Dodgeb4ya

If you are good at gas welding you can do any type of welding-especially high end tig welding.

Your in the car removal is tight. I raise the engines up to remove the pulley hub when doing a in the car front seal or timing chain set. I use really well made pullers too-they don't give, they will remove what I need removed. You need a bit more room and keep tightening. Like already mentioned if the puller you have won't work- get a good quality beam puller and it will come off. Shouldn't ever need heat, just a bigger puller-then tighten the puller a lot more! It'll come off. Bob

Todays replacement pins are the shorter ones. Factory in the day were the long pins as OE equipment. Bob

Hagens had a major fire a a year or two ago-not sure if they are up a running 100%.

1400096 is the correct part# for 3rd gear in a "Truck-O-Matic" trans for the dodge trucks. This info out of the 48-53 Dodge truck parts book. There are 3 or more versions of 3rd gear-depends on strut or pin type syncros. Bob

Here is a Jiffy Jet Kit. Some day I'll put it in one of the cars. Bob

If you were to take all the trans wiring off the transmission and drive the car, You will find that it will upshift into high range the second you let off the gas-even at 2 MPH!. It will stay in the high range at all times-no downshift is possible-unless you come to a complete stop and hold the clutch pedal down and wait for up to 5 seconds for oil pressure to drop to let the direct speed sleeve pull rearward and off the input shaft. You need the electronic controls to provide a downshift when you want it ( throttle KD) or a governer controlled downshift as in coming to a stop. The car should still move normally in and around your drive way even with a high idle. The trans doesnt even need to be full of fluid to be able to drive around the yard /driveway ect in low range. The brakes need to be checked-both E-brake and service brakes. The Fluid coupling possibly could have a weird problem-low on fluid locked up ect. The clutch itself possibly and lastly an internal issue in the trans-free wheeling section or input shaft? Jack it up pull the driveline and test the trans for smooth normal rotation and go from there. Never had an M-6 with this bump the clutch to get it to move issue. Is it a optional torque converter coupling as in "Fluid Torque Drive" as used in the Chryslers with a actual torque converter-now those do have some serious issues! I know DeSoto's had their own version of it. Pics of the underside of trans/coupling housing would be good too. Bob

The pics of the 2 Carter carbs I posted are correct for both the 1946-8 M-5 single wire electric dash pot carbs and the 1949-52 M-6 2 wire electric dash pot is shown in my 1950 Chrysler Town and Country 8 with the M-6. Carbs with the adjustable screw on the air horn are for just 3 speed Fluid Drive cars and trucks W/O the M-6 tranmissions, but W/ FD couplings only. Bob

I would guess a single speed rear end/4 speed with no frame side rail reinforcements, stripped-no bed, all six tires with engine probably 4500-5000 lbs. If it has a 5 speed with OD get it! Trans case at rear stamped OD by drain plug. Bob

As far as I know- all the USA Chrysler and DeSoto cars-- 1949-53 six/eight cylinder W/ the M-6 used a carter 1bbl with a 2 wire electrically controlled anti-stall dash pot to prevent sudden back to idle stalling and a built in KD switch. 1946-8 M-5's used a single wire electric dash pot- same style carb. Dodge cars used the Stromberg carbs with the 2 wire solenoid mounted on the carb top, KD on side. Bob

The cheaper 6 tube radio from a 1951 or 2 Plymouth.

Too hard I guess, so here are the answers...The 2nd tool kit is a guage for checking Oil Viscosity as like maybe the Fluid Drive oil. The last tools are distributor tools as shown in the shop manuals at times. Bob

I have never started a engine with a hand crank and probably never would-too scared! My pics are just for show!

I tried using the factory hand crank that came with my big truck-could barely turn the engine over! The 1 ton with a 265 was just a bit easier. Use the starter!

Have removed hundreds of them over the years. Use a quality puller and don't be a "Pansy"! Never had to wait on one. In the shop get-er done-now. Never stripped one or needed heat either. They always come off. I tighten the screw up really tight with an impact holding the puller with one hand to absorb impact shock. Then tighten some more by banging on the dogbone. Wack the screw end a couple times-tighten the screw up more-repeat if necessary and BANG-off she comes. The early 60's Chryslers are the really hard ones to get off, but they too come off. Got to let the car know who's in charge! Keep the nut on the axle if you don't want to hold the drum with your hand to stop the drum from flying across the shop!!!

Here are pics with caliper readings. The pins are hardened steel. Only 2 sizes of push rods-long and short. Don't know why I showed the middle push rod-it is just a different style with a small hole through it to pin it to the shoe-obsolete. These were old pic's of a previous posting I did way back. You will need to use the longer push rod to keep the pistons from extending too far. Bob

OE drum diameter is 14.125" or 14 and 1/8" std size. Today most drums can be turned a maximum of .060". Just use the thickest shoes you can. It will work fine as long as the drums are round. I have dealt with this same issue of trying to find good drums and they are hard to find for these old 1 tons. 1952 or 53 and later models use 5/8" studs on the drum hubs 1951 or 52 and back use smaller 9/16" studs, other wise drums are the same I believe if my memory is correct and will be useable. On 1953 1 ton rear brakes -the backing plate and shoes are completely different than earlier trucks-1953 uses floating/self centering shoes. Bob

Why do you need to apply sealer to the axle shaft key slots?

The carb nuts are 3/8" X 24 fine thread-no washers originally used either! Bob

Real friendly reply to a new member posting whats right--this forum at times is going down the wrong path. The select few run it I guess.

You are pretty close Don. It does mount in a vise and does hold a MoPar something.

You will need to check your wheel cylinder piston and push rod combinations. Here are some pics of the different types. Your push rod you are using must be the shorter one. Bob

Nope, here is that tool....

Dial indicator - kinda, but for what use?

Well, The beer sure looks good.. oh and the other goodies too!