN at the bottom center, and OUT at the upper side. It is clearly stamped on the cover to use a JC filter cartridge. The Deluxe JC crosses to Napa's 1011, Wix 51011, or Baldwin JC405. (I prefer the Baldwin cartridge due to a better fit in my experience, as I've stated on this forum several times.) The center tube, where the IN port feeds, has a couple of holes to distribute oil into the center of the filter element. The oil will then migrate through the filter media and pool in the top, above the perforated dome. The OUT port is above this perforated dome so that when the oil reaches that level, or above, it will flow out and back to the sump. From that I've seen, this is the "Heavy Duty" filter offered through Mopar, or aftermarket suppliers. I found it on eBay. My truck didn't have an oil filter when I got it. Here you can see that the upper port is plumbed to the bottom, drain, port on the block

It depends on the filter design. Some fill near the top and flow out the bottom. Some fill from the center, bottom port, and return near the top. Mine is clearly marked IN at the bottom and OUT at the upper port.

I have a lot of that type of brake line on my truck. You can buy it at Napa in various lengths.

Vacuum leak won't make soapy water bubble, it'll suck it in. That trick only works on pressurized lines.

If the needle is pegging to the full side more voltage will only make it worse. We need to look at Ohm's Law. Voltage = Amperage X Resistance (V = I X R) The gauge moves based on how much amperage flows through the electromagnet inside. More amperage = higher level reading. If the sender is 10 Ohms at full and 70 Ohms at empty, let's do the math. 6 volts / 10 Ohms = 0.6 Amps. 6 Volts / 70 Ohms = 0.086 Amps. 12 volts / 10 Ohms = 1.2 Amps. 12 Volts / 70 Ohms = 0.19 Amps. So, if your gauge is pegging to the full side when the tank is much less than full, you need more resistance in the circuit, or lower voltage.

I don't know what it would have been originally. I've seen 6V, 12V, and 24V stuff listed for earlier Power Wagons and M37's. Either way, if the generator has been rebuilt by a reputable company, and it still won't charge the battery, I would suspect a faulty regulator or a disconnect in the main power wire. Is there 12 volts at the B or BATT terminal on the regulator? Is there 12 volts at the Armature terminal at the generator? Current from the battery must go through the Ammeter to the Voltage Regulator. When the Generator begins to output current the Circuit Breaker contacts on the Regulator close and connect the battery to the generator. Merle

That wouldn't be possible as they were still building the B-2's in late 1950, as evidence by my B-2-C that was built in December of '50. The B-3's went into production in early 1951. I would agree that it does appear to be a B-3-B

I am considering going to that one. I've missed the last few due to distance, and other things.

The Snickers was the bait pile... Nice one... Gonna need a big wall for that mount.

Cool... and Welcome to our "little" family. Did someone stuff a different fuel tank behind the seat? It looks like a fuel filler neck coming out well above where the original fuel neck hole is.