Plymouthy Adams

Lou..change your distributor filter..it may be clogged...

I think this has been identified as the export tag with body trim and paint codes on it...and I don't think it was ever painted...I have never seen one up close and personal myself.

Read this..apply it as you deem fit.. http://www.metropartsmarket.com/rearend/warranty.html

As I understand and read this chart, the P15 starter will draw 68 amps and turn 4000 rpm at free running speed and pull voltage down to 5.5 volts The only other real method is to check the stall torque..this is very involved as you will need the correct resistor, ammeter, torque arm and spring scale...etc etc.

nla

Woodgraining 101, Louman way...remember the picture of the wooden truck..well the dog in the foreground used to be brown also till he started learning woodgraining..look close..does that dog really look happy...huh..does he???

Sorry James..that just don't compute...when I take my car out I am busy with other curves... You will see a remarkable improvement in the final drive at speed..should be so much quieter...

I used JB weld on a late model gas tanks after finding a hole punched into it for quick draining....yeah ....lets not go there...anyway..I super cleaned the area with the wire brush...wiped clean with solvent...smeared a tad of JB on a larger sheet metal self threading bolt with large washer...screwed it in tight and then brushed a layer of JB over that...little undercoating after that and no one is the wiser...worked like a champ.

going by the Plymouth book for the three speed... 2.57 first 1.83 second 1.00 third fast second is 1.55

Actually I could be more concerned about the silicones in the wax..we be talking serious fisheye here and if waxed now and later sanded the dust now has contaminated lots of other areas that may need paint...

The manifold is cracked already, the carb is removed...so if it were to come loose and fall nothing could get damaged..that is why it is still stuck fast..try installing your carb..now it will fall and break the carb completeing its cycle.... I AM AT A LOSS ON THIS ALSO

very sharp car...

I agree..just something about them big ugly thangs I just love...even that grille does grow on you...

night before last I tried to send a PM in answer to an incoming message..it would let me open a reply box but would not let me type a thing..had to wait till next morning to reply...but I just figured it was maybe my computer..I had not turned it off for a couple weeks..stays on 24/7..if I get a glitch..reset usually clears my probs..so as it was late..just shut down for the night.

yep..thats what I saw at his house last time I was there...the brown dog is the one that holds the title on this one.

Lou as you said on the phone..would be a fool to do it myself with him as close by me as he is...maybe I ought to get those two floor pan places welded and get it over to him... I do like it...

If when cool and the wheel turn easily prior to any braking action but when brakes are applied the wheel locks and remains tight when compared to the opposite wheel..chances are the rubber hose is collapsed like 1just4don stated..this will get worse as it gets hotter...try putting both wheels off the ground and test this action..while the brakes does work with your foot on the pedal, this is very high pressure and when you release the pressure the deteroiated hose acts as a check valve..if you find one that is bindin..let it set without further attention to the pedal and let set a while..if you return and see it is released.. The springs assist the return but require a open line condition to permit full pull away from the drum.

Ed...from all I have observed over the years..your tan and blue car both have the earlier 51 decklids, go the the post above by jd52crankbrook and see the 52 rear trunk letters and light holder...his car is correct for 52 with that medallion and therear assembly... As for the fender lettering..did you mean slanted instead of script...

The 49 had the medallion in the lip....the meallion of the 50 and 51 are similar but a not interchangable and yes the 52 went round...do you know the story of the two characters on either side of the medallion? I think my brochure at home shows that the 52 lip got the letters painted red...I can sned you a picture of the real deal lip withthe plastic letter cutouts...they are very nice really but the letters age badly..finding a nice set is very hard...(read that expensive) and yes the trunk is different in its Plymouth lettering also...with the 52 sharing the same license plate lens as the earlier suburbans even though the assemblies are a world apart in basic design. 1just4don...you may want to tell me about the 4 in 1 story....inquiring minds want to know.....

Shel..like minds on the tube....lol

If..........you can bend yourself a small tube and get it intothe spark plug hole and angled toward the open vlave..you may be able to fill the pocket enough with penetrating oil to helpf lube from both side and be a bit quicker to free the stem.. You can put some firm pressure on the valve spring retainer IF you keep it 180 and equal...this will help prevent bending the valve..as it is stuck in upward position the high lift is alread obtained and the possibility of a lot of rust is thus increased...take your time..you may get it without pulling the head...

picture is worth a thousand words..you will need a very good penetrating oil...lube it liberally..lube it oftern..as it soaks hopeflly it will let loose..if you have to encourage it..be use to do so equally on both side of the retainer as you pry down...do not damage valve stem or guide..you may also be able to push it up just a tad higher and get it to start moving.. If you have a good electric heater like for stripping paint, shrinking solder ferrules...this may help also...

Is that the stock hub...anti chatter spring in place in 1939-40 just asking as I thought this did not occur to later....just thinking out loud...

could be a replacement valve somewhere in it's past with a different retainer for the spring making it appear to be a bit off the tappet in comparison...the real thing of importance is the valve sealing and the correct lash between the lifter and valve when hot..the keeper if a tad higher on this profile valve compared to the rest would mean a bit more tenion on the spring but should not have any direct effect on the engine as this would be slight difference at best. IMHO

Bob...that deflector and oblong lens would be a spot-on match for the 1949 rear tail-light reflectors...