Dodgeb4ya

Did you lube the throwout bearing sleeve with some Moly grease? The retainer sleeve needs just a slight smear as does the input shaft splines-just the slightest bit.

Be sure to use both ferrous and non-ferrous magnets for both the steel and brass/pot metal parts. Bob

Should be a single wire anti-stall coil. Any DeSoto or Chrysler 1946- middle of 1948 will work. They usually never fail unless the terminal is broken off. Bob

Whoops, And another one I have a few of-- the "PrestoMatic", for the 1949-50 Chryslers.

People back inthe day never understood the Fluid Drive with and with out the M4,5 and and 6, let alone Fluid Torque Drive and still don't today. Fluid Drive, Fluid-Matic, Simpli-Matic, Tip-Toe Shift, Hydraulically Operated ,Vacamatic and on and on and on! Yeah, better have a good E-brake with all of them.

I think 1949 was the 1st "GyroMatic" 2 range hydraulically operated transmission for Dodge. He will have to do it the old way and manually downshift.

Have these on my 1952 1 ton. They are pretty nice chrome dress up on the trucks. I know that they didn't come on the Pilot House Trucks-they should have though. Bob

I better put some of my air cleaners on too!

He needs rubber booties and a jack stand.

I can do all phases or automobile work from engine rebuilds to paint and upholstry. I really appreciate and thank the guys who cannot do much if any resto/repair/or rebuild work on their cars! They put money in my pocket. I do the work for them. I would never harp on people who have a shop do the work. Some folks never grew up mechanically minded, but they at least are getting another old piece of the past going again and lookin good-thats a good thing. I appreciate both those who do their own and those who don't. Works for me! This site helps both types and should. Bob

Fred, The large moths are the result of the Japanese Fukushima reactor releasing radioactive contaminants into the jetstream that travels over your area. You will probably grow bigger too!

Ed, I hope you bought all 3 parts books for $12.00. I sure would have-excellent references on parts look up. Bob

And -He wants ONLY a "serious" buyer too!

Hey Fred, That engine has had some good oil changes, Pretty clean lookin! You need to get it running on a test stand to see how it does run. Might run like a champ. Bob

Toss the OD in my junk pile please!

Joe, Your black plastic 3 terminal headlamp connector is the original. Have the same on all my cars. Bob

That pitman arm would be hard to bend Mike. Are you sure it's really bent? They look kinda bent up as stock from the factory. I drove over a 53 Dodge once with the dozer by accident-didn't even bend the pitman arm! Poor old Dodge.

Couple things- Collector Auto supply copied the parts list of Len Dawsons "Deception Pass Motor parts"- They just hunt the parts for you and mark em up- alot! And or buy them from Len. Just some info. I understand jorswift that you don't need the complete gasket set-but you need to see whats included in the complete set and get the oil pump O ring seal part# or contact them if you wish to see if they will help you out. Maybe call Olsen's Gaskets too. There was a thread about this same issue awhile back and the Pt #'s were listed as I recall or at least the contents of the complete gasket set. Bob

Best Gasket and Felpro list that gasket in their complete gasket sets. Bob

Thats the modern cheap replacement seal. Seals today are light weight and have to be carefully pressed in to the desired depth so the seal lip is centered on the crank pulley hub. Make sure the hub has no worn groove-if there is a groove a "Speedi-Sleeve is required. The seal cannot be pressed too deep -just flush eith the T/C cover. No need to have it stick up 1/4" as this seal is much different than the original. Bob

Cheap non professional jumper cables belong in the hands of copper thieves. Mine are made out of 2/0 heavy welding cable-they work real good. Starters need lots of free flowing current! Especially 6 volt cars. Bob

Well, I have to pipe in and say there is a special square shaped circular gasket to seal the cover to the oil pump. A year or two ago this issue was brought up. Section 10-8-3 of the MoPar parts book will give the correct part# of an original service oil pump. Bob.

Could be a electrical problem with the trans wiring or resister circuit. Wires hooked up wrong for the M-6 trans?. I'm thinking the ignition is shorting upon both upshift and downshifts through the interupter switch on the transmission. Go look at the "Hydraulically Operated Transmission" Mr Tech Books. There are 2 little books to help you. Here are what the the 1949 Vol 2 #11 and 12 M-6 booklets look like. You cannot go by the earlier 1948 M-5 booklets at the Imperial site as the wiring is some what different. This could solve your problem-maybe! Factory service manuals and literature are the way I figured out all my problems over the years. I didn't have a computer back then! You really need the factory 1953 DeSoto service manual if you are serious about keeping your car and be able to service and repair it. Bob

This site has a lot of posts on the MaJax....http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ Bob

The 1961 MoPar supercedence book says #953579 use or superceded by #1124304. #953580 same info. Part# 1124304 is a kit consisting of your ring and pinion numbers fitting various 1941-52 Mopar 6 cylinder cars-1941 Dodge-???. Formate type gear set. Bob