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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. even with a sync tool I have found the Stromberg duals to be troublesome. I wish you success....being non emissions will probably be an asset. Do you own this TR6 now or are you helping a bud? The TR6 is a classic vehicle that has a timeless style to it. Many folks just don't know the magic of the LBCs.
  2. I'd rather taking a beating than have Strombergs CD series carbs....well I guess the earlier one pre-emission were not as bad...still prefer a good set of SU's or Hitachi in single barrel side drafts...I built a set of CD 150's bit back...kits are still reasonable in price so that is a plus.
  3. depends on if ported or manifold vacuum.....
  4. I am very sorry I lead you on a wild goose chase with the big box store.....I would not have thought they could not do a 6 volt unit....maybe a local farm/home supply place...they do tractor starters I am sure.
  5. not good to guess....measure the puppy.....you need to be able to do good testing with these high current devices...load testing and current reading is the better method....if nothing else arm yourself with the amp specs and carry it to be tested...I think most big box stores can do a load/current test. Most do it for no charge...
  6. what is the condition of the bush in the end plate....does not take a lot of wear here to pull the armature off center and drag on the field...slows the motor...explains the instant stop and also will kill a battery quickly as the amp drawn is greatly increased....
  7. cars have always been a throw away commodity....steel drives whittle down all the spares most folks are seeking....it is the ones that did not get thrown away that gets folks fever rising......today, at 15 years most cars are long gone to the crusher...save for a few trucks...
  8. did you install the points properly. The spring is no longer permanent part of the point but something you have to connect when installing.....
  9. it would not be so expensive if we could train these guys to swing closer to your living area..DNR farts me off every time I come up with one of these good ideas....☹️
  10. used to be these were legal only if you were one armed man....so the old toothless codgers on the lairs bench at the local country store told me...
  11. and had you caught a nice grouper you would have had to throw it back as you were fishing just for the halibut..
  12. that is true..but many go into the store and ask for a 12 volt coil.....as all external resistor coils of oil filled are 6 volt carryover with resistors....many hand them a GM/Euro 12 volt internal coil. This is why on the forum one must either list when asking pertinent data or answer when asked....one cannot assume anything as many times these cars have changed hands and been tweaked over the decades since leaving the factory.
  13. ballast with 12 volt is needed if our coil is NOT internal resistor model....old style oil filled cannister coils are checked easily with an ohm meter...if you are between 1.2 and 1.9 with avg. at 1.4-1.7 you will want a dropping resistor (ballast) and rule of thumb is resistor matches coil impedance...now if you racing you will wish to do the math/test for amperage. For the street, not enough to worry about. If the coil is approx. 3.2 ohms +/_ .2 you are internally resisted and no external is needed....but beware these coils keep higher voltage on the coil longer and contribute to shorter life expectancy of the points. If you are up to a bit of search and read you may look also at e-core...
  14. are you saying if I get a smaller car my load will get more narrow...thought that only worked in fast sport cars...
  15. and does not have a recurring monthly note....
  16. high resistance...bad cable/connections
  17. suggest you do a voltage drop test prior to sinking a bunch of money in a rebuild only to find you still have a high resistance in the major cabling....you should get a manual and follow along in the trouble shooting a bit...
  18. are you ordering by model of car or model distributor....you MUST order by distributor number as it may not be stock to that year engine..when the rotor broke as most likely for the wrong distributor/parts combo....ensure you did not also damage the graphite center spring loaded commutator in the cap..
  19. the fuel could be an issue but is often more related to percolation than no fuel at all....this occurs when the float level is set too high and too high could well be on the money given the expansion rate of our modern fuel. If you look into the carb throat and see lots of fumes...this is your indicator of percolation. Correct this condition with the float level in the carb bowl. Second you may need to look close at the coil for overheating and as such not able to develop sufficient secondary spark...when was your car last tuned with new points....high resistance at the contact due to wear or excessive wear not allowing time in dwell to saturate the coil
  20. I will BOLO for one of those at the local swap meet given we ever get to get out in public again.....thanks...I take it the half dies screw into the hex handle that is NOT the burring tool....and you unscrew and the inner ID of that handle accommodates line sizes and backing nuts are behind the handle when flaring.
  21. my last two brake upgrades/renew of tubes were done with the new copper nickel and it is almost idiot proof for working with....the key to this as in all tubing is the square cut and chamfer being done proper for the double flare...not at all hard but a step one must do correctly for repeated successful flares....do recommend that you have a tubing cutter for use.
  22. the store bought length is an ideal way to go for the DIY but at a bit more of a cost over a tube and flaring kit but a remarkable saving over buying custom lines...
  23. I believe one can check these valves for integrity and ability to control direction of flow...I can see where they can accumulate debris/trash and cause by-passing and thus no compressed/pressure fuel...if the diaphragm is good, these are suspect number two and do ensure the inlet screen and passage is also free from accumulated foreign matter....many times the components, tubes and lines, fitting are not tight or suffer from a pin hole that will suck air and not fuel...this is often check by short line of good quality tightly fitted and feeding out of a clean bucket of fuel close to the pump itself.
  24. my original 4 poster is that style...the newer one is an open front alignment lift, much heavier build and you do wish these to be bolted for to retain their leveling adjustments. There are approximately 10 adjustment points that come to mind immediately for leveling...allows leveling to the floor and then adjustments for the ramps to set level after that and the open arms are adjustable. I have had my original lift for many years and have never moved it about even though I have the roller kit included also, most folks I know have never moved their lift after setup unless they were drunk....
  25. these are all over the internet and the digitial readout is trick but not necessay....I just built a console for my current build and I went to the wrecking yard and slipped out some from a couple Dodge Caravans....I got the ones marked with cover and icons showing switched and unstitched power and wired them as such...if you wish an unswitched unit the led will drain constant power. this is for reference, buy what and where you wish.... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R2.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=usb+charger+car+socket&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=usb+charger+car
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