knuckleharley

I am 90 percent certain they will,but the truth is you can buy brand new steel rims from Summit Racing for about 60 bucks each delivered that WILL fit,and are brand new and guaranteed to be unbent,pitted,or cracked. By the time you buy the CL rims and then sandblast them for painting,you will have more than 60 bucks each in a old rim that may be bent or pitted. Besides,IIRC,the 49-51 rims are only 5.5 inches wide and unsuitable for wide enough tires to ride good and give you traction and handling. Go with a 6 or 6.5 inch wide wheel,which is a better fit for 205-225 tires. Get them in,wipe off the rust protection,have them powder coated,and you are ready to go. BTW,you might want to check to make sure those Ford wheels are 15 inch and not 16 inch. I THINK some of the early 49's came with 16 inch wheels. If the width is important to you,send me a PM tomorrow morning to double check for you. I have at least 8 of them out in my yard with no tires on them and it will be easy for me to measure them. It's raining here right now or I would do it now. I can tell you for a fact that early Duster/Dart rally wheels are a perfect fit on 49-51 Fords because I have a parts car in the yard with 71 Duster rims on it

One of the scariest men to have ever lived,Groucho Marx. His tv show in the 50's was hysterically funny,and none of it was planned. He would invite idiots up from the audience to talk with him,and within a couple of minutes have them so confused they didn't even know who there were,never mind what they were saying,and his favorite audience members seemed to be young double-breasted blondes. Nobody knew what the magic word was that would get that duck to drop so they could win 50 bucks,so people said anything and everything. I was just a little kid,and even back then I was wondering how he got half that stuff past the censors. I had an actual fear of running into Groucho somewhere when I was a kid,and having him start talking to me. My plan was to scream like a woman and run.

Really nice-looking truck. Has it been redone before?

Good luck to you! Those look like awful tight quarters to be dragging a air hose and spray gun around in. Do you have exhaust fans in the walls?

If you think you liked it before,check out the interior. The hole in the dash is for the freewheeling control,which is in the trunk. It's going to hurt to get rid of this one,but I can't keep them all. If any potential buyer even WHISPERS words like "big block V-8,rat rod,or chopped top" while looking at it,he is going to get ran off at gunpoint.

51 Ford Victoria. All original but the hubcaps and beauty rings. Plan on selling it this summer after getting something else on the road. Going to use that sale money to get my 39 IHC pu back on the road,and to restore my 51 6 cylinder business coupe,which will get sold at my estate sale.

Not driving any of my Mopars now,but will be driving my stock 31 Plymouth coupe this spring. I finally found the parts I need to rebuild the brakes,the car is complete,and it is also in the way under my lift. So it will be the first to become mobile again. Probably put it up for sale next fall. I can't keep them all,and selling it will give me the cash to put others on the road. Then again,that all depends on how much fun I have driving it and challenging local Model A owners to race me. It is by far the nicest car I own.

LOVING that dark metallic green so many car manufacturers used in the early 50's.

You are a lucky,lucky man to find and buy a car that nice with no engine in it because chances are you got a hell of a buy. Replacing engines is simple and not very expensive. Nobody ever said that about bodywork,rechroming,and nice paint/

Racers are concerned with making maximum power at wide-open throttle,not drive-ability. Street cars operate at much lower RPM's that don't need and can't even use as much fuel flow,and need a little bit of "roughness" in order to run properly at idle and typical cruise speeds. Not such a big deal if you live in a rural area,but it can be a big deal if you mostly drive in city traffic.

Seems to me that if you were to coat it,that would help keep the heat trapped in the intake,and be bad for both performance and fuel economy. In hot weather it could even lead to fuel vaporization and stalling.

The dashpot carb will be needed regardless of if you run one or two carbs,but there is no such critter as a "period correct" dashpot carb for a 1934 anything. I could VERY easily be wrong about this,but I THINK you will need dashpots on BOTH carbs for balance purposes if you run a 2 carb intake. If you run a 3 carb intake I THINK you can get by with 1 dashpot on the center carb. If I am wrong,and I probably am because reason often collides with reality,somebody PLEASE correct me. BTW,if you want to go with "period correct",but not "vehicle correct",Mopar had dual carb and dual exhaust factory setups for big trucks starting in the mid-30's. You sometimes see them for sale,but they are expensive. AFAIK,none of the cars ever left the factory with that intake or exhaust setup.

Yeah,I've been there,too. 4 emergency surgeries in 4 or 5 years,plus a few trips to the ER with crap like a broken hand had me buried in debt for several years,and all my stuff just sat there while I was trying to recover financially. I now have some mobility and flexibility issues that cause me problems,but I finally got out from under all those damn medical bills and am trying to get back to working on my cars again just as soon as I get some home repairs made. Or hire someone to do them for me,anyway. Can't climb ladders or kneel very good due to arthritis in my knees. That's why I bought a rotisserie to do bodywork and paint,and a lift to do mechanical work. If I can't bend or kneel to get to the work,I need to make the work come to me so I can sit or stand to do it. It would have probably been cheaper to just pay someone to do the cars,but if I did that I wouldn't have anything to do. My greatest fear in life is to wake up one morning and not have anything interesting to do.

I will have a dual carb 230 aluminum intake for sale once I figure out which one I want to run on my own 230. I have an Edmunds that is show polished,and a Nickerson that was sorta polished at one time. Both have water heat. Depending on your chassis,you make a split manifold from a car manifold and a truck manifold. Exhaust manifolds are pretty pricey these days,so that can be expensive. Even worse,it is wasteful. Some people just cut an additional exhaust hole in their stock manifolds and add an outlet with a flange to bolt the second exhaust pipe on. Not really sure how well that works flow-wise with the Siamesed Mopar exhaust ports,though. You can always make headers from exhaust pipes and flat plate,but sometimes you can find cast iron headers that were made by some manufacturer whose logo I can't remember right now,and I'm looking for a set of those in 230 and another set in 251 for my engines. The steel tube headers probably put out more power,but I like the sound of the cast iron headers.

I think they are a hell of a buy. I told the Dodge Boys when they first announced these heads and the target price to put me down for 1 230 head and 1 251 head,and followed up by buying both on the same day. I also found and bought a NOS Edmunds head for the flat 6 Ford engine in my 51 coupe a couple of months ago. Only took about 5 years to find one,and don't ask me what I had to pay for it. It's too painful to talk about. The good news is that since it was NOS it had never been milled or mounted and warped,and you can bet your bippy I will be getting the top of the block surfaced before it is mounted,and that I mount and torque it VERY carefully when it does go on the engine. This stuff in good or even repairable condition is not getting any easier to find,and it's going to get harder to find with every day that passes. On top of that,if you wait 3 or 4 years to buy one,chances are a used one is going to cost you more then than a new one does today.

Since you are not restoring for show points,pretty much any single barrel carb used on inline 6's between 200 and 250 cubic inches would work fine for you as long as it has the dashpot and linkage for use with a auto trans.Holley 1904's are good carbs used on everything BUT Mopars for a couple of decades,so they are fairly easy to find with dashpots. Getting kinda pricey these days,though. If it were me,I would look for one with a part number that indicates it came from 215 or 223 OHV Ford 6 because as-is it would be a pretty good match for your 230. Stay away from the ones used on 170 cubic inch Falcons or similar displacement engines unless you plan on running dual or triple carbs. In that case,they would be close to ideal. I am no expert on the port sizes of various Mopar engines,but I suspect you could find a little more power and maybe even fuel mileage by going with more modern intake and exhaust manifolds. The 50's 230's made a LOT more power than the 34 201-whatevers,and being able to inhale and exhale is a large part of that.

Disconnect your battery and then take your headlight switch out after making all the wires so you know which wire goes where,and then clean all the contacts on the wires and on the headlight switch. Hook the wires back up again,re-connect your battery,and pull out the knob and see what happens. If you still don't have any headlights use a test light to make sure you have power going to the headlights from the pole on the switch that goes to the headlights. If you have fire there,see if you have power at the headlight plugs. If you don't,you need to fix a short or run new headlight wires. If you don't have any power going from the headlight switch to the headlights,replace the switch. For a back up test you can run a jumper from a hot wire going to the headlight switch and then directly to the wires going to the headlight. If there are still no headlights,you may need to rewire the headlight wires as well as buy a new switch. Do NOT forget to check your dimmer switch in the floor. Lots of times that is the culprit because water and mud gets splashed up on the connections and they need to be cleaned. In FACT,checking high beam and low beam with your headlight switch knob pulled all the way out should be your first test. You might have high beams and no low beams,or low beams and no high beams. That would be a good first clue you need to check and clean all the connections going to the dimmer switch. BTW,I can't remember if this is true of the early 50's Mopar headlight switches or not,but it was pretty common back then to have a fuse plugged into the headlight switch. Checking that fuse and cleaning the contacts while you are messing with it is always a worthwhile thing to do,but it's obviously not the problem because you have taillights.

True,but I don't want or need an aluminum hemi-head. In fact,I have two complete DeSoto hemi's I could use in my 42 if I wanted a hemi in it. I do plan on using one in my basket case 33 Plymouth coupe if I live long enough to get to it,and I will sell the other one. Going to pull them both apart to see what is what,and keep the best one. BUT.....,in my 42 coupe engine bay I want nothing BUT a flat 6 Mopar engine.

And....,let's face the ugly reality that a thousand bucks ain't what it used to be 10 years ago,either. Inflation. I used to carry 20 bucks in cash around on me years ago so I would have a little spending money if something came up. Now I carry 100 bucks.

I pretty much didn't have any choice. I am stuck on loving 1950's style hot rods,and it ain't a 50's hot rod without finned aluminum heads on flatheads. Besides,I will be getting paid back in smiles every time I open the hood and see that finned aluminum head and the 3 carbs. How much money are smiles worth?

You can always ask if they still have any left at that price. It's a special price for the first 25 heads in each series.

https://www.moparmontana.com/

They are normally $1200 for the 230's and $1400 for the 251's,but the first 25 of each series will be numbered and sold for $1000 and $1100.

Guys,if you want one of the 23 or 25 inch Edgy heads,now is the time to buy it because they are just starting the pour,and the first 25 buyers of each will get a 1 to 25 special serial number on it. More importantly,you get $200 off for making a early buy. And "No,mine is NOT going to be for sale!" BTW,my only connection with the Montana Boys is a few emails. Never met them in my life and have no financial,family,or business connections with them.

Yup. Holley sold them to anybody that wanted to buy them,but I think most went on 6 cylinder OHV Fords. Pretty good carbs,plus it's a kick to see the gas flowing through the float bowl. Only real downside is they are getting pricey now,but isn't everything?