Dodgeb4ya

Here are a couple pictures of my Dodge 4 tonner- should probably be the same. Bob

My 1952 Plymouth Belvedere came with the Cast iron lower cover with the 2 cast brackets from new. The car has factory overdrive- and the cast brackets attach to the extra 2 holes on the OD case. This iron lower cover is an extra reinforcement to support the heavier OD transmission. Bob

Hope the New Le-May museum will become reality for years and years to come! They sure are trying hard to get it up and going.

Have had my 1951 plymouth since 1968, 1952 Belvedere since 72 and my 52 Dodge 1 ton since 1973. Bob

I think the B series single wheel 1 ton models use all (4) the same near flush offset wheels. If the truck is a dually 1 ton than the 4 rears must be the coined offset type so the tires don't hit each other. The fronts are flush offset even on the dually 1 tonners at least on the B series trucks from all the old B series I have seen over the past 30 years. Bob

The front wheels are different than the 1 ton rears.They have no inward setback (offset). The front rims are almost evenly flush across the face of inner flat hub area and outer ring. Front rims are not coined- just 6 countersunk holes for the lug nuts. Here is the only picture I've got showing the front rim. You could use the rear style on the front- front tread would be wrong though. Bob

These are the 1 ton wheels that are on our dodge trucks and as said before on 1 ton fords/IH/studebakers and more up through about 1965 at least on the dodges-6 stud/6 handholes. Later years use a wider rim which is good. Bob

From Don Bunn's book, 1951-2 models sported a new two tone interior-seats were deep rich brown vinyl, while roof,quarter panels, door panels were light tan. 1953 trucks had a light tan roof/quarter panels with dark brown seats and door panels matching. 1953 trucks had door panel binding a different color than the panel itself-kinda nice looking too! As for the park lamp bezels- chrome was used on the 1951-3 "Spring Specials" and all regular 1953 trucks. 1951-2 used both body color and black bezels. I think both ways are correct. Remember it's just an old dodge truck! As for the grille center medallion factory colors, some were painted silver with red lettering, some were chrome-I think 51's only? and have seen some painted yellowish beige like the factory wheels. I just redid my 52 Dodge PU door and kick panels in a medium heavy duty truck grade medium brown vinyl purchased from "Perfect fit MacDonald" a wholesale upholstry supply outfit here in the Seattle area. Bought the materials and stitched them up. Not exactly as the original but looks correct enough. Still have the seat and the visors to do . Some pic's of the factory installed chrome 1953 park bezels and my finished door panels, and a members original door panel with the 610T radio! Bob

Nope! They are two different breeds. Does your truck have a Fluid Drive coupling? The truck trans bolt pattern is also different than the M-5 trans. Input shaft bearing retainer will also be different. With enough work you could figure a way to do it. I once put a R10 OD in a 51 Dodge panel! It was a ton of work but got the panel to drive 75 MPH! Scary in an old panel. Bob

The only one time I didn't win 1st place, I sure was mad and acting like a 2 year old! Lets get to perfection and to heck with just having fun with our old cars! OH boy---I'm now worried about if my oil filter and DPCD bolts are correct? This hobby is driving me nuts!!!! Bob

Maybe we should go into depth on how to change and carefully clean the oil filter housings properly too-- and of course for each different style of filter canister ! Bob

Here is a couple shots of the original Corcoran Brown headlamps on my Chrysler. Kj's truck probably has the original Corcoran Brown headlamps. His truck might be so early as to be before the "Bullseyes's came out in 1949. These headlamps kinda have a unique yellowish/orange cast beam! Both mine are near perfect. You can just barely read the Corcoran Brown in the 1st picture. All 1946-8 MoPars as far as I know came withe these as factory headlamps till 1948. Bob

I think this year uses a 5 hole seal plate type seal. Can't seem to find any pic's. Seal lip rides on the brake drum.

The part # for the lower front shock stud is #1119674. The parts book shows a lock washer and nut to fasten it to the Knuckle support. You need a hell of a good swing and a big hammer to knock the stud out. As Ed noted some models did use a shock stud that was swedged and peened over too. Those are not servicable! I went out to the garage and took some shots of the lower shock studs. All were the peened over type but one- on my 50 Chrysler Royal wagon! It has had one side lower stud replaced and had the nut on the forward side of the support. Here are a couple pic's. Bob

Here is the suspension picture out of the D24 parts book. Bob

Another one showing all the american cars and how the Cubans fixed/restored them was called "Yank Tanks". It has interviews of the people and their cars. One guy makes brake linings from used ground up brake shoe lining material! All by hand too! Bob

Geez, After where this thread went........... I wish someone would come by and try to vandalize it to see if it holds up! Bob

Curious to see what some of you guys have done with your left over junk MoPar parts. I made my mailbox out of a couple 1946-52 Plymouth/Chrysler axle housings used as the upright to hold both the newspaper box and on top of course the mailbox encased in a vandal proof enclosure. Anyone else done some old MoPar artwork? Bob

It's the interupter switch on the transmission that for a split second grounds out the ignition circuit to relieve torque on the input shaft so the trans will be able to downshift. The shift rail piston moving back causes a ball on the interupter switch to be depressed and this grounds the ignition circuit. The blue wire goes to the single wire interupter switch. Bob

It's in good operating condition too! Bob

The serial# is definately stamped on the drivers side frame right above the forward spring mounting bracket on 1-1/2 through 2-1/2 tonners. Sand the frame well and then you will see it. I checked 5 of my 1948-52 Dodge trucks all 1-1/2 ton through 4 ton. They all had the #'s stamped in the frame. The 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 tons all have the # directly above the mount. The 3 ton and higher have the # stamped to the rear of the spring bracket and all are stamped much deeper than the medium duty trucks. Shown are a couple Serial #'s off my parts trucks. Use of a 1948-53 Dodge truck parts book will then help ID the truck. It has all the serial #'s. Bob

Quick answer-nope!

2 ways to do this-1st remove the lower bell housing and either remove the fluid coupling 8 nuts and remove the coupling 1st or knock the 2) 1/2" bell housing alignment dowel pins carefully out of the rear block flange towards (into)the bell housing, just enough so the bell housing falls loose -of course with all the bell housing bolts 1st removed. This will let you lift the upper bell housing up off the fluid coupling still attached to the engine, and of course the lower housing must be 1st removed in either case. 2nd way makes it easier to remove the fluid couling nuts. They are either 5/8" or 11/16" nuts. Bob

A couple pictures of the engine side of the throttle linkage.

My name is "B4Ya" because I'm into the BIG DODGE trucks. It's the truck code for the Dodge 4 ton with the 413. I have a Dodge truck with the 413 six in it and another with a 377 and a couple others with the 306 engines-all with factory installed twin carbs/dual exhaust @ 30" head lengths. These engines and the 281 and the 331 were only used in the 2-3/4 ton through the 4 ton dodge trucks and certain industrial applications. All 7 main bearing. They are quite rare to find-very low production#'s. "Kj's dodge" has a 1948 281ci. BIG block too. Bob