Dan Hiebert

I think my grandpa and uncle took it as a challenge to see how long they could keep the truck running and at least marginally useful without spending any money on it. While I can admire their ingenuity, I've also had to deal with older vehicles that I found I could make run and drive significantly better by re-fixing something that was shade-tree engineered. I tend to keep our "newer" vehicles fixed with good parts, but am not beyond engineering something that works when need be. I know what you mean with parts availability, we had a 2001 Dodge PU that I was having trouble finding brand/model specific parts for. We bought it new, so I took it kinda personally when the parts counter kid thought it was too old. FWIW - I've had good luck with AutoZone's Duralast electrical parts.

My uncle had a '68 Dodge pickup for the longest time. The ignition switch went out sometime in the '80s, shortly after the truck was relegated to only making trips to the town dump. So my grandpa, being the frugal type, didn't see the need to install a new switch on the family garbage truck and fixed it by using a two prong electric plug for the starter. Turn ignition on, touch the prongs together, and lo-and-behold, the truck started...every time. It was offered to me once in the '90s (my uncle finally had to decide, junk-yard...or nephew) and I ever so briefly pondered rescuing it, but I recall that it was way too rusty for my capabilities at the time, had too much "frugal engineering" by then, and it was too far away for my means.

Attending High School in Presidio, TX (quite a while ago) I "self-employed" myself one summer changing pads and repairing swamp coolers around town. Most were on the roof. Although self imposed and lucrative for a teenager, it is hands down the worst job I've ever had.

I bought one of those a couple years ago for the shop. Most days I don't need the cooling, but from the back of the 50' shop it moves enough air on low to keep the bugs out so I can keep the garage door open. I've never run it on medium or high, almost have to open all the windows to do so, or else it'll suck them in... Good value in my book, as well.

Closely examine those contacts before you do anything. If they are clean, there is no need to do anything. They may have a bit of accumulation on them from the constant open/close cycles, if so, just as you mention, pull a sheet of paper between the points. Personally, I wouldn't use contact cleaner if the innards are as pristine as you say. Regardless of the benefits, you'll still be introducing liquid, albeit briefly, into things that have been dry for 72 years. Now's a good time to clean and paint the cover, too. Make it last all that much longer.

Not only am I familiar with southern Illinois dead ends, I graduated HS in Presidio, TX, where what used to be billed as the "longest dead end road in Texas" started - HWY 170 west to Ruidosa (Texas, sometimes confused with Ruidoso, NM, though it's hard to see how). We got bugs here in northern Maine, and it seems that most of them bite, and the bigger ones scoff at any bug repellent with less than 25% DEET. Maybe one week of uncomfortable summer weather.

Umm...

Oldest European thing around here is the French settlement site on St. Croix Island in the St. Croix river near Calais, ME, circa 1604. There are still some stone foundations on the site. Oldest surviving building in Aroostook County is close by, the Blackhawk Putnam Tavern in Houlton, built in 1813. Oldest thing I have is a late 1700s immigrant trunk that my great grandparents brought to the US when they immigrated from Finland in the 1800s. I thought that was "old" until I visited antique shops when I was stationed in West Germany, and the proprietors explained that things in Europe weren't really considered old or antique unless they were at least couple hundred years old.

Yep, northern Maine roads tend to be so bad that when a road gets repaved folks will drive to it just to cruise a smooth ride for a bit. I know I do. Only thing I think is keeping new traffic down is that ours is a dead end road, ends three miles past our house. People have been zipping up and down it for sure, but no-one has been patching out on it...yet. Still, much quieter even with "speeders" and a little more traffic - no ruts, cracks, patches, potholes, heaves, etc. to make suspensions, body mounts, tires, etc. sound off in protest.

...I'm still closer to you than anyone else on the Forum who lives in the U.S.

...the State finally resurfaced the road our house is on. Despite how much we like this place, I always cringed whenever I took the ol' D24, Terraplane, or Beetle out because of how bad "B Rd." had become. Some spots were 10-20 mph or else. We put WW radials on the D24 last month and really couldn't tell how much of an improvement they were on our road, had to go the 4.5 miles to the main road before the improvement kicked in. Took the D24 to Houlton's July 4 "People Parade" ( the regular Independence Day parade was cancelled, so "the people" improvised our own socially-distant-traffic-rule-following-no-need-for-a-permit parade), an "Independence Loop" six-miles through town. It was a hoot, lot's of folks out, lots of cars and trucks in the parade, and our D24 was the oldest participant and got lots of thumbs-up and nice comments. It was the ol' girl's first trip on the new road.

I appreciate subtle changes to the original designs as well. Supposedly, when everyone else was making their cars sleeker, ol' Walter P. himself insisted that a gentleman should be able to wear his hat while in Chrysler product cars, therefore, that roofline that caused MoPars of the time to be considered "stodgy" - despite his design folks attempts to convince him otherwise. I think of that every time I see early '50s MoPars, and appreciate the thought Walter put into them...but I also still think they look a bit clunky. But, that's also part of the charm...

I installed an aftermarket bourbon tube temperature gauge in our D24 many years ago (because I destroyed the original bulb when I removed the head once). I just mounted the gauge under the dash where I can see it easily. Inexpensive, and you have the protection of knowing the temp your car is running at until/if you put an original one back in. Just about any auto parts store will have them, either in the shop or on line. Do not blow into the tube to test, it uses a very subtle amount of pressure change from the ether in the system to work. It's been a while since I viewed any tutorials on repairing a bourbon tube gauge, but the way to test them is to immerse the bulb in water and heat the water. Water boils at 212, so when it starts boiling, that's where the gauge should read, if necessary, adjust the needle as TodFitch notes.

I'll refer to Sniper's comment, you've got air, and you've got spark...you're not getting fuel to the cylinders. You've exhausted all means to ensure you have the right timing and ignition to theoretically get the car to start. You also said you had some "minor coughs". Sounds like a fuel issue, or lack thereof. You mentioned your car(buretor) sat dry for over a year. Hooking a gas can up to the carb does not ensure proper fuel delivery to the cylinders. You're carb sat dry for over a year, it's quite possible something in there dried up, loosened up some crud, clogged jets, accelerator pump, etc. I'd remove the carb and ensure everything is clean and clear, and the gaskets are good, i.e., rebuild it. You could look down the throat to see if there is a spray of fuel when the accelerator is opened, but that is hit or miss. Or, and this can be a bit dangerous, just pour a shot of gas down the throat and try to start it right afterwards. If it starts (it won't run long) then you have a carburetor problem.

My mom tells a similar story about her Dad's '38 Buick. This was in the early '50s, so the car wasn't a spring chicken. She was hanging partially out the front passenger window when he made a turn and the door she was playing on opened. She said she knew better because that door would occasionally open when they hit a good bump while turning, and her Dad was scolding her. So the door was open, and she was hanging in the window. Of course, the inertia of stopping the car held the door open until the car stopped. She thought it was loads of fun, her Dad wasn't pleased. My Mom is the youngest of 7 siblings, and was apparently the hellion of the family...not by her account...but by my grandma's.

Our car runs fine, too, and does the same thing once in a while. Although I find it a bit strange that it's only #3, I've never worried about tracking it down, and all the plugs are torqued down correctly. But it's not the air filter, ours does not have an oil bath air filter. Perhaps some blow-by through the valve guides, and it's #3 because it's closest to the intake/carb? I know the valves are worn.

Nice ride! Especially since your Dad can enjoy driving it. I like fender skirts, but I don't care for those kind. I think the ones that fit inside the wheel opening are more attractive and don't make the car look as clunky. If that were my car, the only other thing I'd change is that grill, or lack thereof.

Same basic issues with trucks as with cars. But one of the things I've found over the years is that trucks tended to get more beat up than cars just through their everyday use, because that is what they were made for. Repairs sometimes tended to be "field expedient" if a visit to the shop meant too much down-time, and if it worked, was often not redone. I.e., spot welding body panels together when nuts and bolts fell out. Nothing you can't handle judging from the work you've done on that '49. The opportunity to score 2 or 3 Power Wagons is awesome, you'll probably never get that opportunity again.

I bought new vent window seals for our D24 from Andy Bernbaum. This was several years ago and no issues yet, although our car is rarely out in the rain to fully test them. Good fit.

VW still uses a 5 cylinder inline. The 2013 Beetle I had for a while had one it it, that's what the Jetta uses as well. VW was using that inline 5 technology back when they switched the Vanagon from the aircooled engine to a liquid cooled one, in the mid '80's at least. That Beetle I had ran well and got decent gas mileage, but it was underpowered. Did just fine with just me in it, but had trouble on hills with a passenger...kinda like the '70 Beetle I have now, come to think of it.

I'll jump in here, too. I had the tank on our Terraplane cleaned out and sealed at a reputable radiator shop in Tonawanda, NY. Going on ten years and no issues. The liner they use now withstands ethanol. I think "reputable" is key, this shop had been in business since the '50s, and the son of the original owner did the work. A good shop can tell you whether or not the tank needs to be lined after they clean it, generally, if there is/was any rust at all inside the tank, they'll recommend lining it regardless of how clean they get it. If the tank leaks, I'll echo that you should get a "new" one.

I rebuilt our D24's steering box several years ago. Only hard part was finding the major parts (sector shaft, and steering shaft with worm gear). Ours was quite sloppy, it wouldn't respond to proper adjustment and needed the complete rebuild. It does not even hint of leaking now. If yours is still relatively tight and is only leaking, then all you need to do is replace the sector shaft seal, available from a few sources listed in the links directory. (I got the rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum.) You should remove it, and will have to take it apart to replace that seal anyway, and can check the condition of the sector shaft and end gasket/shims, and go from there if it needs more work. There are sources to rebuild the one you have, and/or there may be rebuilt boxes available from those same vendors. Leaving the search for parts up to the rebuilder may be worth it in the long run, but if all that needs replacing is the seal, then that's a DIY project. Many folks herein use and recommend corn head grease, I do not. My personal preference is to use what the steering box was engineered to use - 90wt gear oil.

Happy Anniversary! But...who's the skinny guy in the photo next to the pretty bride?

If I recall correctly, the issue with Firestones on the Fords was that they were being run underinflated. Since someone had to be blamed, the higher courts in a class action suit decided the majority percentage of fault was with Ford and Firestone, instead of the owners, although some lower courts did find fault with owners on some individual cases. Firestone bore responsibility because the tires shouldn't have failed like they did, even being run underinflated. This is what led to the nitrogen in tires thing, not better mileage. Tires stay inflated to PSI better with nitrogen because the molecules are bigger. My Beetle calls for 18 psi on front, and 27 psi on the rear, but the car only weighs 1900 lbs. (2100 with me in it). When I had new tires mounted on it a few years ago, the shop put the max psi in them, and the car rode like an ox-cart until I put the correct psi in the tires. Our D24 weighs a tad less than 3000 lbs, which is why I'm interested in whether the 35 psi is appropriate , because the tires won't need to be inflated for max load (they're Coker Classics), which I haven't checked to see what that is...yet. I'll do the chalk method to start, if that works out I won't fret about it any more other than maybe doing some calculating out of curiosity...even though I don't like math very much. Very interesting conversations here, thanks for all the interest and responses!

Roger that - to check that the full width of the tread is making full contact?