BobT-47P15

Those two manuals have a lot the same info about the P15. What is anyone else's opinion? The rectangular tag on the fire wall is a body number. There is a rectangular tag on the left front doorpost that is a serial number. The number on the engine block starting with P15 (or other P number) is what they originally used as the serial number (similar to todays vin) on the title. That number can also be found stamped into the outer side of the frame just a little in front of the left rear wheel. May need a wire brush to clean off rust and crud to see it. If the engine number and frame number do not match, then the motor has been replaced at some time.

I see by the interior pictures your car is indeed a Deluxe model. If you want to spiff it up to resemble a Special Deluxe, all the dash pieces should fit and I think you can replace the horn center with a S D horn center and ring. You will just have to look at Special Deluxe pictures to know what the differences are.

One thing that goes out in these old radios is the capacitors as they dry out. Tubes may actually be good. Then there is a vibrator cannister, which may or may not work. Those can be found far as I know. If you know electronics, you probably can invent your own system. Then hook up a new style speaker with it. That is the deluxe model heater.....same as I have..... may need some attention or may work fine....just have to check it out. It will serve as your defroster system, if you have one in place. You've done good so far getting books......an owners manual and parts manual. The one on the lower right is the other thing you should have.....a Repair Manual. There is also info on Plymouth in old Chilton and Motors Manuals.....usually can be found on eBay.

This is a pretty typical silver color engine in a P15. Somehow other colors often don't look quite right.

I would personally recommend running radial tires......the old bias ply style are bad about following all the ruts and grooves in the road and you sometimes have to fight the steering wheel. Radials have the sidewall give and a newer tread design......therefore they track better. They are harder to turn when at a stop or moving very slowly. Is your car the two seat coupe or the one seat business coupe? The engine should be a silver color and most accessories attached to it are black. Or, at least that's what I did. I presume you know it is positive ground, with the positive side of the battery grounded to the block. Make sure all your parking light and tail light connectors and bulb bases are clean and make good contact.....and are grounded properly. If you have not invested in a P15 repair manual and also a factory parts manual.....you should do so soon. Reprints are usually available if originals are difficult to find. Addendum......on a P15 with 15 inch wheels....the equivalent of a 215 R 15 is the best size in my opinion.

Have they sent you any cell phone pictures yet??

My son in law went to an auction sale recently for the Crown taxi cab company in Kansas City who has gone out of business. They were selling everything including 8 Studebaker Larks (5 still running) which had been used as cabs at one time. I think the current fleet had been Ford sedans. Guess he didn't get a picture of one. He did buy me and himself "taxi" signs that go on the car roof.....brand new and unused.

I don't know how they did the lettering either. If painting by hand, you can mask the letters off, but that would take a while. I just paint and keep a piece of cloth with some paint thinner on it handy.....if I go outside the line, I just wipe along the edge, then maybe go at it again -- or maybe the wipe cures the problem. As you probably know....the circle around the Plymouth name and the ship is NOT painted. Some have painted them but I prefer to leave it chrome.

He apparently has some parts re-made. I bought two clear plastic pieces for a 47 Plymouth hood ornament from him at different times, for two different (but reasonable) prices. The quality is pretty good on those. But.....some folks on this forum are acquainted with the owner of that company. No further comments. Yes, talking with Neil Riddle would be a good thing. Might try Len Dawson at Deception Pass Motor Parts in Washington state...……. http://www.dpmotorparts.com/inventory_4_a.cfm

Should look pretty much like these.

Bill Hirsch has received a couple good reviews on tops. In fact, I think that's where I got my last new top rather than from EZ On company. However, mine is now in place after a few trials and tribulations......hopefully good for the next few years.

Also.....Neatsfoot oil is good for lubricating and softening the leather part inside a wiper motor.........so some people say.

Here are some big ol Dodges...............

Have you ever seen an old Dodge set up as a hot tar hauler?? This one was used in my old home town.

Do you have a local auto upholstery shop capable of making a boot? What material do you want to use.....haartz canvas or some vinyl type material? I purchased a piece of haartz canvas from a supplier in Kansas City, Kansas and gave it to my upholstery man......he did the rest. My top and boot are a tan color. Along the front side of it is a flap that attaches to the rear side of the back seat with some heavy duty velcro.

Guess I don't know what finishes you are speaking of.......... I just stick to my old spray paint.

Looks excellent. Glad you are getting out and having some fun with the car.

I have a vintage flasher unit I found somewhere in my travels (or maybe bought from eBay).......it has a little green indicator light that does flash, but somehow not quite at the right time. So I put a small square of electrical tape over the lense and added the two red lights using a home made housing. Wired the bulbs in where things connect to the flasher can under the dash. Kinda odd.....not quite correct......but it works for me. My flasher has rubber wheel that contacts the back edge of the steering wheel in order to cancel the signal after making a turn. It works part of the time which is ok. I first used one of those cheap chrome housing signals .....and the arms inside eventually bent and it would not work......tossed it. Have never tried the signals mentioned above. In regard to the cancelation rubber wheel........they are at different angles for different brands of vehicles. I think the Plymouth one has the wheel at a more upright angle than one for a Chevy.....due to the shape of the steering wheels on the back side. I went over and looked on eBay.....there were a few older items but, as usual, it is hard to tell very much about them. You need to make sure one is the seven wire style and not the four wire.

Is that car picture a Canadian model?

To my taste, 53 Plymouth wheel covers are kinda boring. Maybe some "flipper" caps. 53 Plym 57 Dodge

I believe his wheel covers are 1958 or 59 Dodge items. There was no mention of what brand of engine is under the hood..... but my guess would start with Chev.......

I currently am using a pair of springs found on a semi tractor to hold up air lines on the back side of the cab. They are not stout enough to be of much help. The spring shown (plus another) was acquired from a person who changed the operating system of his top. At the time I bought my current truck related springs, I could not find anything else......but don't recall now where all I looked. Any ideas for places to look are appreciated.

t Testors also makes a felt tip paint pen which I have used on certain occasions......its pretty handy. I have a rag with some paint thinner handy to clean off any excesses.

I presume most P15 convertible owners are familiar with the pair of "folding top counterbalance springs" found hidden in the rear fender area behind the rear seat. I believe they are designed to offset weight of the top frame when being either opened or closed by the vacuum top cylinders. Or, assist the person who raises/lowers the top manually. The springs are right at 17 1/2" long with and outside diameter of about 3/4". And,, strangely enough, they have a cover made from what appears to be a piece of the same material from which the top is made......Haartz canvas. My wife has a sewing lady who makes various things for her....so I asked if she could make a couple replacement covers from some of the Haartz material I have......and she did. The covers are right at 13" long and 2 1/4" wide when folded in half and stitched. I guess the purpose of the covers is to dampen any spring vibration noise and/or deaden any sound if the spring rubs against something. Just another example of how they paid attention to details in days gone by. I wonder how many ragtops still have these springs and if there is any demand for a reproduction of this spring. I know a local guy who says he is acquainted with some people in another state who might be able to make such a spring. Just wondering. I am thinking of having a couple new ones made as these old ones are probably subject to breaking at any time.

There are several places where you can get the chrome fender welt.........but I can't recall where I got mine several years ago. From the Plymouth parts manual.......the original stuff had slots every so far to allow the welt to curve with the curve of the fender and not kink or bend too sharply.