Dodgeb4ya

Don't know why not, Just be careful of sparks! Bob

Vacumn can looks to be off a 70's 80's Ford. Now for the awesome part----------------- The other item is- well hmmmm, how about a windshield washer pump Part # 1241068 for 1946-8 MoPar cars. Probably worth $30,000! Well maybe not but a nice find! I like it! Bob

I use a Fluke "88" automotive meter. USA made- NOT CHINESE---It has both a smoothing feature and an analog vertical bar graph pointer scale for "flickering" situations like when checking oxygen sensors with a rapid voltage swing from.100 to.800 volts ect.. Shown are both voltage readings on my 1952 Plym W/a post to cable reading of 3.86V-- after making sure the clock rewound and all the lights ect. were off. And 2nd reading of battery standing direct voltage. Bob

The car can only roll away on you in gear with OD handle pushed in! OD handle really should always be pulled out to lock out the free wheeling part of the trans when parking the car at the end of a trip. The car will not roll away if this is done when left in 1st or reverse. Should still always use the E-brake. Bob

At only $90.00 -I'd be wary for a really nice NOS or NORS from Andy. That's quite a complicated piece of moulded rubber! A picture of a spare for my cars-these are really hard to find with good rubber. Bob

Here is about the same I was thinking on a 42 DeSoto but has a 90 at one end. Looks like the location of the bracket/brace has been found! Bob

I am pretty sure 42-8 Dodge/Chrysler and DeSoto are the same column rubber seal part. Bob

Steering column support-backside of dash to cowl? Front fender lower rear support?

The "Piston Type" cylinder assembly is for the late 1942 Chrysler/DeSoto "Under-Drive" transmissions. Autolite Part# VP4001 Bob

The Chrysler 8 cyl. manifolds are weldable depending on where the repair needs to be done. If the main oval vertical center section is cracked bad-don't weld it. If it's borken on one the end wings- go for it. Both intake and exhaust manifolds will need to b machined together after the welding to get the block surface flat and-also after welding the tolerance for misalignment of the manifold mounting holes is very exact. The welder needs to have the block/and or car while doing the repairs. Also the 2 end pieces are next to impossible to remove from the center section , "Mitchell's" has been trying to sell one on Ebay for nearly a year now. They are a tapered press fit and corrosion prevents easy removal of the 2 ends. Best bet is to find a good used one IMO. Bob Bob

I don't think Frank Mitchell accepts anything but his reasonable full price. Bob

Here are pictures of this hard to find 8 cyl.manifold. They don't repair easily. They are long and delicate. I've replaced several of these over the years for myself and other people's cars. They crack because of thick and thin sections and stress- improperly assembled exhaust pipes ect. I keep a couple extras for my 8 cylinder chryslers. I have one now thats ticking. Go to the "Postwar" 46-8 Chrysler site and post questions. Last week a guy in the same situation just got an exhaust manifold from a member! Talk about luck! Bob

My washer measurements were from an original MoPar rear axle/drum washer . You need only one washer! You should torque the nut to 175-200 ft. lbs and then turn the nut tighter if necessary to get the slots in the nut to line up with the axle shaft hole for the cotter pin. The washer is also a Flat hardened steel washer- yours looks like softer steel. It will work-but.... Any washer that is fairly close to the original will work! A Torque wrench is nice to use if you have no experience tightening this nut, The reason you are having trouble is you don't know by feel how tight to tighten the nut. It's to be tightened really tight! But if you are not a really really old worn out seasoned old mechanic like myself you don't know far to tighten the nut by feel- you need to do it by the book! Bob

Lights in action!

Green one is for turn signals-red one is high beam. Bob

1952 plymouth's were all factory stainless-51's were diecast and tied into the rocker moulding. 52's did not tie in to the rocker moulding. Western Auto suppied cheap aftermarket stainless rocker mouldings and stone guards. Bob

The flathead 6 oil pump cover uses a O-ring that has a square cross section. Use only that style of oil pump cover seal. Oil pump end cover to rotor clearance IS CRITICAL- and maximum clearance is .004". This is all shown in the shop manual. Bob

Here is the spec's on the rear axle/rear drum washer-no tang, thats on the front drum/wheel bearing spindle nut. Bob

Try Napa for the plug caps-or soft plugs as used on engine blocks. I've gotten some from them before. Bob

Truck-O-Matic --any fool thief can steal one-they can take of in any gear. They just need to figure out the rest of the shifting! Bob

If a truck still has the rivits the truck probably was rust free. Thats a good thing, as are the rivits! It's a truck look- it's good! Bob

An emission test needed on a 49 Dodge? Thats ridiculus!!!!!!!!!!!

I try to do things only once. I have seen cheap automotive rubber that after a couple years looks horrible. I've had this 1952 Dodge P/U since 1972 and want this rear rubber to last at least anther 20 years! Bob

Well after reading that the rubber fits/looks good ( my old rubber was smoorth and shiny but hard as concrete) and that my $$$ wont go to Roberts and Andy I just sent $149.00 to Steele! Thats just for the center rubber and shipping to Washington State! Whew-that ought to be enough to help out the economy! Bob

All my dodge truck shop manuals from 1941-53 say the same as Carl said. I think you need to be careful about the drive pinion preload -as said in the shop manual not being too tight. I'd try 180lbs for starters. Did you just replace the seal and now need to tighten it back up? I always prick punch the nut/and the pinion shaft and the yoke before removing these parts so I can put the parts back exactly in the same position-then tighten the pinion nut one slot tighter than it was -unless there is a crush sleeve on the pinion shaft. Bob