Dodgeb4ya

Here is a picture I have of a P8 39 Plym that has only one piece left of the factory sway eliminator-the link stud on the Rt lower A-arm. The car, I think has a NOS MoPar bar and links on it now. Bob

Tom, You spelled it right-I say Chineesey Crap! The old OE flasher probably is ok. Bob

Ed, I think all the new 6 volt flashers are all Chinese import-they absolutely are junk!!! They are very light duty and don't always flash correctly. Glad I have several old stock flashers. Bob

Jon, Is this a new car of yours? Sure is nice!

Did you disconnect the wiring to the left front at the J-block at the inner fender panel and at the steering column 3 way connector before jumping it? You need to disconnect suspected faulty wiring from the problem areas before temporarily jumping ( supplying a new/temp 6 volt feed wire -both at the start and end of the suspected problem runs. Sounds like a direct short to ground at the left front light socket or wiring to it causing the breaker to vibrate and burn out the new flasher. I use a Flukemeter to help me through these situations. I would start by locating/identifing the 3 wires that come down directly from the turn signal switch and feed 6 volt flasher power to the right and left turn signal lights. Do this at the bakelite 3 wire terminal connector at the steering column as shown in my previous pic. Pull a wire at the upper side of the 3 way connector 1 at a time and with the key on and left T/sig turned on use a piece of wire and 6 volt bulb and identify which wire wire makes the 6 volt bulb light blink. This supply wire should be green and it feeds the left front and rear turn signals. The brown feeds the passenger front and rear turn signals. The remaining 3rd wire is the 6 volt "L" flasher supply wire to the turn signal switch- feeds flasher interrupted 6 volt power to the T/sig switch. Always leave it conected to the 3 way connector both sides. Once you have identified the left Turn signal switch supply wire you can connect a short temporary 6 volt test wire and bulb to the T/Sig switch wire out of the switch and quickly test the left turn signal switch operation-the test light base of socket needs to be grounded to a good ground. Turn the key on again with the left T/sig on- the test light should blink as should the dash indicator. If this test light blinks properly now disconnect it and now connect your long jumper wire and run it directly up to the left front signal light wire already also disconnected from inner fender J block. The LF light should blink strong and steady. If the LF still doesn't work correctly it's a socket/bulb or wiring /contacts issue at the light housing or wiring to the end of the pigtail that connects to the J-block! If the LF light does blink normally with the jumper wire then the wiring from the J block at the front inner fender panel to the 3 way connector at the column is faulty. You can use a good meter for the tests if you want instead of a light. For the casual weekender mechanic the test light is probably the best way to do these tests. The brake flasher will work again once you get a good strong flasher and the circuit breaker works at the flasher. Get the LF T/Signal working 1st- then look at the E-brake flasher bulb. Hope this helps! Bob

I have another cracked "NP" regular 5spd case thats the same as my OD truck and easier to get #'s off. I'll get those for you. My Moly Block 4 tonner uses a Clark 290. I went through what you are trying to do with Hollanders/parts books ect and then stumbled across a deceased private collector who had lots (20-30 ) of the medium to big big Dodge trucks back in the very early 80's and was able to buy the 1952 dump bed OD truck. This 2 spd rear axle OD truck is heavy and weak in OD on slight hills and the Dodge factory Salesmans book warns of this issue to prospective new truck buyers! The OD sucks all the power out of the 251 engine and would be worse with a 236 with any heavy bed or chassis.. Bob

Don't use any that are made in China!

Mine is a syncro 5 speed OD trans. You stated you want a spur gear non-syncro OD trans? Here are a couple pics of a 52 Dodge 5 speed syncro-OD in my dump. The OD case will have a "OD" stamped at the rear of case by the drain plug. Non OD transmissions are stamped "R". The medium duty dodge trucks, up to 2-1/2 ton use a 'New Process" transmission found and used only by Dodge. You will have to find one out of only a Dodge truck from 1948-1953 up to 2-1/2 ton. Look at the H through K series dodge trucks. Bob

I've got one, sorry not for sale -way too hard to find! Only one I've ever seen in 30 years of being in old Dodge trucks. It's in my 2-1/2 ton dump. Bob

One wire to the T/Sig switch is flasher Terminal "L" interupted 6 volt power Second wire is a Brown that goes to the passenger side front and rear higher candle power Turn Signal filaments Third wire that is a green feeds the drivers side Turn signal lights front and rear. Here is a pic of that connector on my N-Yorker business coupe.

Sounds like a 46-8 Chrysler? Seems like a open green wire circuit on the drivers side as long as your bulbs are orientated in the sockets correctly. If so there is a 3 wire bakelite connector at the steering column. Make sure the 2 opposing "Green" wires are pushed in fully. The green wires are for the drivers (left) side of the car. I assume you have the wiring diagram. These 3 wire T/Sig Chrysler DeSoto ect up to 1948 circuits are pretty simple. The switch could be a problem-poor connection at the contacts under current draw load. You need to pull the steering wheel to get at the switch easily. The circuit breaker is the way the Chrylers flashers are protected. Some of these new "Import" replacement flashers are not too reliable. Try jumpers 1st to the front and rear high CP filament contact of your cars left side lights before getting to the switch, also ground jumper the light housing to be sure of a really good ground. You will figure it out! Bob

It's a model C45 if a 6 cylinder Royal or Windsor. Bob

I looked that T311# up in my master Engine rebuilders book and the big Federal Mogul bearing books-sorry no go! Canadian stuff is so weird- whoops sorry Fred! Bob

1950 Dodge car. Hard to read though-D34?

The big dodge "Moly Block" engines are painted with the red Gyptol paint on the inside of the block from the factory. All mine are. Bob

Why build a flattie to be a OHV?

Here is one of those factory tire irons and swaged on hub cap removal tools from one of my Chryslers. Bob

Chrysler 8's and 217/230 ci. are 3.250" bore!

I have that tire iron with that remover on the iron for my T&C. It is kept on the iron with a raised nib. All the 1946-8 chryslers came with them. Bob

100% Easy 1st game! 2nd game 17 out of 19 ..

One is for sale- same color in Oregon. A nice car on Craigs list. He has not been able to sell it. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2134534821.html

It's a 1949 Chrysler wheel and thats how the horn ring on a 49 is. See this 1949 Highlander Interior. Bob

You have it right Rodney. Originally from the factory there was a indexing tab that made sure the counter weight was installed correctly on the shaft. Some more info for everyone... Bob