Merle Coggins

Search the truck side of the forum. A few guys have adapted other master cylinders and I hadn't heard of the angle being an issue. Maybe it depends on the donor M/C

Looks like she took quite a beating. It could have been much worse. Many weren't as lucky.

I also had some rags and lacquer thinner to clean up the rest.

I sealed mine after the fact. Still a little messy, but not too bad. Do your installation with soapy water as lubricant. Then pull back the rubber lip and squeeze the sealant in between the rubber and the pinch weld. Don't use silicone. It's not good for that application. I used a urethane caulk on mine. I also had to get some down between the rubber and the glass too, to stop all of the leakage.

Love riding in that area. I used to get down to Asheville once or twice per year. I'd ride my bike down there whenever I could and take a couple extra days to go riding around the area.

You would want to use a radiator pressure tester. You may be able to borrow one at your local parts store, if they do "loan-a-tool". I know several advertise that around here. It will have an adapter that would replace your radiator cap, and then you pump it up to add pressure. Your car radiator may have a permanent vent at the top of the radiator. You may need to cap off the vent too. Don't put too much pressure into it. It is meant to be a pressureless system. I wouldn't go above 2 or 3 psi. That should be just enough to exaggerate any leaks. If no water drips out of the oil pan drain you're good to go. If it does, then tear it down and investigate.

Before I did anything major I'd probably get a correct set of head bolts and reinstall the head with a new gasket, being sure to seal the threads. Then fill it up with water and drain the oil. Leave the oil drain plug out. Pressurize the cooling system with 2 or 3 psi and watch for water at the oil drain.

It appears to have the DPCD (Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, DeSoto) logo, so I would say it is likely a Mopar axle.

You posted this on the truck forum. You may get a better reply if it is moved to the car side. However, I don't believe you should have to remove the bellhousing to access the rear main seal, but you may need to remove the FD itself to access the upper half of the rear dust seal. Isn't the oil seal in the rear main bearing cap? So you would need to drop the oil pan to access that.

I don't believe you'll be able to convert that trans to a floor shift unit. If that's what you want, find a 3 speed trans from a '49 or earlier truck. It would nearly be a direct swap. I can't tell by the picture if it has Fluid Drive. Are there badges on the hood? If it does have FD then your options are limited...

I also did a video several years ago. I make the adjustments with the engine running too. Check and adjust as I go. It helps to have good gloves. The next time I do them I may add a little extra insulation over my knuckles. They get hot fast.

Look like a 4 speed to me.

Made a new Pilot-House friend today. Kris is new on the forum, but not new to Pilot-House trucks. I'll let him tell the story when he's ready. As he was reading and researching the forum he saw that I lived nearby (Only a few miles away) and contacted me via PM. I got the Ol' Dodge out today and went over to meet him and check out his B-1-D-116 Express. It's the first 116" 1 ton truck I've seen. They all seem to be 126" versions. Anyway, we had a good talk, cruised around in my truck a bit and had lunch at a local drive-in burger joint. All in all a great way to spend the day. Sorry, no pictures. Too busy talking about trucks to get the camera out. It's nice having other Dodge trucks guys so close. Now I know of 3 in the Fox Cities (Appleton) area. Mine, Ted's and now Kris'. With Todd B only about 45 minutes away, and Ed (from the FB page) about 30 min drive out of town, maybe it's time to arrange another Pilot-House party/cook-out. There's got to be others in the vicinity...

Well then, put the car axle under the truck and use a couple of 1" wheel spacers regain the original track width.

It's not a difficult swap. Finding the diff will probably be the hardest part. Scour the bone yards and craigslist and I'm sure you'll find one.

I don't know. I never saw the car. A former forum member out in California was searching for a 4.10 diff to use in his Suburban with an overdrive trans. He liked to tow a boat or camper with it and wanted the lower gear ratio. He bought the axle and pulled the diff to find out it had 3.73 gears. He happened to post his disappointing tail on the forum and I sent him a message about a possible swap. I had a spare 4.10 diff from a parts truck . We swapped pictures. Then I pulled off the truck input flange and shipped it to him. In return he shipped his 3.73 diff back to me. Cost us shipping only and we both got what we wanted. Merle

Assuming the '39's used a similar axle housing a car differential should fit. I have a 3.73 diff out of a '50 Plymouth in my truck. I kind of stumbled into it, so I can't tell you how exactly how to search for one.

You can probably take the 3.37 differential out of the car axle and swap it into your truck axle. The only thing to watch for is the spline count on the axle shafts. I have a '50 Plymouth 3.73 diff in my B2C truck axle.

It sounds like the pressure isn't fully bleeding out when the pedal is released. It could be a pedal free play adjustment, not allowing the piston to fully return. Or it could be a plugged return port in the M/C not allowing the fluid to get back into the reservoir.

Did you get the cab forward Jeep too? I'm thinking a 318 would be an easier upgrade than a 4BT Cummins, with more performance to boot. As Reg stated, it appears to be a 1 ton chassis based on the front wheels. I don't believe it would be a Dana axle. I believe Dodge made their own axles back then. But I'm sure you could find a Dana that would fit and give you more modern brakes, etc.

Didn't you tell me he's retired, or semi-retired now? Loosing another good shop for old engines.

It doesn't look like a Mopar flathead to me. Maybe a Ford or International I6 engine?

OK. I kind of understand now. I did find a section in my shop manual on them, but it didn't have much more than how to adjust if needed. It did mention that the manifold vacuum had to be right before any adjustments. Seeing Fernando's pictures above, there was no butterfly valve. So I was even more confused as to how it could limit the speed. I'm guessing the plate is missing on Fernando's governor.

Does anyone have information on how these governors function? Are they speed limiting? I don't see them being able to maintain a constant speed as there is no feedback linkage. I've been seeing several of them lately here on the forum, but I don't ever recall seeing/reading what their purpose is, or how they work exactly.

That's my thought too. Something is keeping them from dropping fully into the bores. Most likely a varnish/sludge buildup. Push them back up and clean them up a bit so that they can drop out of the way. You could probably use some carb cleaner spray to break down the buildup layer. And yes, that one appears to be broken.