JBNeal

The dual horns I snagged are similar to the set posted, but this one popped up on eBay back in '09 and it looks similar to a set I saw in a Bunn book

B-1 vacuum wiper arm on the left (sorta) ===>> <<=== B-1 electric wiper arm on the right additional information - electric and vacuum wiper motor comparison

additional information - Chrysler "Coming Home" Commercial

paint it any color ya want, a slammed S-10 is a rolling speed bump

additional information - bullseye halogen conversion

maybe they sweated some old lead wheel weights in there prior to paint

The B&B carbs were plentiful on the 1/2 tons with the 218, as the Strombergs were standard on the 1-tons with the 230. The Stromberg setup has the fuel filter bowl that is outboard of the manifold heating, where as the B&B setup has the fuel filter bowl over the manifold heating. My '48 1/2 ton has a 230 in it with the B&B, and it seems to have better throttle response than the Stromberg in my '49 1-ton with its 230. I'm almost certain this is due to the vacuum advance in the 1/2 ton distributor; the 1-ton distributor only has a mechanical advance. My experience is that the B&B is more prone to fouling than the Stromberg...this has manifested each time I've had the trucks sit for an extended period, as the Stromberg seems to free up immediately whereas the B&B sputters for awhile before the fresh gas cleans out the passages. So either works as long as they are fairly clean & set properly

I would say to clean out all of the crud as best as you can, then apply a rust dissolver to stop the damage...but if you apply a seam sealer now, how would you do a full repair in the future with the sealer in place?

about a year ago, I inherited another basket case, this time in the form of a '98 Subaru Outback with a blown head gasket & a lot of original rubber that was rotting. I put a lot of work into that car, and now it can be driven anywhere comfortably. But what I learned about that compact design is that working on that stuffed engine compartment can only be done if ya imagine ya are peeling an onion, cuz that's purty much how most everything has to be worked on: by removing items in a sequence to gain access. I didn't think it was possible, but the heads on that Subaru can be removed with the engine in the car...it can be done only after certain items are removed, and then the heads can only be removed from the car in a certain way (a lot of salty language sorta helps). I have removed the starters from the '48 & '49 more than once, and the '48 has the slot cut into the bolt heads to speed things up. I scoffed at the idea, but removing the floorboards is the easiest & fastest way to pull the starter. I think the last time I did this, it took about 5 minutes to pull the floorboards, then less than 10 minutes to pull the starter out from inside the cab. Of course I'm kindofa contortionist, so I can wiggle in & out of the cab floor fairly quickly. I don't know if this would help with a modified master cylinder setup, but floorboard removal for service is one of the most helpful things I have learned from this forum

here's the envelopes for the rings:

NOSpart: 1450124 Piston Ring Set Chrome Master Ring Set purchased on eBay back in '03 for about 20 bucks...they were in pristine condition, so I put them in the '49 1-ton when I rebuilt that 230

aside from the lower torque that can be applied to these, if'n the wrench strips out, then ya be really screwed

SURVIVOR: this'n popped up on FB

has it been almost 9 years since this board started? time flies, I reckon...although I believe there was a different forum that predated this that I may have participated on 16 yrs ago but I may be thinking of something else

that rim style was used on '48-'53 for sure, I think the clips changed in '57 as the hubcaps changed with the overall redesign...looking at the parts manual for the B-series, it lists 15 x 5.5 for the 3/4-tons, my guess is that it may be from '54-56

if you're gonna keep'm both, I'd suggest finishing the daily driver first...if you can pull that off, then ya have one to drive while finishing the restore job. Also, if you lose interest in the daily driver project (I have lost count of how many have done so on this site alone in the last 5 yrs; rescued a couple from the scrap heap myself), then you can cut your losses as the restore job has its own challenges as to how original you want to keep things. You can always park'm in front of the house & call'm yard art, that's what I've done with a few of my rescue projects

the last time I saw a spark plug lose an electrode was on my John Deere 425 with the Kawasaki 2cyl. It had developed a startup problem that took me over 5 years to diagnose because it was so intermittent...one day it would fire right up, another day it would take a lot of cranking with a backfire after cranking before it would fire. Each year, the problem would get progressively worse, but no easy fix from diagnosis was apparent from the shop manual. I had narrowed it down to a couple of safety start switches that would pass their diagnostic tests, but after the engine stopped running one evening and I had to drag the machine onto a trailer to get it home, I took a shot & replaced both of the switches and, lo & behold, the problem went away. Evidently, the original switches, when they got to be around 17 yrs old, were corroding internally, and the heat & vibration from operation would vary their effectiveness. Anyhow, the Champion plugs didn't fare too well from the intermittent backfires at startup, as one electrode was badly burned and the other lost the electrode and a good chunk of the porcelain. NGKs only needed to be re-gapped every few hours after I would notice the gradual power loss when climbing hills. I rebuilt the motor a couple of years after solving the long cranking + backfire problem to replace the nylon timing geared camshaft with a steel geared camshaft, and I was not able to locate any damage from the electrode loss. After over 100 hrs of operation on the rebuild, the engine is more powerful than when I bought the machine 15 yrs ago, is good on gas & does not leak or burn oil, so I am inclined to think that the debris was blown out of the combustion chamber uneventfully. As for the rusty spark plugs, I've had the '48 & '49 parked inside a pole barn and the plugs would get rusty. My assumption, from what I saw on humid, cool mornings, was that condensation was the cause for the rust on the plugs. The porcelain would stay cold as the humid day would warm, condensation would form on the porcelain to the point where it would puddle while the heads appeared to sweat, the moisture would boil off in the afternoon heat, exposing the new rust, then nighttime cooling would start the process all over again. As long as the plugs were working, I figured this was normal

Interstate...

I think ya need sodium carbonate (washing soda), not the same as sodium bicarbonate, in order to the flow of electrons to initiate...Stovebolt's electrolysis instructions are printed up and ready to be tried, as soon as I can get caught up on this that & the other

When it comes to explaining computer usage remotely, it's like trying to tell someone how to tie a shoe...if ya write out the steps in tying a shoe, it reads very confusing, but once ya try it out a few times, it becomes second nature

fwiw I was in the middle of putting together a step-by-step with screen shots while at work but the phone rang and 7 hrs later it's still stuck in my head. I'll add that I have to reduce the picture size before attaching a file...to do this, I open the file from its directory with MS Office Picture Manager, click on Edit Pictures, click on Resize, then click on the dropdown menu to the 640x480 size, then click OK, then Save As, renaming the file so I do not overwrite the original (e.g., 49DodgeEngine.jpg becomes sm49DodgeEngine.jpg). It seems like a lot of tedious work, but once you get the hang of it, it's not a big deal. The alternative method is to share the file on a image hosting site, which can be easier but the problem with that is your files have to stay organized or the links will be broken, and folks don't like that

VINTAGEPIC: I saw this B-1-HA from a few years ago while searching for something else

additional truck picture thread - B-3

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the FB

brake & fuel line routing at engine compartment