Plymouthy Adams

if the enamel is alkalyd base it will fade (chaulk) regardless..however the lasting qualites of the paint is hard to beat (heavy solids) and in most repair shops of old this was the paint of choice for blending a repair...you may all recall cars sitting in the sun with an area with blueish hues or whittish hue (depends on color of paint) this is the repaired section...the acrylic enamel will fade also but it takes al lot lot longer time to do so...

right you are..blow by refers to the amount of compressed air escapes to the low end of the block during compresson..the more worn the rings/cylinders or pistion condition the higher the blow amount will be...some folks like to take the oil fill cap off and critisize these old engines because of a bit of positive pressure in the crankcase..bare in mind at all times unless you have upgraded to a PCV sysltem..this positive pressure is there because the car is static..must be moving in forward direction to DRAFT the crankcase and aleviate these fumes that is normal in the operation of your engine.

As your test run was short lived, disconnect the hot feed wire from the input to the ampmeter and tape it off against shorting out..jumper your voltage to the coil for ignition and then use a remote start switch clipped into the starter circuit..start the car..if there is no immediate smoke..then it may be electrical.. If you have smoke yet..try now to determine the odor....it may appear white..but could be a slight blueish tint...then once the odor has determined the source..you have but to trace it back...as long as you have enough oil in the crankcase and water to prevent overheat..you should be ok running the engine finding the cource of the smoke.

excellent articles on how to do a compression just by going on line and typoing it in...there are those who want the throttle wide open other that say is is not necessary...either way will get you close enough as long as you test all cylinders equally. A leak down test will check the engine to show just where the leak is occuring in your engine..when pressurized and you can hear air rushing into the block by placing your ear/listening device at the oil fill tube..rings..if you can hear it at the edhaust..exhaust valve..it at carb throat..intake not seated...the actual test is a differential test where you measure the air loss compared to air pumped in...this test will also allow you to check for head gaskets as you can hear air leaking into an adjacent cylinder and if it is blown to a water jacket/gasket orifice, then a rise in the water level or presence of bubble in the radiator..then the gasket is blown at that cylinder. The biggest problem with some pressure test of this manner is ability to lock and hold the engine at top dead center compression stroke for the cylinder you are testing..most of thest test can be done just with pressure and not the manifold for the leak down..it is a bit expensive device...that is one item I do not have either...

low temp and lack of ignition source

if your white smoke has a oil smell sounds like your first order of buisness is to inspect the connect on the right (passenger side of the block) for the draft tube, tight is a must with the porper angle down so it will siphon during forward travel... If it has a sweet smell like atifreeze..I think I would inverstigate for antifreeze leak in/about the control valve at rear corner of block for leaking and getting on the exhaust manifold...plus at that for the smoke/fume to enter heavily into the vehicle says you have a serious air leak at the firewall and needs to be attended to...

rattle board and percussion...and the ultimate copper clanger bell

not my style of eye candy..will pass on the deal..lol this is my yellow convertible..it is V8 4bbl..not stock ..chops really nice at idle..shaker should I say..little smaller...

that yellow thing is just too brash, looks more like a cartoon than a car...would have to be a little more subtle..maybe two center teeth on the outsides and one outside in the middle would at least make it look like it was smiling...I hate say this but the design team was asleep those two years...across the entire Chrysler lineup..

The three big teeth and the middle bar and that forever frown is detracting...I liked the ealier lower hood trim with the plastic letter but they are in most part found only in very rough shape..lending the later stlye to be more popular. these cars do not have a great following..not much has been doen to them that I have seen..not to say it has not..just not aware is my statement. Ed..contact me off line we discuss a few things about the opening that I think may lend a better overall look..but then..beauty is only in the eye of the beholder...

thats a lot of plumbing...Rotor Rooter special..do you have lever control coutout valves installed?

to repeat myself..the 49/50 is the better looking front end of the four years that basic shaped body was made..the 49 bing the most narrown in wheelbase and the fancier front grille due to mainly the mass amount of trim. Ah the 50..its grill is very smart looking and is evidence that little is indeed much..I have a rod-approach idea for grille to the 51/52 that I am not ready to discuss as I have not taken my spare clip yet and tweaked it any..even the 53 and especially the 54 model has it all over the 51/52 Sad Sack look..its these very difference that keep each model alive and with their own following. I probably would not own a 51/52 except for my father having them when I was a child..plus it and myself coming into the world about the same time. So them being ugly I did get a Clup Coupe and the Suburban..both two door models..that alone gives them some social redeeming qualities.

nla

the width, front and rear. slope and such is radically different..would be a very extreme method for getting a sloped hood..I have owned a few 49's and still have a couple 51/52's..sorry but the 49/50 hood design with the peak is in my book a superior look and I would retro fit except again, the above metioned differences. The 51/52 have a sad sack appearence in the grill..their biggest drawback to ownership..definitely not stylish...these two years are an ownership of nostalgia more than for looks.

Perhaps you can go/phone a local machine shop and get their recommendation..it may be very hard for us to recommend a product here as you just stated, may not be available there...or go by yet a different trade name. One of the disadvantages of not being on the same rock.

Has been like forever since I used any of this but one of the better sealants we used in the past was Permatex...non hardening type. I want to say it wa known as #2??????

at that size...a dozen of them and THEY have a meal...you...1

Yes..you are correct..this panel is for access to the valves...

No..only thing you will have is funky gauge readings...GIVEN..the positive wire on the guage is correct and has not been futz with..

I am very happy you enjoyed the book...it has been many years since I have seen a copy.

Reg..they should be color coded..if not able to detect the color...you will want to use your ohm meter and a jumper wire.disconnect both wires on the sender..only disconnect one wire on the guage......jumper this wire to ground under the dash..go to the trunk and read the wires..the one reading to ground back there is the same as the front grounded..hook this to number as indicated on the guage..the other well you know it has to go to the other terminal... the third wire on the guage is battery in..don't mess with this.

believe you will see a 1 an a 2 on both the guage and the sender..they should hook accordingly...the tank must be grounded well..I mean real well as the wiper is on the inner housing that is connected to the outer plate by way of three rivets ..there is a gasket between this plate and housing and the sender and the tank...ie the need to ensure the ground is superb. be bery bery erratic otherwise if you read at all...

Jim...don't ever go visit a body shop...they will bring tears to your eyes. I for one will never top coat a car and then see if we have errors...not cost effective...primer is porous...but only to the extend it will hot hold out LONG TERM

Old titles are transferred as a Collectible document suitable for framing..end use is subject only to the buyer...not seller...SO I AM TOLD...transfer a matching body number and it curtains... Dealing in titles is not hard when the states refuse to title a vehicle that is 1984 and older...bill of sale.....some Pixie dust..coin or two and you have a title... The number plates..yeah...not supposed to have them off the car and in hand...and I know of no one breaking this law..cough cough..crossed fingers etc etc.

Good point Pat...maybe we need a shot of Pete wearing sandals..this could be incriminating eveidence...