1950 Special Deluxe

Ground was not attached, it did ground thru the box. It was in a basement Rumpus Room, moisture was not an issue. As per code the ground should have been attached. What happened in this case, was that the previous owner had added some receptacles (plugs) in the area and fished a 3rd wire into the box. 1 of the screws (both hot and neutral) had been loosened and then a 2nd wire added to each of them. When the screw was tightened, the 1st wire was squeezed out and over time with the heating and cooling of the copper conductor from loads being turned on and off the wire was making contact and after getting hot the copper wire would "flow" away from the screw. After cooling off it would make contact again. It would have then got progressively worse.

Welcome from Saskatchewan. I have a 1950 Dodge Special Deluxe. (Canadian version) It is mostly original as well. I redid the interior out of necessity, other than that it is stock.

My thought would be a loose connection on the plug, possibly “quick wired”. -wires just stuck into the back of the plug, not stripped and wrapped around the screws. -wires should be wrapped around the screws clockwise so they get tighter when you tighten the screw. When you plug something in, the loose connection sparks but never overloads the circuit to trip the breaker. Picture from my Sister in Law’s house.

Up here, we call them Prairie Oysters.

RIP Bob will live on in our memories and stories.

Terrible news. Bob was also one of the first people to welcome me here as well. He sent me a 6 volt fan that attached to the steering wheel and blew on the windshield. He was a great addition to this group and a friend to many. His family has my thoughts. Neil

He mentions that he drug it down from Canada. I believe all Canadian engines were the 25” block.

Point taken.

Shaune, Don’t give up yet. You are close. I still need that side by side picture of our cars. I am surprised that you have the ball and trunnion U Joints. My 50 Dodge had the regular U Joints, they crossed over to an early Corvette number. Good Luck Neil

On its way

No problem. I will get them in the mail today. Neil

I have 2 blanks left over from a previous truck I had. PM your address and I will send them to you.

Doesn’t make it go faster, but I think it’s cool. And you don’t have to open the hood to see it.

Congratulations on the new job. I made a similar move 16 years ago when my boys were young. I left a construction/Maintance job where I had apprenticed as an electrician and had been there for almost 17 years. I was on a large research project and they offered me a position, the only catch was that it started as a term. My wife and I had several discussions about the risk vs reward. I took the job and it was the 2nd best decision I made, the best decision I made was proposing to my wife.

I have a hybrid bicycle as well. I ride to work as much as possible, weather permitting. Usually April 1 to November 1, bus in winter. About 3.5 miles each way, mostly trails. At 7 miles per day I average about 700 to 800 miles a season. Parking where I work is about $80 a month, that money goes in my "Toy" account.

+1 to dpollo He helped me out with my 1950 Dodge as well. He gave me some valuable advice and with his help my car went from a _O_GE on the front hood to a DODGE.

All right, finally a question I know something about. Back in the day, most services were 60 amps or less. The load miser was usually hooked up so the stove took precedence over the dryer. Supper was more important than dry clothes. Not sure about elsewhere, but they were very common in Saskatchewan. I have seen/removed many in my 30 years of electrical work. They are no longer necessary in most applications, but they work well.

Neil, Good to see back on the site and making progress. I have not done much more to my 50 in the last year, I am at a spot where I am happy with it. I restored a 1978 Vespa last year and now am working on a 1967 Honda 90 bike. Neil

Here is what I did. I rewired the light itself as the sketch shows. The picture of the limit switch is kind of hidden, but it operates off the throttle rod. The brake switch turns on the brake lights, the red light in the traffic signal and pulls in the relay. This opens the normally closed contacts, thereby turning off the yellow(amber) light. If I remove my foot from the brake, the red light goes off and the yellow light turns on. If I push down on the gas pedal, the limit switch returns on turns the green light on. If I depress the gas and the brake, the brake light overrides the green light. Seems to work.

I mounted mine in the rear window. It came without the cover that slid over the gas pedal. I rewired it. I used a 6 volt relay and a NO/NC limit switch on the rod going to the carb from the gas pedal. I will look for my diagram and post this weekend.

I am back to work and talked to our machinist and he is not able to commit to making more at this time. If that changes in the future, I will revisit it then. Neil

Here is a picture of the sketch supplied by busycoupe with the 1750 tool he sold me. Also in the picture are the the parts produced by a machinist at my work. I don't need the Ford parts but the next owner (after I'm gone) might.

I will check with him and see if he is interested. I will take some pictures of what I have tomorrow. I am off next week so it will take some time before I talk to him.

I recently purchased an Ammco 1750 tool off of a member of this site for a fair price Thanks again. It did not have the additional parts to work on Fords, didn't matter. But, he did include detailed drawings with dimensions of the missing pieces. I was able to get 1 of our machinists at work to make the missing components. I do not need them, but I like to have things complete. After I am gone, the next guy may need them. Thanks again to Dave. Neil