knuckleharley

I wouldn't try either. Mineral oil is kinda "clingy",and gasoline has been known to have "the vapors". Do you REALLY want gas fumes in your base pan if your car backfires? Stick with kerosene. People have been using it for engine flushes for 100 years now.

Try Napa or O'Reilly Auto parts. They generally keep them in stock. Advance Auto and other chains will also either have them,or order them for you at no additional charges.. Buy two at a time. That way you always have a spare and don't have to run out and look for one to change the oil.

That's probably the best way to go,anyhow. You can get wider wheels that will work with tubeless tires,and you can go to a crusher yard and buy nice wheels with good tires already mounted and balanced for maybe 10 bucks each. They like to sell them because if they don't,they have to pay someone to dismount the tires from the wheels so they can scrap them.

Old-timers when I was a kid always used kerosene. If some is left in the filter,and there WILL be some left in the filter,it will work to thin and remove any sludge.

HEY! Watch it,buddy! We don't allow that kind of smutty language around here! ?

Never tried or even thought of that,but it sure sounds like a good idea! Like with wimmins,it's all about the vibration.

Ahhhh,my apologies. I didn't know it was a parts car for another 56. BTW,storing one outside under a tarp practically guarantees massive rust out. Sweating and no air circulation.

There is a misunderstanding here,and it seems to be my fault. I was talking about the price of vent window rubber for my 1948 Plymouth coupe in a thread about rubber for my 1937 Dodge ton truck. The truck doesn't even have vent windows. Sorry to all for any misunderstandings.

I understand and agree with quality costs money,but 224 bucks for vent window rubber? When I am ready to buy rubber for the P-15 I will sit down when I am having a "good chemo brain day",and compare lists of P-15 rubber from Roberts,Bernbaum,Steele,and at least one other supplier. If the total money difference because Steele and the others is only 150-200 bucks,I will probably spring for the quality. When you look at the total cost of a complete rebuild,200 bucks one way or another is nothing. Especially when it is a "keeper car" you are spending it on.

IMHO,it would be a crying damn shame to strip out that complete and solid station wagon. Why not just sell it to a restorer,and use the money to put a 318 in your car? MY opinion,and worth every nickel it cost you!

I like the color. Won't show dents or dirt,and when you get in the car in the summer after it has been parked in the sun for a while,it won't be so hot it will bust your brains out.

Thanks,even with chemo brain I remembered Roberts and Steele,but couldn't remember Bernbaum and am pretty sure I never even heard of Clesters before.

I just looked up their website,and they do have rubber for my truck,as well as cab mounts and other items. Thank you for the suggestion! BTW,can ANYBODY afford to buy rubber from Stelle? $224 bucks for the vent window rubber for my P-15 coupe!

Have you tried backing off on the brake shoes and then smacking the outside of the dr bum just enough to set off vibrations? Do NOT use brute force because they idea is to create vibrations to separate a brake shoe from a rusted drum. Can't remember what Mopar brakes look like now,but before you do this go to backing plate and remove/clip any spring hangers there might be there that keep the brake shoes in place,or remove any nuts you might see that would be used to adjust the brakes. Then use the hammer to drive the studs back inside the drum. If that doesn't work,all I can tell you is tighten your puller and then smack the brake drum all over,front and sides,with your BFH to set off vibrations to encourage things to move. Do it,and then go away and let it sit for a hour or two,and come back and do it again. If necessary,let it sit overnight and go back and do the tighten and smack routine until it eventually comes off. Be VERY careful to not let it come off and "get ya" when it does. Put the axle nut back on the axle and tighten it down a few turns before you do ANY of this. When these tough ones finally come off,they seem to REALLY come off.

This was why all the old cars and trucks had such big steering wheels. You could maybe look around for,or make a slightly larger diameter steering wheel to give you more leverage. Maybe something from a truck or bus? This would have to be the cheapest and most practical way to go.

Thanks anyway. Seems like there are lots of people who used to supply old parts no longer in business these days,and it's only going to get worse because there are fewer and fewer pre-1970 cars available to redo every year. I had a couple of good ones bookmarked on my old computer,but the HD died and I didn't back it up. Then I started to get sick and couldn't work anyhow,so I just forgot the names.

Ok,I am starting the redo of my 37 Dodge 1 ton pu. I have no idea what the model number is. All I know is that it was sold new to the city of Newport News,Va as a fire truck,and had a small pumper in the bed. I know this because the brass tag is still on the bed. When I bought it,the body had been mounted on a 72 Ford F-250 4X4 chassis,complete with the 390 Ford engine. When I took the bed off,I discovered the chassis was just about rusted away,so I am putting it on a 78 Dodge Ram-150 4x4 chassis,complete with a crate 318,auto trans,ps,and pb. I am keeping the 3/4 ton differentials,though. I like the bigger brakes,and I like not having to buy new wheels and tires. My major concern at the moment is "where is the best place to buy all the rubber and other trim pieces I need? Stuff like rear window rubber,door rubber,headlight mount rubber,window rubber and felt,etc,etc,etc. I would also like to know the model number. BTW,does anybody have a windshield crank mechanism you want to sell?

My first suggestion would be "You can always give it to me!" If that seems impractical,I suggest you check around with local high school auto shop instructors,community college instructors,and even prisons with auto mechanic courses to see if any of them would be interested in taking them in as mechanical or paint/bodywork projects for their students. IF you can find one,all it will cost you will be parts,and there are people here who can tell you where to find them at the best prices. On top of that you will be doing the students a "solid" by giving them an opportunity to expose themselves to something unique to their current life experiences. If any of the instructors tell you the car is out of date due to no electronics,tell him that engine rebuilds are engine rebuilds,and that bodywork and paint are bodywork and paint. Basic mechanics and basic bodywork and paint are the same,regardless of the "subject". I once bought a 72 Chevy pu from a used car lot in Denver for 75 bucks. Truck was mechanically perfect,but the truck and it's previous owner both had an argument with a brick wall,and the chassis was bent pretty badly. Took it to a Bear Alignment and repair shop in Denver,and the estimate was over 400 bucks in 1978 money. So I called a correctional institute that taught prisoners auto repair,and asked them if they wanted the job and when I could bring it to them. They says "Yes",and "Right away",so I did. Got it back in a couple of week,and the total bill was $12.00. That was to pay for the acetylene and oxygen used,and for the welding rod to repair cracks. They did a first class job,too. I drove that truck for a couple of years,and finally sold it for 500 bucks when I didn't need it anymore.

Well,yeah. Why would ANYBODY want to do that? We do almost all of our driving at speeds below 60 MPH,and at speeds faster than that,the slowest steering is quick. Seems to me akin to shooting yourself in the foot before a dance contest.

I guess it works good? Does it leak more or less with this grease,or can't you tell the difference?

I wonder if it would steer any easier with synthetic grease in it,and if synthetic grease would have any negative effects on the seals?

It's likely your car was sold new without a oil filter canister,and your is an aftermarket one added later on by a different owner.

Those headlights are really bright. Did you convert to 12 volt?

Can you give me the name and model number? Thanks!

That would require me to buy another expensive 6 volt battery that I would almost never use. I can make my own at home 6 volt battery charger using a used 6 volt generator,but it's not very mobile. I wouldn't mind buying a switchable 6v-12v jump starter with USB ports,though.