Plymouthy Adams

Sharpe is making a very affordable smooth operating spray gun now that can be had for about a C note. It is the Finex line, easy to use...nice aluminum cup and the easiest gun to clean Ihave ever owned. It is gravity feed...as with any HVLP gun the secret is in the input air supply...volume is the key, larger supply line, gun base will be marked with inlet pressure for the at gun installed regulator you will provide...this is what makes the gun work..the inlet pressure maintain and ensures that the tip is not exceeding 10 PSI per clean air act etc etc...not only will this keep you within EPA regs, it also prevents bounce from the surface from too much pressure.

Pete..check your PM...info sent

Jonny...I have gone with steering column changes on all three my cars...so I really don't know just what manifold will do the best. I can say this though...as for steering, two are subframed and one is the Cavalier R&P. The Cavalier I used a truck center dump manifold on drivers side..perfect clearance and even be more if I used the later model short starter. Stock is on the right..this is a big block so it is about 3 inches wider and only 1 inch longer footprint compared to the LA engine. The other is a V6 and manifolds are stock...3.9 Magnum..again however I am using a Chrysler FWD based column. This engine is about 7 inches rear of factory placement on the Dakota frame..plenty of room at the unmodified firewall... On the 52 Club Coupe the manifold here has to be the late model standard 360 manifold of the '79 variety rear dumper with a slight bend to give you a straight dump when mounted to the wedge of the head..I experimented with a factory truck cneter dump but the modified engine mount is more an isse than anything else. On another note, the stock columns are easily cut to just beyond the firewall, bushing made and inserted with a nice clamp/brace for lower support..this can be on either side of your firewall...welding up a joint for the Flaming River/Borgeson joint. I have seen these..I am entertaining the thought of doing the 48 Plymouth just this way as I want to keep the inside dash looking factory as best I can...beside they have a gerogous steering wheel and center.

How do you say John Deere..yellow top of course...is this what you had in mind. We have two vehicles around this area in John Deere motiff...one a truck..not so bad..would be right at home at a dealership as deliverly truck...the other a big Impalla...just a tad over the line...lol

I am very happy to see these parts live on...take care of the car..she be a beaut' Have you really researched the significance of the center dot on the crest..??? Very interesting read...would love to have an original introduction crest for my 41.

nla

Of more importance would be the lowest ????

Eric..if your 48 is the one pictured on your profile, it is a Plymouth...not to be confused with the Dodge...the Dodges had butterfly hoods except for the export model which is basically your car (Plymouth) in Dodge trim.

rare these days ..congrats and wishes for many more...

I grabbed my International Harvester truck book opened straight to the picture of a 1941 DS300 cab-over...it is a match...the grill surround, door hinge, handle, headlight and fender...identical to the one in the pic...

I find it very odd that all this electrical is happening after the post on Bad Amp meter....you answered very few question, in other threads I read you also done work to the Alternator by rebuild, changing from neg to positive gnd, you stated under dash wiring changed by you and also the rewiring of the OD wiring all at the same time...The solenoid should not fry as it is intended to operate with volts on one leg and ground on the other...I am more inclined to believe that a heavier current drain from somewhere else may have tried to use the solenoid as a path to ground..as in something is crosswired. This would explain the copper coil dropping out in small copper melted BB's..and as Gerorge has not had the privledge nor luxury to inspect your car and its wiring I can see how he can be at a loss for explaination and further I recall no other individuals ever having a problem of this nature with his units. I fully believe that an inspection of your wiring is necessary...this is frustrating to say the least and you are getting tired of the problem..it is time to back away...read a bit..grab a coffee..go over what you have done mentally and try to establish a base line point and return to that point prior to work done to your electrical. For it not to pop a fuse on the bench and immediately pop one in circuit on the car tells me there is a short to ground on the power feed...

Should have gotten the E58 360 engine from the Petty "kit car" as they call it....I have a 318 Volare here at the house behind the barn for future donor for the 48 Plymouth..have not decoded the rear gear though...hoping for about 2.72 to 2.94 ratio...

I remember the old joke..guy was argueing with the wife about the Jag XJ he wanted..but honey it comes with wood interior cut from the same 100 year old tree and hand polished...she said ok you have convinced me...call London and tell them to plant your tree...

Tony..I have moved all my stock removed components to Lou Earle....I do not find reference in my notes to stock..sorry but I think I have let you down.. PM sent

Rodney..there are two wires off the switch then this is just an inline set up. In reality you should be transferring a + voltage to the sloenoid coil and the solenoid itself is grounded completeing the loop. This switch should not need grounding..do not ground the wires coming off...agian one is hot always..the other is hot when pressed and goes to the solenoid.

The energizing coil in the solenoid does not draw very much current but only transfers a solid high current connection. So you whould be fine putting on a later model..IF you are concerned at all, get one for a diesel engine as these puppies really draw current so the contacts will surely be rated enough to carry the load. The 6 volt set up requires 335 amps when pushing with a 6 volt battery..a 12 volt stater motor on the average is between 180-230 amps depending on engine size and C.R. Your alternator should be putting out at in the vicinity of 13.8-14.2 volts...with a good voltmeter you should see a higher reading over battery level. To check the current output requires a shunt or clip on amp-probe. (shunt preferred) Even with the one wire alternator when ticked should put out about 6-8mps idling..this curent should stay in this area as you increase the load by turning on lights etc...if it does with lights then maybe the fan motor and all of the sudden you load it wil the brake light and it fall off to zero.. and does not recover just off idle...chances are your voltage regulator is breaking down. Your battery must also be in optimum condition so as not to put a flase load on the regualtor..an internal shorted cell will do this for you.

Ed...that points...as in more than one...

I went and read what you meant after my post...and in that effect yes...antikknock sensors are a must..I love electronic controlled engines... stock turbo system..no-no still yet... I like Turbo..horsepower for free...have had a few..still have a Shelby CS engine in the garage...sold one because the cops were always turning around to follow it..GLH and the other was my favorite...1989 Dodge Caravan 2.5 Turbo 5 speed....sure wish I had kept that one..after 200,000 miles I figured it may be a good time to let it go while all was running well and looking good....

All turbo's I know do not recommmnd alcohol mix ...owners manual say no-no But hey..they just enigneers...

These are invaluable....I have one and have used it a number of times...definitely a recommended tool for your shop... Another old trick to chasing threads is to run the nut up to where it binds..tap it 360 degrees with hammer..you can continue runing it up and dressing the thread like this in emergency...best performed when you an back the opposite side against a anvil or other heavy stationary item.

OIL BATH AIR CLEANER In the oil bath air cleaner, shown in Figure 3–7, air is drawn through the inlet and down through the center tube. At the bottom of the tube, the direction of air flow is reversed and oil is picked up from the oil reservoir cup. The oil-laden air is carried up into the separator screen, where the oil, which contains the dirt particles, is separated from the air by collecting on the separator screen. A low-pressure area is created toward the center of the air cleaner as the air passes a cylindrical opening formed by the outer perimeter of the central tube and the inner diameter of the separator screen. This low pressure is caused by the difference in air current velocity across the opening. The low-pressure area, plus the effect of gravity and the inverted cone shape of the separator screen, causes the oil and dirt mixture to drain to the center of the cleaner cup. This oil is again picked up by the incoming air, causing a looping cycle of the oil; however, as the oil is carried toward another cycle, some of the oil overflows the edge of the cup, carrying the dirt with it. The dirt is deposited in the outer area surrounding the cup. Oil then flows back into the cup through a small hole located in the side of the cup. Above the separator screen, the cleaner is filled with a wire screen element, which removes any oil that passes through the separator screen. This oil also drains to the center and back into the pan. The clean air then leaves the cleaner through a tube at the side/top and enters the intake system.

On another note abut the square cut o-ring..its job is basically three fold, 1 seal 2 allow piston adjust by sliding through the seal 3 it is the single one device that pulls the piston off the pad for your pad to rotor clearance. (seal roll just a tad under the applied pressure and its returning to its natural shape is the action) This was taught by National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence back in the mid 70's when I was a certified mechanic through their organization.

what was that?? non hardening nuclear cereal varnish.. that is my all time favorite Christmas movie...follewed by A Christmas Story.

Norm..I agree with Merle...I once bought a set that did close to the same thing you described...close inspection revealed that the lever was binding and not fully engaging the locking device...removed lifting ratchet..made a few deep cycles of the lever with a rubber hammer...freed up and have been excellent since...I do perfer them over the earlier ones where you insert a pin..they are quick and esy to position and remove...I have about 8 of these babies..you can see most all in use on the picture I posted...

I was making a funny but I remember well those very same cups growing up..very popular item. I do have a picnic basket and a clay lined Coleman water jug...not much else..got a genuine aluminum shaker can marked Ovaltine...