JBNeal

the engines I have rebuilt were done because fluid loss/consumption had increased to the point where the engine could not be run safely for extended periods (oil pouring out of crank seals, coolant blowing out exhaust pipe, etc.) The engines still had power, but overheating and mechanical damage was a concern so that I would not put a full load or hard throttle on them. As far as flathead reliability, it might be important to note that these engines have been out of production for decades, yet there are quite a few still around, which may speak to their reliability. From my experience, Chrysler engines can hold up if properly maintained; it's what else is on the vehicle that usually poops out first. For example, some folks try to convert to 12V to make the vehicle more reliable, but the underlying problem with their 6V system was their degraded wiring. Another example is upgrading a rear axle to a modern unit (with more readily available brake parts and a highway friendly axle ratio) to make the vehicle more usable, even if the original axle only needed some refurbishing to make it reliable albeit a little slow. So reliability may be more of a function of personal usage and original system degradation (or replacement quality) than of the engine itself

Something I learned before I was driving age was that race car engines are rebuilt after every race, if they don't blow up or throw a rod or whuthavya...and I knew several older folks who had cars & trucks that were over 20 yrs old they never got in a hurry and they followed their maintenance charts religiously...so going fast is fun for a little while, but slow & steady wins the race

That tool was used by professionals who worked on flatheads all day long for a living...for the hobbyist rebuilding an engine, it's function can be approximated with the wood dowel, non-insulated copper wire, a metal coat hanger, etc. That shop manual tells you why TDC is needed for ignition timing; it is a simple procedure that requires care in accomplishing...the numbers on the large gauge face are an indication to the professional where the piston is along its stroke and speeds up the TDC location procedure. Look at the tool more closely and you'll notice what appears to be spark plug threads on one end and "coil and spark tester" on the gauge face with the horizontal numbered scale...this would suggest a second function of this tool to fine tune the distributor after TDC is located. This can be approximated with the static timing found in the Tech Tips section (road timing if'n ya want an adventure)

Additional Information - Window Frame Welting

additional information - Bed Strips

that hole over #6 is to check for TDC

additional information - links to build threads

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Route Van on the FB

I do not see a casting date on the head, so I am not sure what is going on there. My interpretation is that flathead block was cast November 20, 1950, first hour day shift. The crankshaft p/n appears to be 952068; according to my B-series truck parts manual, the crankshaft for the truck engines was 952066...maybe your crankshaft was from a car engine? The stamped serial number on the block could give a clue as to what is going on with the engine with some deciphering

would ya care to elaborate, preferably with side-by-side comparison, as to correctness...?

Have ya tried SD Spring?

have ya tried a gasket sealant?

on one adventurous summer Saturday night several years ago, I took the '48 onto I-35 for a 2-mile stretch, got the speedo up to 70 (don't know how accurate that was), and that ol' truck was vibrating through the floorboards something fierce (as most of the original cardboard interior insulation is gone)...it seems more comfortable around 50, especially when stomping on the brakes (FYI that's a stock 230 3spd w/ 4.10 rear)

I tried this, then heard about this, so now I do this

the second spring argument again... according to the parts manual, there is a spring on the bell crank (14-14-1: 640 407) and a spring for the throttle return (14-06-1: 1088 169) that is routed to the floorboard...the assumption is that THIS is the original setup. I am assuming that the second spring was added as needed as part of some sort of service bulletin to address wear along the throttle linkage...after all, it is only a gdspring

Water Pump Info

I had planned on doing the rework on The Money Pit in a manner similar to what you are doing here: remove front sheet metal & engine; send engine block to machine shop for rework; disassemble the bed and stack the panels outdoors to be finished last; cleanup & repair rear axle & suspension; tilt cab back to the rear of the frame to cleanup cab bottom (maybe with roll-on bedliner) and frame section; cleanup front frame & suspension; test rebuilt engine & transmission before installation; etc. etc. etc....this approach takes up less shop space and allows for parallel work to be done as weather allows. Powertrain work, sheet metal work and initial paint can be done in a smaller indoor space, the frame can be cleaned up outdoors as it does not have to be perfect (who's gonna see it when it's all put together?). The 500 gallon LPG tank that I reworked 4 yrs ago outdoors still looks as good as it did when I finished, so that has been my test case that has proven that this method works as long as things are kept clean. Painting was done with a foam roller, and the entire project cost less than $50. Final paint for the entire truck can be done in an adequately sized indoor space, taking up much less time inside the shop space, allowing other projects to occupy the shop as needed

additional information - Man in the High Tower

I have been swapping stories with Dave over the years before & after he dropped off of this forum. He sent me his notes on roller paint jobs, and we went back & forth on the specifics when I was refinishing my 500 gallon LPG tank a few summers ago...I had to scale back that job cuz at the halfway point, his methods were yielding such good results that the shine off of that tank in the summer sun was becoming a blinding nuisance to passersby, something he found amusing. I had not heard from him in a few months and began to wonder if he had moved on as he mentioned something about not getting any younger...his passing saddens me and he will be missed

contact cement is used in fully adhered rubber roof systems

the original wiring diagram shows voltage connected to the horn, with the horn button acting as the ground contact switch and no relay involved. If you follow the path to ground from the horn button, continuity has to pass through at least one bearing, the steering gearbox case, the frame, and several bolt connections before getting to the transmission case where the battery was originally grounded. Over time, corrosion can increase the impedance at these locations, decreasing horn effectiveness, especially in the original 6V setup. I put together a modified wiring diagram that shows a separate ground wire that would have to be installed to a modified horn button that could bypass all of those connections with a clear path to ground. At some point I may get back to finalizing this horn button modification, but until then it's just pie in the sky

the larger openings would allow for more flow which can boost filtration rate and heat transfer...I think the gauge pressure would drop slightly at low RPMs but the increased flow would offset this; pressure at higher RPMs I believe would still be regulated as with the original pump

Updated Build Record Information Request

US War Dept Build Card info

I have several of that horn on the left, but I don't know for sure where they came from (cain't get any of them to work either)...the horn on the right looks similar to the B-series horn, which can be had in a dual horn setup