knuckleharley

Don't worry about replacing the floors yet. Fix the front crossmember first. Easy to find at junkyards on the web. Then do EVERYTHING in the brakes,including the lines and hoses. Nothing wrong with your drum brakes if the drums are thick enough to safely be turned. If you have to buy new drums,go with a disc brake conversion and be done with it. Next go ahead and replace the gas tank with a new one and be done with it. Also replace the gas line with the new copper/nickel tubing you will also use as brakelines. Unlike steel brake lines,it will never rust and cause rust flakes in your fuel line. Replace ALL the rubber and gas filters with new stuff rated to withstand ethanol gas,too. I realize you live in Florida and might have a snake problem,so just get some flat sheet metal,a tube of caulking,and some sheet metal screws to seal off the floors temporarily to keep the snakes and water out of the car. Don't worry about a perfect fit. Just cut it big,lay it over what you already have after running a thin line of calking all around where it goes,then drill a few small holes and use sheet metal screws to keep it in place for the time being. People who have never gotten upside down on a front seat to stick their head up under a dash to pull a radio and then spot the skin from a cottonmouth hanging down from the radio box can understand the excitement involved in something like that. I can,and once is enough. What I do now with a old car I plan on working on and driving that has bad floors is roll the windows up,and set a can or two of roach and flea killer spray bombs inside the car and set them off. Do this BEFORE you seal off the floors so that anything in there has somewhere to run. The "smoke" will rise from the car and there is no place it won't get into. Once done,air out the car and THEN seal off the floors with flat tin and a brick or something else to hold the tin down to keep critters out until you can do the job properly. I have a cousin that lived about 2 miles up a track through the woods,and that was the only house there. In warm weather she got into habit of just leaving the drive door of her van open when she got home. She got in there one day to go to the grocery store and drove out to the highway and stopped at a local gas station to get gas first. When she went to get back into the van there was a rattlesnake laying in the floor where her feet go. Needless to say,she never left the door open again. Or any windows rolled down.

In that case,WHY are you messing around with cast iron exhaust manifolds? Buy some exhaust tubing,weld flanges to each piece,bolt each to an exhaust port,and run them straight out and then back. Or back and down. If the noise is too much for you,put a motorcycle baffle in each one.

I think the number 1 question you want answered first is "WHERE do i want the pipes to dump with the engine in the chassis I will be using?" It would really suck to cut up a manifold and have it welded together to then discover one of the outlets would dump on the crossmember or hit something else.

Yeah,I'm liking that! Thanks!

Thanks,Greg.

My plan is to run duals side by side all the way out to the rear bumper,like you did. I might get lazy and dump them out in front of the right rear tire,though. After watching that You Tube test I doubt using a H pipe that short would have any influence of gas velocity at all,and just not worth the trouble for power. The tone might be worth it,though. Guess I am going to have to cruise you tube and see if I can find one with a H-Pipe to listen to.

The tone is what it is all about for me. If max HP was all that important,I woudn't leave the inline in the car.

I'd like to hear the pros and cons about a balance tube and the effect one has on the sound of a inline 6.

I never tried to say,or implied that you did. *I* was saying it's not good enough because I love the sound of split exhausts on a inline engine. And it's not about "loud",it's about the tone. Or at least it is with me.

For some reason what I noticed was the dog. Never seen such a big tail on a dog in my life. If that thing gets soaked with snow or ice,he's not going to be strong enough to drag it around. The good news,not much danger of his "delicates" getting cold,is there?

NOT good enough! We want to hear it! Not much sounds better than an inline 6 with duals.

There is nothing to prevent anyone with a hole saw from sawing holes for header pipes out of the inner fenders so the pipes exit the port holes. I have a 39 Ford with a hi-po V-8 that has part of the inner fenders cut away so the headers can exit out over the top of the frame rails.

I never had any real interest in owning one,so I never paid that much attention to them. I was just assuming the hemi Cuda's needed all the heat relief they could get in those tight quarters,so the vents would open.

Ahhh,but the fender vents in Cuda's were there to look good as well as let out heat. Believe it or not,but Buick started putting them in Buicks in the mid-30's to simulate the exhaust ports of speed boats. Buick WANTED people to think of Buicks as "land yachts" back when "big is good!" IIRC,they used them right up through the 1957 year models,and IMHO,they were still looking good. I have never seen it,but there is no doubt in my mind that at some point someone,some red neck ran his headers out of them. It is just too obvious to have not happened.

I always called them "port holes". AFAIK,Buicks were the only cars to come with them from the factory,but they seemed to be popular with customizers in the 50's,who put them on everything. BTW,REALLY nice color combo on that Dodge. That thing is a beauty!

Would it be possible to get it refaced without taking it apart?

I am NOT trying to be disrespectful,just helpful. If you have to ask,you probably shouldn't be trying to build a wiring harness from scratch. Do yourself a favor and buy one with all the wires already ran and marked ever 12 inches or so. You will be glad you did.

Thanks to you,too! It's always better to have more than one source.

Thanks,now have that saved in a text file in my 42 Dodge folder for future use.

The upholstery isn't even within shouting distance of original,but I'm loving it. The only improvement I could add would be those tiny little holes that allow for air circulation,but your seats might have them. Me not seeing them doesn't mean they aren't there.

Please either PM the info,or post it here on this thread. Thanks!

Wasn't it manufactured in Uruguay? I suspect you will have to find that data there. As for the original color,you can find that by taking the kick panels off by the cowl,looking inside the door jambs,the underside of the hood,etc,etc,etc.

Nic looking car. Take a look inside the front door jambs for a serial number tag. Import cars are different than American cars,with different trim attached to Plymouth bodies that have Dodge nameplates on them. The serial numbers and the wheelbase dimensions are what you will need to know to order parts,but in your case I would immediately start a serious search or a Owners Manual,Parts Manual,and Service manual for Dodges manufactured in Uruguay and/or surrounding nations that was published in Spanish. I suspect US service and parts manuals would lead you astray. I can definitely tell you that your car is a early 1942 model,not a blackout model. The blackout models were made after the US entered into WW-2 and have no chrome on them. Grilles,bumpers,etc are identical in every other respect,but are painted instead of chromed.

What sort of information do you need? According to the paperwork you show it was an import model,so I am sure there will be things different about it than on US 1942 Dodges. Because of this you will have to be specific with your inquiries.

My only thought is I don't own a 49-52 Plymouth,and when it comes to specifics like that you need to "talk" with someone that does.