Plymouthy Adams

looking at the picture, while you cannot say HOW thick, it is obvious by the shadow of the base gasket it is thicker than the other other gaskets, not the slots in the gasket, no manner the position of install the vacuum will be applied to the base of the carb..

rather thin and thick are not really descriptive in any exact manner, just suffice it to say when mounted the gasket must have the slots and when tightened, will not compress and or distort so to allow the gasket to squish and block the vacuum.

inform him please the gasket has to be thick original style that is slotted for the vacuum source....else..you are not installing properly and cannot expect different results even with original carb....the gasket must be correct.

you quoted me wrong, you CAN block the intake....the statement was "be aware you cannot bock the vacuum source" and expect it to work" sounds like you are not near the car, not doing the work and only reporting what is told without personal observations on your own. and the manner of most gaskets is that the manifold source is present by the very design of the gasket that does ensure no matter how you place the gasket the port on the carb base will be open to the manifold vacuum source...left, right, top, or bottom. Now if you or your pa made the gasket without regard for the port...I have no clue Look at your own pictures. The outline of the original gasket is clear on the intake with the 4 open slots so no matter what position you place it the gasket will port manifold vacuum to the small hole in the base of your pictured carb. Without that, you will not operate the power piston to enrichen the mix.

good point, this was just discussed a bit recently also.....the Stromberg as is in the Dodge manual is not anywhere near as well written as the Plymouth book and the Carter....but it does have a vacuum piston so yes, be aware you cannot block the vacuum source.

if you having to choke the engine, (hand over throat of carb) then you have a restriction in your secondary system. Did this carb run good before? If you cannot answer that then maybe a rebuild of the original is in order as that SHOULD be the correct high speed jet.

The son and his wife surprised me with this gift....the grandson, wide open behind the wheel....

I had it from a good authority that these kids grew up to become lawyers and politicians...but I do like the spying comment also....you'll never get my tin foil hat...!

wheel looks spiffy Ed....going to Wally World maybe.....careful where you tie the pooch when packing.

specs is listed in the IGNITION section of the manual, dwell is expressed in cam degrees, timing is note near bottom. Vacuum and mechanical advance also listed. Did not see the RPM but Motors have some as low as 475, find your happy place.

look for the clip to be broken out of the door second layer metal...

well, over here, we look at Jeep and Model A as UNDER ENGINEERED.....?

Rustoleum aluminum paint is IMO spot on....color 7715 they have what is supposed to be an enhanced performance same color preceded by the letter V so if you find V7715 supposed to be the better stuff for this application.

the rubber seal is sandwiched between the backing plate and the outside cover and nut...install....tighten the nut, expand the rubber, you got your seal...this is a thin one designed to work for the flat disc and usually zero pressure system. IF you decide to use the thicker rubber, they work but be advised, they are very thick, my experience using one on a limp in...they hit the cylinder casting and as such the metal front plate does not self-locate. HOWEVER if you slice these thicker rubbers discs in half...they will insert cleanly and seal nicely and not look that out of place. I still like these for an on the road emergency...but I do not call them permanent solution the to the metal plug

don't guess...do a voltage drop test and know for sure where your issues lie....do consider looking again to ensure your timing may not be too high...do a current test to see if you starter is dragging due to worn rear bushing....you have a host of simple easy test with the most basic of tools, use them.

This is the tool I was so used to using as most of the shop back in the day had this on hand. In the case of the concave plug, was taught at very young age to use the ball only...

while usually forbidden and in the absence of the exact tool for the job.....a ball peen hammer with the ball against the disc and then carefully struck with another hammer will dimple these right nicely....remember, we not driving railroad spikes into an anvil here....

I snicker because it is funny.....why else....it is not the history of the visor I am snickering at, that is not the history as it is, follow along a bit, the low drag coefficient car making a run...I am laughing at the ratter guys driving chin in chest eye straining up just to see forward.....their discomfort to look cool...priceless...

reservoir adapters are 'roll your own' as the industry does not move in the same direction as I retrofitting modern Mopar to the old. I wrote this up on another thread....check your PM

I would agree with you on the louvers.....these are so way overdone on cars. I have a stock 1974 car with a louvered hood from the factory...it is a basket case hood and the first replacement part I went looking for, the manner they made the louvers with no real provision for draining, pure oversight and looks before function. This is for a car that was built by hand over a 10 year run and only 6408 produced total.

no..thinking transmission, just maybe not only 1st gear is affected.

does it make the same noise if you pull off in second gear? this will give you a bit more indication as to what may have gone awry.

spot a pine cone on a tree branch....pull up a few behind the limb....if you can see the pine cone, you will readily see the light.....(pun intended) actually this would impress me if you could focus on the limb.

not to pass air into the carb, this is the passage for the vacuum piston and thus provides vacuum FROM the manifold to react upon the piston to meet load conditions as needed.

if you traveling 70 and it comes off it will be doing 70 if but for an instance....I lost one when towing on a trailer....I get this car pull alongside of me and tell me something fell from my car. I stopped but did not pick up on the visor gone till I got home with the tow some 160 miles later. Fortunately I was traveling this road often and next weekend on my return I slowed down and limped the shoulder looking for it. Not looking good, the mowers had just cut the grass. About to give up, crossed a small bridge over a creek and there it was about 10 foot beyond the bridge abutment, the mowers had stopped on the other side of the bridge. The odds of this still laying in plain view after a week....I should have bought a lotto ticket also. To my knowledge this has been the only item ever lost in a tow. I often strap hoods and deck lids as you have no idea the integrity of the latches....I remove trim that is suspect loose. I do not recall driving my 49 with visor to any speeds over 60 as I was never on the interstate with it, it was rock solid in place but again not a Fulton dogboner