knuckleharley

Making a suggestion,NOT telling you what to do with your car,but you DO KNOW that Chrysler made pretty good small block V-8'S and automatic transmissions,right? With the exception of the 340,which no 350 GM engine could keep in sight,they are all cheaper to buy used that the GM products,and are much better made. For a nice driver that gets good gas mileage and has good power,a 318 is hard to beat. If you want power in a small block the 340 is the way to go if you can find one with the early hi-po heads,or a 360 with factory or aftermarket parts. While pondering this consider that I own vehicles powered by both GM and Mopar engines.

An alternative you might want to consider is Delta Cams on the upper left coast. If you are after a stock cam,chances are they have one in stock they will mail out to you the day you call them,and refund the core charge once they get your old one. They also weld up, grind,and heat treat solid lifters Or if you want a traditional 3/4 racing grind,stump puller grind,or anything in between,they can do that,too. Good people to work with. It's worth your time to send them a email to compare prices if nothing else.

Learn something new every day.

That's great news. Now you know you have a solid base to build on,and in the end will have an engine that will last for decades running modern oils with a minimum amount of repairs.

I have been back and looked,and I still don't see any color changes. Maybe it is my browser. New computer with new Mozilla download,and on some web pages even the colored "post" boxes are completely missing. Whatever the reason,if I tell you I don't see something and that I have been back and looked again,I have been back again and looked,and still don't see anything. When I asked you what you wanted me to google,you could have just told me after the 1st time I told you I didn't see it. Now,I just don't care.

No,you didn't. You are just playing your little mind games. If you were serious you would have just said what you were talking about instead of trying to look clever by making it a guessing game.

I see nothing highlighted. Wouldn't it be easier to just tell me what it is you want me to do in plain language?

Google what.dripless oil,candle wax...????

I never heard of such a thing. What are the brand names,and where can you get it? I never tried this myself,but was told a long time ago that you could heat the outside part of the hinge and melt candle wax to run down in it. Not sure if they were pulling me leg or not,but it always seemed to me that getting a hinge that hot would not be a good thing to do. There has to be some sort of tiny press you could use to "pump" the hinge pin out if you don't want to drill it out.

Looking at all the rusty gunk at the freezplugs and the front of the block,I suspect you had some "hot spots" in the block. You are doing yourself a major favor by just cleaning that crap out so the water will flow like it's supposed to flow.

Somebody has to want this thing. At this price it would be worth buying to have a spare if you have an accident. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-Plymouth-Coupe-Passenger-Car-NORS-War-Time-Painted-Grill-Rat-Rod-Grille/172918346417?hash=item2842bc92b1:g:8O0AAOSwT5tWFozX&vxp=mtr BTW,this is NOT mine and I have no idea who it is that has it for sale.

Well,they are much more efficient carbs than the old 97 Strombergs,your engine has been rebuilt and might even have a hotter cam or bigger valves,and you have a high compression head and probably a more efficient exhaust. 2 2 barrel carbs Stromberg 97's pumping gas at the same time on a stock 218 being driven on the street is asking for problems. Plus someone mentioned a higher pressure fuel pump was used on the old Mopars,and I 'd like to hear more about that. It's just one of the many things I know nothing about and would have never suspected.

You ain't going to want to hear this,but with a basically stock street engine 2 2brl carbs flow too much gas for a 218. I suspect if you got the adapters and switched to 2 1brl carbs that your problem of flooding would go away.

I could use something like that to pull a mower through the tall marsh grass around my house. Just bought a 4x4 ATV yesterday and hoping it will do the job. If it won't,I just made an expensive mistake. BTW,what purpose was that originally made to accomplish,who made it,what was it called,and when was it in production? What transmission does it use? Any ideas? Also,I am VERY interested in learning how you managed to burn a hole in the side without setting the old oil on fire. Don't ask me how I know a torch and old oil is a bad combination. And "Yes,I do consider this to be Mopar related."

Yeah,all that.

That sure does have some clean lines.

Does she have a sister?

LOL! I didn't even notice it. I went to the link he provided to the Spitfire head,and it was in one of the little "you might also be interested in these" little photo links below. Given how little 200 bucks buys these days,a NOS flat 6 head at that price seemed like a bargain.

Did you see this one? If you can swing 200 bucks it might be the answer to your problems. NOS,so you know it has never been milled or warped.

Just because the valves in your engine aren't smaller,that doesn't mean it's true for all industrial engines. It depends on the manufacturer and the application.

I'm not certain how much is different with the Chrysler engines,but most industrial engines have a lower lift cam,smaller valves,and less compression. The carbs are also usually different/smaller because the engines are usually ran for long periods of time at a steady low RPM.

That truck just shouts "DAILY DRIVER!" to me.

Well,it's your money and it will or will not be your car,so don't pay a dime more than you think it is worth to you or you will never be happy with it.

My suggestion is "if it ain't broke,don't try to fix it. Don't fall for the "monkey see,monkey do" modifications you see in all the hot rod magazines that make their money from running articles about how to install the items made by the people who buy their advertising space. For a driver quality street ride,there are no advantages to installing a Mustang 2 front suspension,compared to just rebuilding and doing a few minor modifications to the original IFS. If you are swapping in a big block whatever,the rack and pinion steering can cure some clearance problems,but you don't need a frame clip for strength. The original is plenty strong unless it is rusted out,cracked,bent,etc.

NEVER go to a dealership to buy parts unless you are desperate. There are a ton of old cars parts suppliers that will mail you whatever you want,and most will have a reasonable price unless it is some sort of "one year only special order" doodah when the car was new. You pay dearly for that stuff,but you never need any of that stuff for a driver car; Click on the "Resources" link at the top of the page. That's a good place to start,but I've even new bought wheel cylinders from Amazon for 5 bucks each. The key to web searching parts is to have a factory parts manual for your car,and search using factory parts numbers. Sometimes that will lead to OEM parts numbers and that really broadens your possibilities.