BobT-47P15

Paint Details Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods

Here is an article by Allpar about the 54 Plymouths.......don't know if it contains any helpful info, but here it is: https://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1946-1959/54-plymouth-cars.html

They charge car entry fees at most shows around here in southwest Missouri. Like others.....some goes for charity, some for production costs of the show. $10 to $20 fees are common, with small discount for early registration. I usually go to two fall shows, one of which is the largest in this part of the country, and have a good time viewing others cars and visiting with folks. We have a cruise-in here every weekend on the parking lot of various businesses.....no admission fee, music by a DJ at some, sometimes a trophy or two perhaps to a car chosen by an employee of the business simply because they like it. That's fine. There are numerous other shows all around our area.....you can attend as many as you wish to and want to pay for. It's true, like Tim said, you are kinda stuck in a show till they give out trophies. At the cruises you can come and go at will. Usually when we take the Plymouth to one of these area events, it is the only 40s or 50s Mopar there. I did see a blue 1951 or 52 Plymouth business coupe at a cruise in recently.....did not get to visit with the owner so don't know that story yet. There were a father and son I met a few years ago.....each had a 40 or 41 Plymouth coupe, one pretty stock, the other a bit of a hot rod.....kind of a cool deal. I think they are still around here somewhere. I don't know how this group of pages ended up here, but I can't figure out how to get it out......so please just ignore it.

Now there are the new radial wide whitewalls (3 inch white) that look like the old skinny bias ply tires. Have you checked into those. About $250 each....from Coker or Universal..

As I recall, the man at Hydro E Lectric company in Florida said Cadillac used a vacuum system sometime during the 1940s. They supposedly can get cylinders, and perhaps parts......not sure about that. You would have to call them.

There was a young man on here some time back who went by Moose, and he made exhaust manifolds (headers). Don't know if he is participating here any more.

Do you have one of the originals as a sample? There are some universal type clips as used by auto body shops available in many shapes and sizes. Probably one or two that would attach your trim, even if they do not look original. Some can be trimmed to the needed size. Are you acquainted with any Dodge parts vendors either personally or through eBay or other sources? They might either have some or tell where they think a person should look.

I have also read that putting some Neatsfoot Oil into the wiper motor, similar to what the video said about brake fluid, will soften up the leather in there also. Neatsfoot Oil is used to soften, condition and preserve leather items. Copy of a part of one article on neatsfoot: Neatsfoot oil is used on a number of leather products, although it has been replaced by synthetic products for certain applications. Items such as baseball gloves, saddles, horse harnesses and other horse tack can be softened and conditioned with neatsfoot oil. If used on important historical objects, neatsfoot oil (like other leather dressings) can oxidize with time and contribute to embrittling.[7] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it may cause darkening (even after a single application), thus may not be a desirable product to use when the maintenance of a lighter shade is desired. Neatsfoot oil is more useful for routine use on working equipment. Neatsfoot oil is often used to oil sign-writers' brushes that have been used in oil-based paint, as this oil is non drying and can be easily washed out with solvent at any time. Oiling the brushes reduces the buildup of pigment in the ferrule, the metal part that many brushes have to hold the hairs in place. Neatsfoot oil of the highest grade is used as a lubricant.[1] It is used in metalworking industries as a cutting fluid for aluminium. For machining, tapping and drilling aluminium, it is superior to kerosene and various water-based cutting fluids. The fat left over from the second pressing process, a solid stearin, is used for making soap

Hi Knuckle..........being as I'm not a good mechanic and often do not have the handy dandy tool needed, I prefer to take the item to the shop and let the experts work on it. I don't really need to substitute the other (except for the heck of it as a test) since I hardly drive the car these days. I can sit and wait for the repair to be done.

A couple pics from my stuff,,,,,47 P15. That center part does come out to a point and the sides are straight up and down. Have owned this convert since 1973......it came with no grill (or any other) stainless. Those center pieces do appear for sale from time to time on eBay. It has to come to a point in the middle as the entire grille is pointed to follow the point on the hood.

My stock P15 radiator has sprung a leak in the upper left hand (drivers) corner with antifreeze dribbling down the edge of the core. I can take it to a local radiator shop for repair. But......I was wondering if, in the meantime, I can substitute a similar radiator from a slightly newer model (probably early 50s vintage). The main difference is in the filler neck/overflow arrangement. The P15 has the neck, which uses a non pressure cap.....and has a separate nodule toward the middle from which the overflow tube comes. The later model has the overflow tube coming off the filler neck, and I believe uses a pressurized cap. So.......If I simply place my non pressure cap on the newer radiator, that should work OK and the overflow would not need any pressure to escape. (i bought the later model radiator at a swap meet to use as a spare, but failed to note the difference of the filler and overflow. Far as I can tell, it is in good condition......hopefully so.) See attached drawing. Thanks for any input. Bob On a related topic......If I was to buy one of those nice, shiny new aluminum radiators, can you paint them black to look like the original?

Even if some car owners have antique vehicle insurance in force, it still may not pay them. One man was quoted in an article I saw saying his policy only covered him if his car was in his own garage within his sight. I suppose some company offers blanket insurance for antique auto dealers and museums. (I did notice several 40s/50s Chrysler products in one video)

Bernbaum's as we know has a new owner these days, who seems like a good fellow. Have heard comments over time both pro and con about various AB products. I bought a windshield gasket from Steele for my P15,,,it was good. Also bought a cowl vent gasket from Steele......mine was correct and OK. Steele is not cheap. So there is no totally correct and accurate answer.

Nice rides

I've seen many of the style hubcap you're missing. However I don't have any at the moment - will try to watch at a big swap meet coming up in a couple weeks here in our area. There is one big hubcap vendor, and many individuals have piles of wheel covers as well.

1932 Desoto roadster there https://nebula.wsimg.com/74e492df36d62ea4f692b49f15ba3642?AccessKeyId=44607BE38C7D40072763&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

I did not even know about the museum in Fulton, MO as I never go to that area of the state. Thanks for the information. Maybe I can take a trip up that way some day. A list of what is on display (maybe not all at all times) Doctor's Buggy and Horse -- 1896 Ford Quadracycle -- 1902 Oldsmobile R Runabout -- 1903 Humberette -- 1907 REO Touring -- 1909 Black Auto Buggy -- 1909 Ford Model T Touring -- 1909 Lambert Model A1 -- 1910 Kelsey Motorette -- 1911 International Harvester Chain Drive Truck -- 1914 Woods Mobilette -- 1915 Studebaker Touring -- 1917 Ford Model T Roadster -- 1917 Oldsmobile Touring -- 1917 Scripps Booth Roadster -- 1919 Briscoe -- 1919 Chevrolet Roadster -- 1919 Dodge Brothers Roadster -- 1920 Chalmers Hardtop -- 1920 Ford Model T Center Door -- 1922 Ahrens Fox Pumper -- 1922 Dodge Brothers Touring -- 1922 Wills Sainte Claire -- 1924 Stanley Steamer -- 1926 Packard Limo -- 1926 Packard Touring -- 1926 Pierce Arrow 7 Passenger Touring -- 1926 Willys Knight Sedan -- 1927 Bugatti (VW Kit Car) -- 1929 Chevrolet Cabriolet -- 1929 Cord Cabriolet -- 1929 Rolls DH Coupe -- 1930 Ford Model A Coupe -- 1931 Ford Model A Roadster -- 1931 Marmon -- 1931 Rolls Royce Phantom II -- 1932 Chevrolet Confederate -- 1932 DeSoto CSC Roadster -- 1932 Ford Model 18 -- 1932 Franklin -- 1932 Hudson -- 1932 Hupmobile Roadster -- 1932 LaSalle -- 1932 Nash -- 1932 Pontiac Series 302 Coupe -- 1932 REO Royale Model 8-35 -- 1932 Willys-Knight Model 66D Sedan -- 1934 Model 40 Ford Roadster -- 1938 Buick Series 40 -- 1938 Dodge Panel Truck -- 1941 Lincoln Continental Mark I -- 1941 Packard Coupe -- 1947 American LaFrance Ladder Truck -- 1947 Diamond T Pickup -- 1947 Hudson Pickup -- 1950 Buick Special Series 40 -- 1952 Kaiser Manhattan -- 1952 Seagrave Pumper -- 1954 MG TF Midget -- 1955 Studebaker Speedster -- 1956 Lincoln Continental Mark II -- 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible -- 1957 Ford Thunderbird -- 1959 Ford Edsel -- 1959 Ford Skyliner Fairlane -- 1960 Chrysler Imperial -- 1963 Chevrolet Corvair -- 1963 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray -- 1965 Chevrolet Corvair -- 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe -- 1968 Volkswagen Beetle -- 1969 Ford Fairlane 500 Convertible -- 1969 GM Chevrolet El Camino -- 1969 Lincoln Continental Mark III -- 1969 Mercedes Benz 280 SL -- 1970 AMC Javelin SST Fastback Coupe -- 1970 Cadillac Stretch Limo -- 1970 Chevrolet Z28 Camaro -- 1970 Dusenberg (VW kit car) -- 1973 International Harvester Travelall -- 1974 Cadillac Fleetwood El Dorado -- 1975 Honda Civic -- 1975 Renault Electric -- 1980 Mazda RX-7 -- 1981 Cadillac Fleetwood El Dorado Limo -- 1982 DeLorean Coupe -- 1985 Cadillac Seville -- 1986 Litestar Pulse GCRV -- 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III -- 1997

There is now a new Route 66 car Museum in Springfield, MO. Located on College Street, just west of Kansas Avenue (on the west side of town). The owner converted the building from a manufacturing facility to a museum to house 70 to 75 cars. My bro in law and I went there a few days ago.....the man has purchased nice quality examples of the cars he included. There is other related memorabilia around the place plus a small gift shop area. Pretty nice. Admission is $13 per person as I recall....a couple bucks less for seniors. Link: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwihmJy65sDVAhUj_4MKHTFYAFYQFghxMAM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.news-leader.com%2Fstory%2Fnews%2Flocal%2Fozarks%2F2016%2F06%2F15%2Fspringfields-new-route-66-car-museum-opens-public%2F85825340%2F&usg=AFQjCNGxIWAxmRQLVb5Y5sjTiSAZI8eV3Q

On a 47 Plymouth front fender stainless trim, the threaded stud is "off center" to one side (up and down) , as I recall. I don't know if a Dodge used the same thing or not. If you don't use the correct clip, your trim is not in exactly the correct place. Hope that makes sense. Some of those trim clips that can be modified by the user may work OK. I found this pic in my online album.....I think this is the original, correct one for the front fender P15 stainless trim.

Just looked at my Photobucket page......has a thing to click and read about the new changes. They appear to be picking on the free accounts the most. Leaving alone the paid accounts until Dec 31, 2018. They also tell you how to download pictures to save to your own computer. Will read it in more detail. Ahhh.....found that they now will offer three different paid plans.....the Plus 50 for $5.99 per month for storage but NO linking or 3rd party hosting. The Plus 100 plan for $9.99 per month which offers linking but not 3rd party hosting. 3rd party hosting is where you can embed or place a picture on another site like a forum. The Plus 500 plan is $39.99 per month for unlimited linking and 3rd party hosting. The company claims their income has decreased due to ad blocking by individuals and other things that lessen ad income plus tons of 3rd party hosting.

Sounds pretty simple at this point. I just put in a new 6 volt battery this week....the old one had been in for about 3 1/2 years. The car gets a bit hard to start after sitting for two or three weeks and finally wore the old battery down. I have a master battery cutoff switch mounted on the firewall to cut out anything running through the battery while parked. Looks like I have the narrow fan belt.........

Thanks Donald and Don. Are these alternators just connected by one wire?

I have been thinking about replacing my P15 generator with a new 6 volt alternator. Looks like it should bolt right on. Not sure what if any wiring change is necessary......are two wires on the gen. Any one do this change and if so do you find it satisfactory? Thanks. Bob

It may fit on top of the original bumper guards......as I see a hook on the back side......what would it attach to??