Plymouthy Adams

Looking good Fred...might I suggest a carport just in case you have to move out there for a spell...getting "real close" with your car..wives get that way ya know...

with the dry we are having, humidity is like non existant...this is making for bearable work days in the shop..I have been taking advantage of this best I can...got so much more done this weekend toward the lite off of the engine..my oil cooler for the tranny is plumbed and mounted..overflow tank in place, metal fuel line from the carb to below the engine is shaped and mounted for "vibration/engine movement under torque" Every little thing done today is one less for tomorrow...got to live by that for now..lots other small nit-picking things done...plus polishing up the parts from the junkyard run.

Appreciate you thinking of us...it will be Saturday late before we are ever forcast for rain...and then that is so far in to the future one cannot rely on it one bit..I think we all are getting inverse weather not so much becuase of the tilt of the earth axis is shifting at this time but due to retailers gouging prices and it just suffers with the unjust...lol

get it ready for paint Brad, pull it to GA (5 hours form your house) and I will bomb the little bugger for you...or..you can do it yourself, use my booth and my guns....the fun is in doing it yourself....anybody can pay for a paint job....lol

Looking good..going to be a real solid bigbutt....

Sorry James..as everything is going through your amp guage then I am like you, totally at a loss for the erratic action..I had specifically asked that questione arlier and did not get an answer..otherwise I would not have posted the possibility of connecting straight to the battery..I made that comment because most sites that reference installation of a 1 wire recommend to connect direct to the battery. Hope it did not rufle feathers...was not my intent...the one site I referenced talked about a very similar erratic action.

I am thinking like I said in the beginning of this thread...it has been connected directly to the battery being a one wire and he is by passing the amp gauge..only a portion of his current is flowing through the gauge..

Norm..to quote you..."Don't think I could do all that sanding with my arthritis" and that is more than enough reason to leave it be..however I stand firm on the Tremclad website and thier own specific instruction to clean, sand, convert, prime and then topcoat...I just cannot justify omitting a step when you are already there to begins with...if it will last for years with just a so called one step..think of the lasting qualities floowing the prescribed steps...I have been using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer for base primer now since 1984...but I still block that..apply my primer surfacer in prep for a top caot..i still do not top coat Rustoleum..

Thanks Greg..I second that.... Tim Adams 3 years U S Army 17+ years U S Air Force Reserves.. Currently 30+ DoD weapons/communication support depot level (33 including my Army buy-back)

I think that the car coming out of the vault will be non recognizable as a vehicle..it will only reveal its true condition AFTER the clean up..the cosmolene applied to protect it will have to first be removed...I would say the tires are going to be really dry rotted, along with the interior..will probably look good till it is touched..then disentergrate..unless the vault integrity was severly breached, the car has a good chance of being intact.

You now have an engine with good close fitting bearings..the 50 pounds is the relieved pressure..look for it to start going down in a few years...there is a slight chance that this pressure may drop a bit when the engine gets very warm..but being newly rebuilt..you are ok..just keep in mind that 10 lb per 1000 rpm engine speed is rule of thumb adequate.

My 50 Studebaker came with the visor and the bracket mounted not to the windshied divider but at the seam between the hood and cowl..lot neater looking that the pictured car above..it also had an additional support form this rod up to the leading edge of the visor...the rod is solid stainless and not very thick so is not as noticable

Tremclad markets 5 primers for their paints...three are general application for all surfaces: 274102 Red Oxide 274103 Gray 274301 Galvanized white and for automotive specific they have these two items for use on cars: 278106 Red Oxide 278106 Gray They offer paint for automobiles also....their recommendation is to use their rust converter first, then the primer and then the topcoat...from their website.

then why do they sell primer? why do they recommend it ? Sorry but I would never go to the trouble to prep steel without priming...just not worth the shortcut...Then again I never apply primer without etching with acid either..

would have been better if the wind would have been blowing...but it is good that she is a good sport..

Chrysler had four version, Dodge had 5 as did Desoto have 5 version...

best not go to the vacuum advance...that is a function of the air through the horn to apply metered vacuum for advacnce purposes..would be of no benefit to have max advance at idle.

Don..good observation...appears to be possibliy a electric vacuum pump...

James, I do not know the amount of accessories you are running...and to damage the meter..as long as that sucker returns to "zero" the item should not be damaged, in reality the buss bar that induces the reading is quite heavy...you can use a millohm meter and read your meter shunt and equate that with lenght of wire per the wire resistance scale found on many web sites and split your current reading. I intend to parallel another stock meter with mine for same effect with the second one out of sight behind the dash. If you have access to a good meter and shunt you can read the true draw/charge rate. Most hand held meters only are good to 2 Amp and with even better ones limited to 20AMP...an inductive clip on with a 1 millivolt output per amp will allow good reading on a hand held meter way in the hundreds of amps..or either a good Amprobe brand clipon that is AC/DC these are accuratel enough..an AC repairman should have one if you know someone in the business..as this is a must tool for charging units to the RLA.

The early hemi is one awesome looking machine..introduced as 180 HP and continued in production through the 57-58 392 raised block design with 390 HP output. One as visioned in the early 50's sedan though is fewer HP than a sequential fuel injected Dodge 3.9 V8 which is 185 HP (1994) and a whole lot more weight..but to say...yeah its a HEMI means everything to a showboat versus good econimical maintainable engine the V6 will yield. With this engine and the fact that fewer parts are available..and if found are very high...does not make this an economical swap...but again..it is one beautiful work of art.

273-318-340-360 outside valve cover to outside valve cover---------20.5" oil pan(sump)------------8.25" Length from bellhousing face: to front of block-----approx 22" to center of fan belt 27.0 to front of fan 31.8" Height Bottom of Pan to: Top of Production air cleaner........29.0" Top of carb-----------26.5" top of valve cover----------22.0" Pan rail to: Top of valve cover--------------14.5 Source....Mopar Engines Book.....Part # P4452790 Tony be aware that pre 94 engines are the same mounting ears and the 360 is different on the drivers side versus the 318 ears by about 3/8 inch just guessing as I had not made this measurement in some time but made a special spacer for mounting my 360 using a bare 318 mock up block stripped of internals......post 93 got different style mounts.. PS..if you want to go big block..add three inches left to right and 1 inch longer...pulley/belt measurements only amount to .200 inch difference..engines are about the same height..actually the advantage goes to the big block here.

the difference between the 800 and 2000 is there..but to the naked eye it is had to see..the 2000 when compared is a more mirror finish, sand marks are in microns..and when compounded, and I prefer hand polish over machine, the swirl marks by hand are not noticable in bright light. The paint job I did on my friend's Tiger was hand poloished with Maguires to the tune of about 25 hours...lots of work but worth it..he always gets class and best of show trophies out the yang...I was amazed at bestof show, Spartenburg BMW all European show..over 400 cars that day...with time, and lots of hand work lots of paint jobs can be turned around..it is according to the amount of work you want to input..the paint shops cannot work to this level and stay in business...they are there for the quick insurance paid collision repair work..with base coat clear coat quick shine no effort paint of today.. I still prrefer a single stage enamel and the shine will be top notch with a bit of hand rubbing...

Just keep in mind that 1949 was a special one only year for rear axles..it is narrow..as for the rebuilding..all you need to do is swap out the pumpkin..the whole rear end does not have to be disturbed from the body at all...as for outer axle bearings..just pop some new ones in...a donor car from other years up to I think 52 would give you the pumpkin..however..as I mentioned..your axles are year specific...

nla

the 200 degrees would explain the 3/4 hot reading...just 12 from boiling...you may have some blocking up there prevent flow about the unit..sad part is that if not careful, the removing of the bulb may cause tube to break..this is a very tough item to remove due to rust over the years...about the only way to verify that you may have a blockange is to remove the sender...mount another there for double checking actual temp...