JBNeal

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great looking buggies...that D600 was a familiar ride-along; Dad had one when I was a kid that hauled grain out of the fields, remember staring at that dash shift decal many times trying to figure it out while riding shotgun

those two slotted screws run the length of the motor and hold the transmission housing to the motor. those cloth covered wires are part of the park circuit...I have a write-up pending that goes into detail about this electrical circuit, with issues to address, a supplemental wiring diagram, and repair details. In short, these wiper motors can be rejuvenated fairly easily by dismantling, cleaning critical areas, rewiring the park circuit with fresh conductors, and filling the transmission with fresh lubricant. There is a leather seal in the transmission that is very tricky to replace, but I think I have that issue solved through trial and error. In total, for less than 20 bucks in materials and some common mechanical and electrical tools, refurbishing these Autolite 6V wiper motor units can be a satisfying weekend project. ?

Dad's 1967 Farmall 1206 and my 1980 International 584 both had factory installed ether injection systems for cold starting the diesel engines...push button that was not easily accessible, solenoid energized to press the stem on a small aerosol can (nozzle removed) that sprayed directly into intake manifold...half second shot, and them old diesels would fire right up in sub-freezing weather. On gasoline engines, we would shoot a full second down a carb throat to get fire on a stubborn engine...worked well there too, except on fuel-fouled spark plugs; if the engine didn't fire right away, it was time to pull a few spark plugs to clean them up and try again, which usually did the trick. Rarely used the ether in above freezing temps unless infrequently used engine was being ornery, but that little shot got'm back in business purty quick. Anything more than a hit of ether was a big no-no...rules to live by ?

yessiree that looks like a re-cored radiator...the original core had the honeycomb structure. additional information - radiator identification for non-pressurized systems

these flatheads were designed to be rebuilt with ample material available for block and head machining...the block would have to be really trashed by a thrown rod or cracking to be discarded. It takes a fair amount of work, but as Merle illustrated, these flatheads can be revived...I've done a few with varying levels of difficulty, still amazed that it can be done with the modern disposable engines that are prevalent.

plunger down: check valve, carb side closes; check valve, tank side opens; diaphragm draws fuel into pump plunger up: check valve, tank side closes; check valve, carb side opens; diaphragm pushes fuel into carb I reckon if'n ya got a fuel line restriction, that could approximate a check valve

what manual are ya referring to?

another wonderful copy and paste job

congratulations on the new addition ? one of the benefits of staying organized is that if ya have to stop in the middle of something, you can pick up where ya left off fairly quickly...I have a few bays at several places of gonna-get-round-to-its, that when asked I can humorously rattle off what's left to do, how much it will cost, and how long it will take...it's taken a lotta practice but I've gotten the hang of it...the latest is the carb rebuild for a John Deere GT235e, parts are 3 weeks out so all the removed parts are stacked up and ready to go back on, any day now

I have rehabilitated my 1976 Maytag washer and dryer for a fraction of replacement cost, to the surprise of several ppl, my parents included. So they asked me to look at their 11 yr old Kenmore washer, did a test and it made an odd noise, so I tried moving it away from the wall when something inside the cabinet went *CRUNCH* and brown flakes showered onto the floor...yep it was rusting out, no point in fixing it. They were researching replacements and found Maytag made a washer and dryer that looked very close to them 76ers so they ordered them...I installed for them and found that the new models were basically the same Heavy Duty models as the 76ers, with updated knobs and controls and not near as heavy to jockey around...also quieter running, and the dryer does not require the user to stand on their head to clean the lint trap

I learned a lesson with the 98 Subaru that I inherited several years ago: coolant changes pH over time. On modern engines, this has a deleterious effect on the super thin head gaskets that can cause them to fail. On older engines, that water pump impeller is the weak spot as already mentioned. On the antique engines, the radiator might suffer from corrosion. Knowing this, Dad bought a 10 yr old cab tractor that was stored in a barn and rarely used. I told him that cooling system needed going through, and we were both surprised by the amount of chocolate milk that came out of the rad and block drains. Hoses were getting hard, and thermostat had signs that it was sticking., so they got replaced as well. My philosophy on coolant is to use the mfg requirements as a guide since they try to scare the ignorant into slightly excessive maintenance. Modern engines with 2 yr intervals I stretch to 3 or 4, depending on usage and coolant appearance...teeny tiny brown dots in a sample after operation tells me it's time for a flush. Older equipment that gets light use, like my Pilot-House buggies, get the 5-7 year treatment, and that's mainly because I am replacing hoses that are starting to get hard; Peak green in them old things. New vehicles that have that 100k interval or 10yr OAT, well I haven't messed with those yet...but that day is approaching...

A few weeks ago, the engineering team was headed out to our Friday ritual of lunch together, this time being my turn to drive and we were headed to a top notch local pizza joint. I typically park further away from the ofc entrance, but one of the welders has an almost identical Ram 1500 that he parks within spitting distance to the door. Our millennial mfg engineer has a tendency to overlook details, and so as the group was exiting the building, he called shotgun so I walked towards the welder's truck and held up the fob in a hand motion to unlock the doors...the whippersnapper looked confused as the rest of us were walking away from that truck chuckling while he unsuccessfully attempted to open the shotgun door, then he sees my truck parked in my usual spot 50 feet away, with lights flashing as I unlocked them doors remotely...I then pointed out that he was disqualified from riding shotgun for attempting to get into the wrong truck, and he felt shame...briefly...then sucked it up and devoured 2 slices of pepperoni that were each as big as his face, so he got over it

I know of several specialty shops in my area that have closed because of owner retirement due to health (failing vision, bad back, arthritis the main culprits) ...owners tried to sell, but no takers as overhead costs outweighed business volume...one machine shop mostly scrapped his equipment because most was quite old and well worn, too expensive to repair properly...tis a durn shame but that's the business side of the hobby industry.

additional information - X Model

#1: thems filister head screws, definitely not metric #2: look into Power Wagon disc brake conversion for ideas if'n ya want to go that route #3: additional information - stock dual horns #4: that oil filter canister looks like a Purolator, similar to the Deluxe Products filter canister. Since the screw head is stamped, ya do not want to go all caveman and brute force that thing off. There is probably crud deposited on the threads that need to be broken free, not sure that can be done with the canister on the block. It might be possible to remove the canister and submerge in a bucket of diesel or kerosene for a few weeks while other work is being done. Take a small stiff wire to the inlet and outlet ports after removing the fittings carefully (additional information - Deluxe Products Corporation Oil Filters) to clean out any crud so that the diesel or kerosene can penetrate the canister innards. Take a stab at tightening that screw before trying trying to loosen it every few days, so any crud on the threads might break free. additional information - bypass spin-on filter installation additional information - bypass spin-on filter installed #5: looks like a grab iron was there, removed then holes covered with OTC chrome plugs...or maybe it had a semaphore...

On Express models, almost all 48s will have the rear fenders that line up with the departure angle line of the bed; very late 48s and all 49s will have the rear fender that extends beyond the departure angle line. B-2s will look just like '49 B-1s, the giveaway will be the amp gauge that changed from 35 to 50...also, column shift 3pd 1st appeared, so did the 2 little mounting holes in the hood for the optional Fluid Drive badge under the side DODGE logos. B-3 changed grille, hood, and door crease, dash layout, steering wheel, door handles...51s have a bolt-on bracket for the hood prop; 52s have the bracket integrated into the hood reinforcement. B-4s purty much the same as B-3s except DODGE logo on the dash instead of stainless bar...Express models have the formed fenders that were used up until '85. additional information - Pilot-House Cab differences

additional information - fuel tank installation additional information - tank bracket modification

additional information - Pilot-House body dimensions

optional flathead oil filters originally came in two designs: disposable sealed canisters and heavy duty replaceable element canisters the sealed canister required tools to replace, which required disconnecting oil lines the replaceable element did not require removal of oil lines to replace, which could reduce service times additional information - sealed canister oil filter additional information - heavy duty replaceable element oil filter

Hang in there bro...every little bit helps ??

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additional information - speedometer cable routing

additional information - oil canister lid sealing

That brass plug is probably a peened over pin...your presumption to grind off the button head and drive the pin out sounds correct to me. I had wondered where Smith got his numbers for checking critical dimensions... eventually found the same measurements and verification procedure in the '48 B-series shop manual.