Plymouthy Adams

sheep prefer it also.....

congrats on entering empty nest syndrome...however do not think that is automatic ME time....that snake will wrap you up, squeeze the life out of you....you must make those about you aware of the intended use of ME TIME and stick to your guns. Good gift of fixing the Focus....am sure his focus is on other things...

not that its a big deal but the brake keeper at the top pin should be positioned correct for the arch of the shoes and displacement as designed...the self adjuster cable is off the track...the one shoe is locking because the other side may not be functioning....you should be able to check that casting number online.

good thing she was not hit three times.....!!!!!!!!!!!

you got some critters hiding under that truck....future little fetch-ems ?

from what he describes...TOP DOES NOT COME OFF....he is describing the sealed cannister oil filter where housing and all is disposed of...getting harder to source and at the going rate an item I would be quickly replacing...for your enjoyment.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-1956-Plymouth-Straight-6-Straight-4-Engine-Oil-Filter-Sealed-Can-Type/172980818351?fits=Year%3A1947|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item284675d1af:g:tioAAMXQMmJRP5Rr

first off you are not a pressurized system in 1947....the over flow could be likely results of your over filling the radiator...these rads burp to a level just below the full mark mark and when heated and it expands has its own happy place at this level. Continued filling past this happy point will lead to continued and repeated burping.

tape a ring of paper towel about the base of the hose where it connects to the thermostat cover....see if it is coming from there or below at the gasket itself...be sure you wrap is not low enough to wick upwards. If dry...you may wish to investigate the use of a better gasket or if your cover is very rough due to rust....do a very light coat of sealant ont he the gasket....refrain from globbing it on...sealer, like a gasket is just needed to fill imperfections...it is easy to make a couple of gasket from construction paper (school supply) and with a very light app of RTV...sandwich this each side of a normal gasket...this stuff will compress and conform real easily and the light sealant will keep it from shifting/wicking on application.

this stretch is common with the angle torque placed on bolts for aluminum head application....it is very easy to verify stretch with edge to edge of a new bolt and or thread gauge...with the amount of rust shown by you in the one pic...if all are equal to this...on after a total cleaning and inspection could one determine their fit and fitness. New bolts from Summit (brand x in a box) is not going to break the bank and in truth, some things you should never skimp on. These heads require lower torque values...there is no need for off the wall high end brand name stuff like ARP unless you wish just to drop the name when chatting of your build.

it has been a long time since I have seen a seat skirt in place....

refrain from grade 8 common..there is no undercut and without this undercut you may never get them back out of the engine later...

big bear.....big...big big big

and with your disagree I agree in a limited manner....as he has ultimately used the impact driver/hammer...odds are it has been somewhat effective in shocking the threads...but it is probably not strong enough to do the job...I would again, use the breaker bar and get them freed up a bit..then if he likes go back to the impact driver/hammer your method of back and forth will be much quicker and easier...but on initial movement....I have a much better feel for loosening bolts by hand with feed back given to you by the tool than with an impact gun...

If you wish to service the valves and seat surfaces...you have no choice but remove the head. As majority of the bolts enter into the water chamber they do set up a bit and combined with the initial applied torque..they can be set firm but should break free. easy enough...it will require a bit of uumph from you....get shed of the impact wrench...use a breaker bar....even steady pressure will do the trick

still green...it is only that folks are not going the extra mile here to capture these 'green energy sources' they are natural and recurring... for this picture I had removed this recovery device for fear of folks call me cruel and inhumane and also to not confuse others into thinking it is a power cord plugged into an extension cord..... Down under is truly sheep country. While in the mid east and working at the port on US Naval vessel, would see the ship arrive weekly from your neck of the woods to drop off many sheep that later that evening you can see being blessed for slaughter at the market downtown.

All in one riding mower and fertilizer spreader....total 'green' compliance....

If you cannot determine the source of the leak....you should not use any snake oil.....

shazam....that is a freak occurance....I hope to never top you with this one...glad you ok.....for real, did you make a run to the ER/doctor

is that the space shuttle sitting on the back of that thing.....? what I like about this thing is THANKFULLY SOMEONE ELSE OWNS IT..... I don't think Clark Griswold would even drive that thing...

I can show you one similar right now, cars are stacked in a helter skelter fashion as shown.......they do this till the crusher shows up on site....crusher here is a roving contractor thing. They set the crane in one place...the crusher nearby and they can clean out the pile with fewer crane movements. Macon may have one on permanent setup but that is a bit far to go to drop off a carcass...so I cannot say what they may have.

I'll chip in for a quart of paint and a brillo pad for the tires....good start, hope this is not the finished look....

to the man stuck behind you....a most disgusting car to be following behind and a nuisance to society at large...

good luck with this...

with all due respect how do you intend to maintain this vehicle if you do not have a manual to follow the procedures. The books are well written and will guide you easily along the course of repairs and upkeep. The book also has a lot of safety warnings to protect you, component or car from damage/injury are invaluable in the course of performing maintenance tasks.

yes....get some quality parts and fix that thing correctly and get on down the road...JB weld and duct tape, two horror stories and what is worse often you seen them used together...a true user will often hide his JB weld under the dash with a bit of duct tape....rehabilitation has never met with success...these folks are doomed forever...