Plymouthy Adams

Glad you found someone in the office in the know and that indeed the engine was still original to the paperwork...

I have always used the recommeded oil in the trannys per manufacturers recommendation..not so much that the tranny will not get lubed, far from that. The lighter oil will lube very well, even better because of vicosity..but the difference in the oil is also rated in the SHEAR factor, ability to stay on the wear surface under extreme pressure thus ensuring that the wearing surface is not put in position to accelerated wear. Granted some of the newer manual transmissions do use these lighter oil but then again, they were built with this in mind. Just my opinion...

Bob, were you by chance dealing with bearings and drive? Most industrial place have minimum order...their usual 5.00 bearing is at least 25-30 dollars...I used to get good service there years ago but keep in mind my friend was employed there...last time I was in there I just walked out very light in the wallet but as it was the only place to get this bearing and my trailer was locked up along the interstate..did not have much choice..and that locked me up tighter than the bearing was...they ripped me to the tune of 23.00 for a outer bearing and race..well I got the trailer and my tractor home...you can get these on the average for about 24.00 for the entire axle...

not sure if they have end plugs..usually only rail rockers get lubed through the tube..and then the shaft/tube must align with a large hole at the bottom as it rests on the stand and you will see the extra space around the bolt for the oil coming from the oiling cam bearing (dual holes, top and bottom of shell and grooved) that force the lube into the shaft and out at the rocer arms.the rocker shaft on your engine may not use these..are your push rod hollow..usually mechanical adjusted rockers are lubed through the push rods...I did not see a true rail rocker in my Motors Manual for Plymouth in 1955...

Congrats...glad to hear momma and baby are fine...did you name him Walter P.?

If you have voltage to the points and they spark when you short the contacts..then for some reason the field in the coil is not collasping and generating the secondary high voltage..do you have a spare coil to test with..even a 12 volt coil will do if is is of the external resistor type..use it without a resistor for 6 volt application..will work all day long...

Have not seen that per say..I have seen somone write in on a mis-identified item I was bidding on only for the lister to find its true application and worth..cancel the ad and relist it correct place for 6 times the starting price as before...I have seen tons of this stuff mislisted..we have people who search items with specail words pharses etc just looking for the better deal..myself included..only the seller makes out on this ..some poor guy on a tight shoestring just got ripped out of a hopeful good deal...could be you next...buyer beware-seller be knowledgable is what I say...

Brad..only one word of caution..these generate some real heat and on thin areas can cause warpage if not carefull...they will load up pretty heavy at times also..I have not used these in years..main thing I used them for was after the bulk of the paint was removed..you can quickly clean the stripped panel with these.

Most bearing and seals can be bought per measurements in both standard and metric dimensions. Mic the item with a vernier caliper and proceed that way if you do not have a good number to cross match to. The John Deere tractor I have needed blade hub bearings, no part number, none listed in the JD catalog at the repair shop..so I just mic'ed and searched for it online...found the part number by dimension, bouth 20 on E-bay with ship and hand for about 25.00..that is enough to repair any of my three hubs ten times as it is the same bearing top and bottom. Beats 39.95 + tax per hub assembly from the dealer.

I feel your frustration is running this down..it is evident in the fact that nothing in the lower end is a miss that you paid attention to specs. I personally do not think the rod will be that close as all the things you read about taking a 218 to a 230 does not say "watch or notch for rod clearance issue" I am waiting for the head to come off...this is the area that got more metal work than the rest of the engine..did you mill the head and deck the block?

Yes but are they not symetric? I tend to think the reason for correct indexing of the rods is the oiling hole...I think a very small piece of two side tape and aluminum foil would be ideal for checking if too close. The slight bit of thickness of the tape and the foil would account for any speed whip that may occur. The foil would be very easy damaged therefore proving it to be too close. Thin two side tape can be had at most Hobby Lobby/Michaels. A slight removal of the lower skirt for say .020 clearance should not alter any webbing or water core if limited to the area in the vicinity of the rod..IF it is even close at all...

IF that car is green then let me say it is very very dark..both my monitor at home and here at work shows the car as being black..while the profile picture hints a tad a very dark blue..my friend had never seen that body style before and for the heck of it, do you know how many of these were produced? Georgia law requires that the mud washed off be returned to the state if not used for medicinal purposes..

I just looked at that front bumper a bit more..with the vinyl trim removed it loses it original looks but could very well be a Volare/Aspen front bumper. It does conform to the car real nice..

am available

I have pretty much decided after I get my 41 on the road that the first road trip after local shadedown run will be to the mountains where I grew up. Lots of family still in the area.

Razor blade use for removal has always been my favorite method..however not all paints come off equally. The original paint on my 54, forget it..it don't like coming off with the DA..later paint formulas however are usually a breeze. This method is amazingly quick, less invasive and provides for quick clean up of the area.

one of the very best forgiving paints I have ever seen was Sherwin Williams...I was painting a dash in a old Ford pickup, accidentially made body contact with one end of a freshly painted area..oh well, messed up now..so I said I would at least brush it right quick with a clean soft bristle brush and put another layer on so I can at least have enough paint to sand later without having to take it down to bare metal again or disturbing the primer...shot more paint on it..by the time it was ready for a second coat, it was laying flat...second coat went on..you would never have known it had been brushed..made me a happy camper.

sounds like you may have a bit of residual air left in the line...you may have to bleed again...sometimes it can take a few trip around using the old pump and hold method...

didn't think of that..

I wish I could swing a trip to Tulsa..I don't hve the best prognosis for the overall condition of the car but hoping I am plesantly surprised. On the line of a time capsule..I heard that as Fidel arose to power in Cuba a certain person had just took posession of a new corvette and not chaning loss to a changing wind..it was buried on the island somewhere an is still in wraps..probably a bunch of bull but stranger things have happened. Kinda like the old Woody Allen movie where he comes up an long abandoned VW and it starts and run after sitting in a cave or something..did not catch it all or remember the details..Woody is not anywhere near a favorite on my funny list...

Could not tell from the pictures but was hoping you had control...bet you can reallly blend the tone for whatever area you in...don't be surprised when another set appears on this page hooked up...does the extra long tubes mellow the tone or add a sharp crisp brap...

Lou I have been told that they do...or at least for the 40's...

I thought the same thing about being able to sell on E-bay..guess as how the taxes were paid on original sale maye they assume ok..however is there a guarantee that somone under age won't get it..who has the risk say if a 19 year old got it, got drunk...hit kids in a crosswalk..maybe I worry too much.

I have a number of friends and family not far outside the hub of Louisville...more than not if we met it would have to be in that neck of the woods...however still a working stiff and road trips at the present is visiting my parents and trying to keep up with the work needing attention there..however...could never rule out the fact I may be there when you are in town also.

Norm..well said...it I should hit the 1000 first..I tell you this...lunch is on me but the stipulation is that you place your feet under my table to receive it...a few member have chowed down at my place...if they left hungry..was their own fault and the spread was of a fair variety. And hey, was not that hard a meal to swing by the way..had both wives to help out...