Don Jordan

I hate to admit this but I quit. Just couldn't figure it out so I took the overcenter spring out and just put in a straight spring. Hooked it on the bracket and the turnbuckle. I know it's not right but it works. I've got so much other stuff to do I can't spend any more time with this silly spring.

This thread is moving fast so I'm a little behind here. Regarding the Fs - If you can't find the six try reading from the back to front and just look for the letters. As an English teacher I used that many times with my classes. I've got others. A ship can have a boat aboard but a boat can't have a ship. How about the difference between a rifle and a gun. A motor and an engine.

I must be having a bad karma day. From the selections at the top if I click on Home or Forum it will take me there. If I click on Resources or References nothing happens. I'm going out now to try to adjust the rod (6-24-1). I appreciate your patience.

That is one thing I haven't adjusted yet - the rod to the fork to the throw out bearing. That's next. Because it's a new clutch I screwed it all the way in. I went to the PDF file and copied it and it looks just how I have it. The spring goes up and curves to the left. The picture is out of the service manual. I'll keep trying.

I feel very ignorant but I can not find the "downloads page". I will keep trying. Thank you.

I truly hate to beat this into the ground but I'm just not getting it. I've done this with my 48 without a problem. The 47 has fought me the whole way. I can not figure out how to adjust the pedal. I've got the spring just like I saw in the picture. The pedal will go to the floor and not come back up. I know this is going to be something silly and stupid but I just can't figure it out. It was hard taking pictures under the car. I couldn't get back far enough. This is the spring but it just doesn't seem right.

I do understand now - it was a shock at the time.

I hate to claim ignorance here but I'm afraid I didn't take good notes. Here's what I have written from October: I had the car valued at $15,000 - they would pay only 70% to have it fixed. The salvage value was $2600 and they paid me $12,400 and that's what I paid the body shop. While I guess I ended up paying $2600 out of the $15,000 I never did fill out any paper work for the title. I guess I'll have to wait and see what happens when the tags come due. The whole thing was complicated with a lot of e-mailing back and forth. Again I found the agent at Hagerty very helpful and I made it through with my car. To reiterate, I'm not sure the status of the title. I hope this helps. The bottom line is don't be stupid and wreck your car. Since it was my fault I'm glad they paid anything.

My very first car was a 1950 Buick Special - straight 8. Given enough time it would do 100. Of course you had to give it the same amount of time to get to zero. My last straight 8 was a 53 Packard. Also a smooth running car.

These are great pictures. Takes me back to another time. One quick observation: looking at all the cars I didn't see one Japanese car.

I freely admit - I am a puss. I am 3rd generation California. I have never been in zero°. I can't even imagine it. I never even saw snow until I was in High School. We drove the 200 miles to Tahoe, skied, came home. My hands just can't handle cold. My fingers go numb and I can't feel. My hats off to you guys who not only live in the cold but go outside in it. But I will tell you when it's 110° outside you will never hear me complain.

I can't believe there would be two of us with the same problem so I am going to assume you're talking about me. Here's what happened: First I have no problems with Hagerty. I was treated well and I believe fairly. I smashed my own car. I felt so guilty I almost didn't report it. I didn't think it would cost so much to repair. I was blindsided by the body shop. I took the car in and I don't remember the exact number but they wanted about $20,000 to fix the car. My insurance agent said they couldn't cover that and would have to total the car. I said I couldn't do that. He said they would pay $13,000. I went back to the body shop and dickered with them. I went and bought a new fender and door. Got the stainless repaired. Interestingly they dropped the price to $12,400. Hagerty sent me a check and I paid for the work. They did an incredible job. Hagerty told me they would have to total the car but I'm not sure what that means. They didn't send me any paper work - I still have the pink slip. I don't know what's going to happen. People have said it will affect the selling of the car but I never plan on selling it so it's moot. I paid $100 a year and put the value at $20,000. I could have put a higher value on the car but I wasn't planning on screwing it up. It was a lesson learned. If it had been my daily driver (Mini Cooper) I wouldn't have cared but I've got a lot of emotion tied up in the Plymouth.

I hate to sound like a whiner but it is so cold outside. I think I'm going to go out and take pictures then come into the warm house and try to compare them with the exploded view. I can't really complain because the east coast is a blizzard. But I live in the dessert where snow is a novelty. My car is mostly outside. Thank you for the help with the pdf - I will get 'er done.

Don, Thank you, d-

I tried to download some pictures but they were too big so I will try again.

If you have over 10,000 posts then this is not for you. This is just for the regular Plymouth guys - not the gods. It is sometimes annoying to either ask a question or make a comment only to be put down with a snide rebuke. It takes some of the fun out of this experience. So here's the story: Some of you may be able to relate to this, "It ran when I shut it off!" I removed the engine and took it to a machine shop and had it completely rebuilt. Then I put it back it. I learned a valuable lesson about taking enough pictures. You know that "little bracket" that is so obvious you'd never forget where it goes - some of us forget. The engine is back in. I could not get it to start. (I'm sure all the pros here would have it humming - not me) So I did all the basic stuff: points, plugs, rotor, cap, cond, wires. Would not start. No spark. I don't mean to drag this on so I'll just tell you: I was one wire off on the dist cap. All back together but I didn't feel the 6v was turning it fast enough. I thought maybe because the engine is new and tight. I'm sure some of the purists will frown on this but I took a 12v batt hooked it to the starter. It turned over like a stock car in Daytona. It was running strong. Oil pressure in the 40s, amps charging, temp 165°. It was warmed up, I hooked the 6v back up - nothing. it just would not spin. It turned like molasses. There was just one more thing to do. (here is where I share my experience with those who may not know) I bought a new grounding strap, new batt cables. I got the biggest the part store had 01. The batt ground is fastened on the block on the thermostat cover. I took the bolt out and water gushed out. I made a quick switch, got the bolt back on and all was good. With the new cables the engine cranked 3 times as fast. But it would not start. I never knew this - my neighbor just looked at me and rolled his eyes the way my father used to do when I screwed up, there was water on the head in the recess where the plugs go. He said it was shorting it out. I blew it out with an air hose and it fires right up. Strong and beefy sounding (of course I'm running a straight pipe for now.) Now that is done all I have left is adjusting the clutch. I have an exploded view but I am lacking in spacial relations and I'm having trouble translating it to practical application. The pedal is out, when pushed in it stays until you pull it out. Sounds like a spring. Again I am sorry I didn't take more pictures. I didn't mean to go on and on - it's just that it was such a simple thing I thought I'd share.

I guess I must be the only one but I just leave a little early and stay at 55. The engine sounds comfortable and I'm more relaxed. If I do 55 in my pickup people pass me and wave a middle finger. When I do 55 in the Plymouth people drive by and wave a thumbs up. I go every year from LA to Sacramento for the State Fair. Then go down to the Bay Area. It's about 1,000 miles. It takes just a little longer but I get to enjoy the scenery. I can go 70 down hill in neutral - letting the engine cool. How do you tell what gears you have in the rear end? Are they marked somewhere?

Two things: do you have to be a member of POC? Do you have more information about where? If you plan on going through Palmdale I might like to tag along since my 2 door should be up and running by then. And there is safety in numbers.

Little bit of bondo, yellow rattle can and it's good as new.

This is a silly question but what does it mean below my name where it says how many posts I've made and says 0 Warnings. Is that a good thing? I haven't seen it on other members post. Just curious.

I met a guy the other day that works at the studios in Hollywood. He works on "Picture cars". I told him I had a 48 Plymouth and asked about the process for renting out my car to the movies. He said "DON'T DO IT!" He said movie people have no respect for old cars. He's seen them get scratched and dented. I would like to give it a try but I think I'll take his word for it rather than learn the hard way.

Them was the days. No mass shootings. No gratuitous violence. Remember "Gone With the Wind" and people were complaining about the word 'damn' being used. We've come a long way - I'm not sure it is all good. But I guess you gotta play the cards you're dealt.

Can't argue that it was probably 2 horse power.

I live in the Lancaster/Palmdale area. I've gone the 400 miles to Sacramento for the state fair. When I go to Fresno (to the greatest junk yard around) I go through Bakersfield so I don't have to go down the grapevine. If you get something going let me know - I'm up for a meeting.

I was wondering how to change my password. My old one didn't work and the new one I got is 15 characters long. I know it's probably easy I'm just not finding it. thanks