Plymouthy Adams

I am one to do my own research and dare to be different upgrades. I happened to have access to this particular tank, few quick measurements revealed that a quick mod to the inlet put in as 'shoe in' for the Suburban, so for 80.00 I bought a brand new tank and did the deed. IT IS NOT PLUG AND PLAY but anyone accustomed to fitting would never have an issue making the mods. As Kramer would say, Move along Betty nothing to see here. if you do not have the time tools and welding skill set to do the deed moparpro is your next best bet. This task I did long before moparpro started trying to supply some stuff to the hobby and keep in mind that I also upgraded the instrumentation and while with the Suburban is easily falls in the generic senders that also is not a hard task to bring up to date newer or existing fuel gauge. As the suburban is powered by fuel injection, the tank supports return fuel, high pressure pump and of course the low fuel indicator light added for 'just because I wanted it.' The original tank was nothing but scaled rust on the few surfaces still visible to eye, totally toasted it was.

the Surburban tank is one of the easiest tanks to retrofit with a donor tank using original Plymouth straps and inlet pipe located in the rear quarter panel and at a price of less than 100.00 when I did mine. At 16 gallon, foot print is unaltered, the straps also align with donor so the unknowing glance from folks would not be obvious to the upgrade.

I read the above as the original coupler when going south with vibrations and of course other degrading driving actors, called for the eventual replacement of the coupler. Then the replacement coupler (rebuilt, usually incorporated splitting the unit and welds) correct a majority of the issues but had internal issues which well are balance related and how long this unit will survive before imbalance will cause accelerated damage is anyone's guess. Finding a used donor that has not been cut, welded, etc with install of a new graphite given the bellows are solid would be priority one and likely the most cost advantageous. Second only to quality replacement original would be the elimination of the coupler itself going to strictly manual clutch only which would make the driving experience less desirable to most every owner.

clicking will be the soon and apparent indicator of the cause and effect of an elongated rear bushing or voltage drops.....diagnosed a car I was called to troubleshoot yesterday with one of three serious issues. Voltage drop was the prime culprit and easily corrected, improper adjustment was secondary and caused catastrophic mechanical damage and last was the jury rigging of a safety features built into the car to prevent property damage, injury or even death.

Chrysler (usautoindustryworldwartwo.com)

it has been said a number of times that rebuilding these couplers is not quite the art and success story of rebuilding a torque converter, odds are your very source of vibration can be traced to the coupler.

check number one, voltage drops....number two, while the bench test of a starter may prove it good, there is no load thus the rear bushing is not checked proper and elongation could well be the cause of drag and excessive current draw.....renewing a rear bushing may well be in order. Starter drag slows the starter, heats the cable and kills a battery in short order.

New toy, neighbor gave this to me saying he cannot think of a single need for this device. Still NIB and wrappers still in place. I will take special good care of this. Goes with the more delicate tools and such I have on hand now. I have a use for it now, may not use it till after I get a bit more done and company gone but definitely got an use for this.

Permatex #2 is a product I used as a kid and excellent gasket dope.....but would not put this on a painted surface. Not saying it damages paint, just awful stuff to remove is all.

I remember that trip Greg, the gang gathered at Bill W.'s place and do some tweaks on their cars in his shop. Still hear from Bill now and then though he does not frequent the forum it seems.

get this at your local paint and body supply store.... comes in precut lengths...easy to use...never hardens, one box will do a good number of normal car rebuilds. A favorite for installing trim and filling in around the holes for the clips/nutted retainers. This is a link to 3M brand, good stuff. 3M 08578 1 Foot Strip Calk, Black, 60 per Box | eBay

Older Dodge or Ford trucks, there are short and tall units at some speed shops for this purpose. There are threads to roll your own of plate steels welded to backer plates before install to frame. Speedway is just one company that aftermarkets these that come to mind.

man down the street I stopped by to observe what he was doing and turns out he was putting another 4 banger in his Dakota......347,000 miles on the original....I would say that was good service. Original manual transmission, flywheel and what is only one replacement clutch. body in good repair and no rust....its a southern thing...

I don't smoke, chew, gamble, play or watch sports, non drinker, I also know chasing women is too costly so yeah....turning wrenches, drinking coffee are fairly safe ventures.....🔧

where is the fun is buying bolt on stuff...this is supposed to be a fun hobby a way to be active and creative.....I know not everyone calls work fun.....lol

That particular snake species may now be extinct......sorry could not resist that...😄

not off topic as he was using the wrong product from the get go...he stated A9 which is for aluminum....so that is why this is NOT of topic here....even at that....there are better products for tapping aluminum and for sure all you need is a good cutting oil for steel...

For sure, no aluminum thus the reply that he is using the wrong tap/drilling as he stated the A9 product in his approach to the task.....

I have never been that fond of tap-eze and any of the products for aluminum such as what you show. Next time you wish to tap an aluminum hole, use a bar of soap....drag the tap across the soap bar filling between the cutting blades of the tap and you should have a smooth and clean cut....and I am not meaning soap clean either. For steel, good oil and or grease...grease if you wishing to keep chips from falling through...start, go a few turns....back it out, clean the chips, fresh grease to trap the next chips.

the hy-drive was a true torque converter as compared to a fluid coupler. The hy-drive was offered with the 218 as a boost in performance as the torque was multiplied and the result was so good that they offered better gearing in first, second and a bump in higher ratio in the final drive. Win win across the entire line up save for the shared oil. The 54 model year in mid production saw the 230 installed in the Plymouth and was coupled solely with the Powerflite trans. 55 model year saw the 230 across the board in Plymouth and the 218 was history. 1954 was the only year Plymouth offered the flathead 6 in two different displacements thus a diamond was added to the engine block ID plate to denote the 230 from the otherwise plain jane 218.

just pull the pump, use the gasket as a template, cut a plate out of aluminum or steel, your call, drill the holes, make a new gasket and close off the holes...you done...nothing at all hard about this....take it to the buffer and put a high gloss shine on it...you may find one at the BBS but I am not sure of the pattern matching the SBC that is normally stocked...take your gasket and again, do a match.

the pump will pull a bit, closer to the source the better the pulling it is however an excellent pusher. I placed my fuel pump in what is similar to your description. One of the few tasks that I did not photograph it seems...

that style shock mount was designed to sit on the top of the frame rail and should have been notched for that.....you may need to source some new mounts....The shock should set a bit above the suspension. Here is a pic of my install, F1 style mounts, backer plates each side for diplacement....

I am thinking you will need wheelie bars installed with that setup.....😄

is this a ripped up chassis frame outer metal that I am seeing...this is very much not what one would hope to see on any chassis......hope I am misinterpreting the picture here the spacers could well be for the wheels now in use if not stock.....many later wheels are more of a positive offset and thus need spacers to prevent inner wheel trying to share space with other components. Even wheels say to 1989 often require a minimum of 1/4-3/8 spacer to keep the bulge of the modern radial wheel from scrubbing the inner tie rod end. are you running stock poverty caps with the retaining clips on the wheels