BobT-47P15

One possible place to find that part is from another old Mopar flathead six engine. Another is eBay. Or perhaps someone here on the forum has one of those lying around they could spare. Or, can you find a heavy enough piece of wire and cut/bend to suit?

Yes, converts are nice and fun to have. There are definite differences from sedans and coupes. The 46-48 P15 Plymouth takes a unique rear seat--it has a piece of plywood as a back that forms part of the top well, and is a bit smaller. The top bows are usually hard to find if missing.....may have a wooden bow above the rear window for tacking of the top. I don't know if the top is operated by a vacuum system, or is hydraulic/electric. There is a place in Florida that deals with such items. The inside sun visors may be smaller and different from a sedan, with a special mounting bracket. Window frames are likely different. Front clip from a two door and probably a four door should fit. Not sure about the trunk lid size. Some (or maybe all) stainless from a two door should work. Not sure if there are very unique pieces on that body style. You might buy and look thru a parts manual for the model. Just a few thoughts as my car is a ragtop and does have a few specific convert pieces.

Well......whatever the paint is Ed, it will look better after waxing.

I would guess, Tim, that the water flow in an engine supposedly rebuilt probably 20 or more years ago is not at it's maximum capacity......given corrosion and crud, plus maybe an original 1957 water distribution tube. So, with an older engine such as mine, which number of rows would seem to be best. I may be having a spare 218 engine overhauled in the next few months, which would then be working with the new rad if purchased. Not sure how to determine if the seller is a good person......maybe i can look for reviews on the internet.....or maybe not if the ebay name is different from their regular business name. I will try to go to the local radiator shop Tuesday and take some pictures and get measurements of the core as well as the frame width, etc. So I will have a better info to compare with anything a rad seller says. And I will try to get a phone number or email for the sellers so I can talk to them about the angle of the upper neck.

Here's another one found on ebay......from "direct_tuningpart" in walton, ky for $209.00.....4 row aluminum, already painted black. Link............ https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-for-1941-1945-1942-1943-1944-Plymouth-Concord-P15-L6-Gas/222972247865?hash=item33ea2e7f39:g:w9QAAOSwOYFabpjx Funny thing......both this company and the one sent by Oil Soup (Parts 4 Less) are both located in Walton, KY. Is four row a lot better than 3 row.......or not much difference.? Tim.....I had the radiator guy look at the spare rad.....his first report was that it seems pretty good, except the bottom tank has a leak needing re-soldered. But, yes, it is nearly as old as the first one. So, a new one is beginning to look better and some of the ebay prices are less than the estimated $450 cost of a new core. I don't think that included adding tanks, etc. I think Don Coatney took a saw to his top neck to change the angle. However, I think another fellow or two called the maker who obliged them by making a neck with the proper old Mopar angle. So, before buying, I would try to contact the seller (or maker, whichever) to talk about that situation. Thanks guys......keep those cards and letters coming......... Bob

Well, I just called my local radiator repair shop to see how they were progressing on possibly repairing my P15 rad. The answer was that he could not make an effective repair due to old age and condition of that radiator. I had also taken him a rad I bought at a swap meet.....from a 50 or 51 (supposedly) Plymouth. Shape and size are real close to the P15, but, about half an inch taller (or longer, whichever you prefer to call it). He says he can switch my top and bottom tanks over to the newer one, and make it such that the additional half inch is at the bottom. My question is: is there enough space at the bottom to accommodate that extra half inch?? Anyone have a thought on this? Told the man I would check here for opinions then get back to him. I would prefer not to get a nice, shiny, new aluminum radiator as they look out of place in an original car. As far as I know, you are not supposed to paint those aluminum rads to make them black like original. Or, I could get a new old style core for about $450. Any opinions/thoughts appreciated.

Tim is correct.........need to reduce voltage to dash gauges........change bulbs in lights..........can probably just use an alternator in place of a generator.......not sure if the heater fan cares what the voltage is........others with 12v can tell you.

To get to the for sale section.....go up to the top of this page to "Forums" Click on that. Scroll down to Classified Ads. It says ads are text only -- no pictures allowed. I suppose you can put in your phone number so guys can call for more detailed descriptions. Please check your personal message section for a note from me.

You can purchase new fuel pumps with materials that are resistant to today's gasoline ingredients......on ebay and other places.

I see Rich, desoto1939, found in his AC speedometer catalog that the P15 uses 58 7/32 long =no O D=. It says the 41 Plymouth with an OD should use 83 11/32.......should be fairly close to P15. I contacted eBay seller belair2door, who said his info shows a regular speedo cable for a P15, no OD, is 63". He said a person can use either a 73" or 83" cable depending on what they feel is needed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/47-48-PLYMOUTH-SPEEDOMETER-CABLE-1947-1948-FREE-SHIPPING-IN-THE-U-S-A/230930310117?hash=item35c484e3e5:g:s8MAAOSwYxBaPTgq Hope this info proves helpful.

Hopefully will get to see you at the Drags. They are back to the LaQuinta (formerly Ramada) as host hotel, far as I know.

I looked in my Plym Parts Manual and could not find a listing for the speedometer cable.......guess they called it something else. Anyway.......who knows the standard length of the original P15 speedo cable?

Some company, in years past, made a speedo cable described as for (among others) a P15 with overdrive transmission.....it was just a little longer than stock. Bought it on eBay several years ago. Do not recall what brand or model number it was.....just in a box and looked like any other cable. Then.....the Joplin tornado of 2011 caused me to lose numerous items being saved for my car, including that longer cable. You might check on eBay for anyone offering a lot of speedo cables......correspond with them to see if they might happen to have the overdrive model. I have not done that, but guess I should take my own advice. I have used carpet in my car, as I cannot locate the rubber front mat nor the horsehair rear carpet.....nor the rubber trunk mat. Some fellows have used some rubber mats as sold at Lowes or Home Depot......might possibly be useful, but don't know what size it comes in.

Nice car Kirk. Mauve may not be a HAMB friendly color...........LOL

When I was at the Carlisle swap meet a couple years ago, I purchased the only type of water distribution tube I could find for sale.....it was aluminum. Looks to be the correct size and style used for my P15 six cylinder engine. Is aluminum a good thing or not a good thing for a water tube? (I did just notice what appears to be a regular steel one on our favorite shopping site for about 70 bucks.)

Proabably need something more like a Chevy, Olds, Pontiac or Caddy convertible.......big ol boats.

It seems to have a needle and thread that you found with it........so I suppose I would call it a travel emergency sewing kit until finding out otherwise. Cool old item.

Thanks for doing it. Have met some good people and learned lots of helpful stuff on here.

From time to time people have inquired what are correct engine part colors, as well as other various colors such as inside the trunk, underside of hood, etc regarding the 46-49 Plymouth P15. I found a list I had saved (which may be posted someplace on this web site).....but I did not happen onto it. SO.....I posted the list in the Tech Archives section to make it available to anyone who might find it useful. I think many of those color uses apply to most of the 40s and early 50s old Mopar cars.

This list may be available on this website somewhere, but thought I would post it again in case some had not seen it. The colors apply to a Plymouth P15, but should be similar on other brands and models. Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Paint Details Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods

We have a battery store called Battery Warehouse......they carry a 6 volt battery......seems like the last one cost me 75 to 80 dollars. I don't recall what the guarantee/warranty time was -- as they usually last me three or four years sitting idle most of the time. Can't recall the brand name......they attach a name sticker to them at the store..... which I remove soon as I get home......to make the battery match my black and silver underhood color scheme.

My shop told me a new core would cost between 3 and 4 hundred dollars....if needed. Out of curiosity, I asked if there are any other radiator shops in our town nowadays. He said one small shop had closed, but there is now a place owned by a large company called LKQ, which also owns several salvage yards. A couple days ago, I stopped by a small auto restoration shop to see a fellow who works there -- to inquire where they get replacement radiators when needed. They usually buy from Champion Radiator -- getting an aluminum rad for something in the two hundred to three hundred dollar range. I think the Plymouth one was priced at $223. I'm glad mine can be repaired. I really prefer the original look and the fact it is black to match other things under the hood. As opposed to a nice, shiny silver aluminum one which would really stand out. Whatever my guy charges will probably be reasonable.....and worth it to me

My original radiator developed a leak in the upper left corner, back side......and began leaking onto my garage floor. I finally drained it and removed it from the car. Took it to our local old timey radiator shop......the same fellow has been there since I moved here in 1968. We visited a bit a couple days ago when I took the rad in.....said he is now 73 and plans to continue on for a while. He called me yesterday and said it appears the rad can be repaired.....so that's what I will do. I have another rad from a 1950 or so Plymouth, which has a different top tank arrangement due to being a pressurized system. The shop said the bottom tank on that rad leaks and would need to be fixed before use. If I ever have to use it, I will have my top tank attached to it for non pressure and because it has the mounting units for those little metal fins that mount atop the P15 radiators. I have the fins, but not the rubberized piece that attaches to the fins. Those pieces can be reproduced using some rubberized material, but I don't recall where to get it. I think greg g has a pattern for the rubber piece.......he gave me one once but not sure I can find it now.

The carpet under the driver's feet didn't look to spiffy. I wonder what type steering and other suspension items they used. Some things look real good......others are iffy......in my opinion.

My speedo reads about 15 mph faster than I'm going. (If I want to go 40, then it reads 55. etc) My differential is close to original......engine and trans are original type items.