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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Merle Coggins
    The 3 speed transmissions prior to the B2 series were a standard floor shift, so it would have needed a similar seal
  2. Merle Coggins
    That’s probably for a 3 speed. Yours looks like a 4 speed. I had some thick chunks of foam that I used to cut my own. Similar to that, but sized for my trans.
  3. Merle Coggins
    Interesting upper water neck and carburetor/intake pipe. I wonder what it’s intended application was.
  4. Merle Coggins
    As Tim states, it's a heat soak issue. Fuel expands in the float bowl and tends to flood the intake. I find that holding stepping on the throttle pedal slightly while cranking helps get the Ol' Boy started up after short rest periods. This introduces more air to help lean out the over rich (flooded) condition. In my truck, with a stomp starter, I've mastered the trick of pressing the starter pedal with my tow while giving a little throttle with my heal. It always fires up that way within a few crank revolutions. Without the throttle input you could crank the battery dead before it'd start.
  5. Merle Coggins
    I've seen single wheel motorcycle trailers, but it doesn't seem to make sense to me.
  6. Merle Coggins
    ? So you truly kept our military running with bubble gum and zip ties... Good story. And thank you for your service.
  7. Merle Coggins
    First thing I would do is check the backlash of the gears. O don’t have the spec handy, but there should be a small amount of movement of each gear before it contacts, and moves, the other gear. When doing this, you should be able to determine if the pinion bearings are stiff, or if it’s the diff carrier bearings (making the ring gear hard to turn). Or maybe there’s zero backlash causing the tightness. After these initial checks you should be able to determine where the problem lies. Either way it may require a disassembly/ reassembly to correct the setup.
  8. Merle Coggins
    I believe it’s the accelerator pump spring that wants to open up the throttle plate when no linkage is attached. Once you have the linkage connected, with a return spring, then they should rest against the idle stop screw.
  9. Merle Coggins
    Isn’t a WD a 1 ton truck? If so, you’ll probably want to address the front end some too to get matching wheel hubs. Otherwise you’ll have mis-matched wheels front to rear.
  10. Merle Coggins
    218 and 230 blocks are virtually the same. The difference is in the stroke length. So you have to measure the piston stroke to determine the displacement.
  11. Merle Coggins
    Your hole over #6 is probably plugged with carbon and/or rust. You can usually poke around in there a bit and get it opened up. Try a drill bit, by hand, or pick away at it with an awl. On your pulley marks, I recommend only marking/highlighting the TDC mark and possibly the one where you want to set your timing. It’ll make it easier to see what you want with the timing light.
  12. Merle Coggins
    Sounds like your shocks are too short. They should be in the middle of their stroke when the springs are supporting the weight of the truck.
  13. Merle Coggins
    The other side of the coin.
  14. Merle Coggins
    Merry Christmas, a day late. We’ve had a busy week with my wife’s side of the family. Today we took a drive down to Indy to visit my family. I did get a nice little gift from my lovely wife. It’s a coin, slightly larger than a quarter that she found on eBay last year and put away for Christmas. It was put away so well that she forgot about it. Then while doing some cleaning recently she came across it again, so I got it this Christmas.
  15. Merle Coggins
    Yup, either a small H-bar puller as shown, or a harmonic balancer puller will work. Just a word of caution... Don’t thread your attachment bolts in too far. It’s rather easy to screw them back against the front cover and add a couple of extra dimples. It may just damage the seal, but could also do damage to the cover.
  16. Merle Coggins
    I have a Rusty Hope conversion on my 3/4 ton truck. I’m using 5 X 4.5” to 5 X 5” adapters so I could use my stock 15” wheels. Been working great for over 10 years.
  17. Merle Coggins
    Raking leaves in December... How ‘bout that... my December outdoor chores usually involve a shovel, or snow blower. ?
  18. Merle Coggins
    The purpose of the bypass circuit is to ensure that there is always a small amount of coolant flow within the block for even heat build up, and to get the coolant flowing past the thermostat so that it can sense the actual temperature.
  19. Merle Coggins
    The bump indicates that you have an internal bypass head, and assuming that the block matches, your engine is equipped with an internal thermostat bypass circuit. As such your thermostat and housing are correct.
  20. Merle Coggins
    Are you sure it’s not an Internal Bypass engine? Is there a small bump on the front of the head, just behind the water pump?
  21. Merle Coggins
    Yup... I had it backwards. My memory wasn't as good as I though it was. I also looked at a photo of my truck, from back when, and see that #1, #2, and #4 have the long bolts . #3 is the floater.
  22. Merle Coggins
    Short one goes at the rear, like you have it. There are only 6 long bolts that attach the bed to the frame. They go through the front, third, and rear cross members. The second one is only attached to the bed and floats above the frame. I suppose there could be a rubber pad underneath it, but it doesn't get attached to the frame.
  23. Merle Coggins
    Yup... Painted with a pin stripe was standard. Polished stainless was an option.
  24. Merle Coggins
    I heard that was the reason to switch from stainless grill bars to painted steel grill bars in ‘50, on the B2 models. Stainless bars could still be an option upgrade.
  25. Merle Coggins
    Here’s another one for you...
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