Plymouthy Adams

nla

You could have spared us that.......is nothing sacred anymore...?? Look like getting that hood to lay flat and match the cowl is going to be a nightmare..fenders out to work in though. The passenger side hood pieceappears to be cut for possibly wedging in place.

Both 51 and 52 have the lower hood lip, on the 1951 this was cut with plastic red reflective letters inserted to read P L Y M O U T H at least on the known 51 models I have seen. 52 was supposedly solid metal with the indented letters chromed... as another note..the hood emblem, flying ship is of the 51 model year.

Thanks..was thinking maybe it was the 111 incher...I have never seen a business coupe close up in this area where I live..these are more of a personal car than say the sedan or club coupe...I like the single seat but it limits you to you and one passenger for comfort.

The wagon I also agree is nice looking example...I believe the original paint is called Coral...and the Bz Cp...has a 52 lower hood lip..the hood was smoothed and the front emblem missing..this is the better way to identify a 51 from the 52... looking at the wiring loom exit at the body to engine compartment is next. Anyone know if the Bz Cp was built on the short 111 inch Concord wheel base or the larger 118??

IF and again that is an IF..the car was sold in an area where there was a pretty hilly terrrain..more than not the dealership may have requested the car delivered with 4.1 gears so as to not have to explain to a customer why is lugs up hills etc...

My Motors manual shows it to be 1952 for DeSoto and 1951 for the Chrysler...

So far Don has the fastest benchtop...62MPH and some Tennessee drivers fluid and the cop's can't touch him....

Stop by Don's house for the race ride..then come on south to my place and I'll show you a flattie 230 that will hold first gear to 55MPH...I drove it again some today..finially got a good day to put some primer on the roof and therefore able to get it out of doors again.

A old shoebox carboard is very nice for making the gasket..worked for me..or course you can always buy a small sheet of gasket material if you want form the local parts house...I figured no one was going to be looking up from under my dash and be able to detect the material just from a bit of gasket edge showing...

The wiring harness will tie in along the inner fender to your items like the starter solenoid, then branch over to the coil..generator and then to the front of the radiator shell..here you will unbolt where it ties into the distrubution block...the harness will be clipped into place with bend tabs along the way..even at this chances are your original harness is going to be very brittle and may crack the insulation real bad, may even to the point it will need replaced..be careful..just wanted to make you aware of the other effect handling might create.

Evidently wrong...lol....I'm a welder when it come to body panel and rust...but on tanks that need repair..I try to stick with Big Bertha the soldering iron.

WHY...No open flame involved in fiberglass work.... Do I advance to round 2??

Allan..if you going south by I-75..you just 4 miles from the house...if you taking that I-95.....you looking at 158 miles from my house...have a safe trip

Maybe..if I could pay using dog money!!

The one big problem some people have when converting from generator to alternator and the higher ouput the alternator is capable of, is assuming that that the current form a 60 amp alternator is always flowing 60 amps..and because of this the current current meter (like that double) is rated less than the output of the new device. The alternator can put out more current at a lower rpm than the generator..the biggest advantage...especially when running items like AC etc. They are quick to recover..high amp at lower rpm equals short recovery time..also keep in mind that the car's charging system is not designed to charge batteries, it is designed to maintain that charge. The voltmeter is of choice in modern cars for its ability to monitor your system with no current flow through it own movement..wire size is smaller. Cars today are fed through power distribution centers from multiple battery taps and protected cirucits with fuseible link, power up relays etc etc..this take all that away from the ignition switch also..as it now, it is used to power up relays coils, very low current compared to yesteryear thus giving the car's electrical system a better chance to operate with less chance of melt down. Rarely have I seen a car's eletrical system load the fields of the alternator to draw in excess of 60 percent rating of the dynamo...above this and the chance of diode damage is greatly increased...anyone testing a circuit above this rating is not doing you or your car any service..instead the possibility of damage during this one test is almost assured..

Basically it is like I said before..if he is not installing a bunch of energy draining circuit that will be working all at the same time..stock is adequate and going to 12 volts is an added plus for you current meter..I contend the shop does not know how to wire the main feed through the meter...no one else is having this problem !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What we have here...and mind you this is just a WAG. The wiring schematic in the KIT does not show a Ammeter and just a voltmeter therefore leaving the installer way out in left field if he is just that, an installer without any knowledge of how the ammeter works. Ths installation of a shunt across the meter equal in resistance to the meters internal resistance will effective divide the indicated current in half..example is, where the meter will now show 10 amps, acutal is 20 because the other 10 is dropped across the shunt. Knowing the internal reisistance is paramount, knowing how to measure this without damage to the meter is also a must. Ohms law comes into play..running 12 volt system pretty much will make your shunt 12 guage wire...length of the wire is the resistance...this can be done precise with your meter and voltage or close enough for horse shoes working with a known current draw. This is best done on the bench. Now if you choose to install a shunt...DO NOT forget about meter protection...to prevent damage should should the shunt fail, install an inline fuse rated to the indicated value of your ammeter..that way if failure in the shunt should occur, the full current will be felt on the single line and will open the fuse and protect the meter and wiring harness itself. This is the route I intend to take with my car..it will have all power options except power seats...power up for sure..but power up safely please.

Even if you may not have a good program for your managining your digital pics, you could use PAINT and resize it through IMAGE: STRETCH AND SKEW: tabs...save as JPEG and get it to upload from your computer. Get a free online photobucket account and just paste the url will work even faster ..most people don't mind clicking on the link to see a pic..

Now running on volts...how stupid is this..what was it running on before if not volts...SORRY..granted the newer cars are running voltmeters due to the size of the wire they are using and the number of high current circuits. If your car is not loaded down with AC, mega watt amps, power widnows, power seats etc..then there is no need to by pass and not use your current amp meter. Sorry guy but they are not doing you any favors wiring your car and asking you to install a voltmeter. Only thing that comes to mind is that they are installing some off the shelf fit anything x-amout of circuits generic harness...even with that you can still run your amp guage if they really knew what they were doing...something abou this stinks in my opinion. Your car should not have any off the wall gauge stuck willy nilly about the dash.

NORM...bad experience for sure, that is why these ships need YARD PERIODS and normally scheduled overhauls..the ocean is a nasty enviroment..and as you may have noticed in just the short time you were on the boat all the things that happen..this is a daily job for the sailor..I tell you of all the services..this would be my last choice...(was going to volunteer for submarine till I got a chance to go onboard one pierside) the background noise was enough to tell me no way. A sailors job is never done and for taking on water..well, they did get you home..lol...wern't many service stations bwtween Korea and USA either..not like you can stop, jack it up and put a patch on the bottom. I did my active duty time US Army and then later retired US AF Reserves....I worked these vessel both submarine and surface ships for 16 years...never ever rode one out of the harbor..had no desire to..not a boat person really...I think my dad rode every submarines' first dive out of overhaul for many many years..just was not my cup of tea.

I worked DOD Navy for number of years till BRAC closed the placed..now am DOD Air Force..anyway to the point...we had two sayings, number one. You can always tell a sailor...but you can't tell him much and when something was broke the answer was: Its been sailorized... Now before you get upset..remember..this is only said jokenly..the guys did a remarkable job keeping the ships and equipment, operational, clean and safe. Their work day was more than I would want to mess with and not only did they know their job..they also had to know a lot about everyone elses. It was all about damage control. Just trying to stay on top of corrosion on a ship is enough to send you off the deep end. It is a very hostile enviroment toward machinery. You did good sailor....

Thanks Greg..it kinda snuck up on me..I knew I was close and had I thought to look I would have made it special but what the hang...went to a normal answer to a thread...I don't feel any smarter as a Zen Master but then I did not get to sleep at a Holiday Inn either... What you think of the early 60's Anglia????????? One down the road from me..crawled out of a barn way out in the country. I got a 460 horse 440/727...look kinda small in the engine bay I think...lol

I got the 50 Stude..and I have seen the Stude-taurus wagon..very sharp...

Boys I have seen this up close and personal and have smelled the varnish cooking out...know a few more things but have to keep my mouth shut....