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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya
    I had a problem with quality /finish/look on the rear window rubber .Called them about it and they sent another right out.
  2. Dodgeb4ya
    Roberts should have stuck with selling condoms.
  3. Dodgeb4ya
    I like that blue dodge 3 pass coupe!
  4. Dodgeb4ya
    Watch out for king pin diameter's. 1951 and up are bigger.
  5. Dodgeb4ya
    Proper surface prep is critical...100% complete cleaning of surfaces...Wipe clean with brake cleaner or equivalent. Check/clean head bolts..use sealant like Permatex 2 ect on the bolt threads. I do use gasket sealer... Copper Coat usually on the Mopar flathead copper gaskets as noted by "Best Gaskets". Torque the head in three stages . Run engine to temp..re-torque again to specs. JMO... Bob
  6. Dodgeb4ya
    I fabbed up all the brake, vacuum and fuel lines 1/4, 5/16" and 1/2" on this old Chrysler CW Airflow. All stainless tube. 3/16" and 1/4 soft steel brake tube or cunifer tube is easy to form--even for the DIY'er. If you look at youtube vids of brake line repairs there are a lot of video's giving plenty of info on how to do this kind of tube bending and flaring fabrication for the every day car owner. It's fun to learn and be able to do repairs on your old ride! Might want to give it a try. Bob
  7. Dodgeb4ya
    You are so right!!! I have one (54 windsor 4 door) in front of my shop I just parted out too!
  8. Dodgeb4ya
    The OP's 1951 chrysler club coupe car can quickly be identified as a 1951 model by the 1950- 1951 tail light lens and the rectangular clear back up lamps. Bob
  9. Dodgeb4ya
    The above car is a 1953 Chhrysler Windsor club coupe. The one piece windshield started in 1953. 1951-52 Chryslers all have two piece windshields and look the same body wise with very minor trim differences... Like minor tail light differences ect.
  10. Dodgeb4ya
    Don't need to pull the cover.... just do as Mr. Adams says to do.
  11. Dodgeb4ya
    The timing chain is easy to check.
  12. Dodgeb4ya
    A fairly common part in my travels.
  13. Dodgeb4ya
    left side... 1950 ply parking lamp lens retainer. Whoopsie! Wrong post in wrong thread... DELETE!
  14. Dodgeb4ya
    Setting that FD coupling that way (upside down) could cause the graphite seal to leak. I don't know if you care but those couplings are kinda $$$ these days to find and replace. The truck couplings are the same as Straight "8" 10" clutch Chrysler cars 1949-50. Bob
  15. Dodgeb4ya
    A little over 2500SF including up stairs Todd. The more SF means more stuff to take care of. I'm maxed out for sure! Bob
  16. Dodgeb4ya
    Some too packed man cave pics... don't let your man cave take over your life! Mine did. Bob
  17. Dodgeb4ya
    Look in the front accessories section of the book- heaters. All the par t#'s are there.
  18. Dodgeb4ya
    Be a big boy man and yank it out.
  19. Dodgeb4ya
    X's 3!!!
  20. Dodgeb4ya
    1253055 should be the resistor for the model 36 heater switch... according to the 46-8 chrysler parts book.
  21. Dodgeb4ya
    Do you have a single blower motor heater or two heaters? Dual heater systems tend to have more switch problems if the motors are slow to turn-bearings/ shafts dried up ect.
  22. Dodgeb4ya
    Your multi-speed switch should need two of these resistors. My 46 New Yorker coupe switch has two of those same part # resistors.
  23. Dodgeb4ya
    That is th right replacement resistor-one of two.
  24. Dodgeb4ya
    I think there is a resistor on ebay right now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-1946-1947-1948-Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Desoto-NOS-MOPAR-Heater-Switch-Resis-/251653297131?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a97b493eb&vxp=mtr I have seen quite a few resistors on the bay over the years.
  25. Dodgeb4ya
    Later models 1955 and up are a different size but do look the same. 1949-54 all Mopar cars use the same ring.
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