Plymouthy Adams

Allan..I did that just in case this is in the development stage...not looking for trade secrets..just some more information..silicone and paint has never been friends... I am thinking the product may be in fact be "silicone/fisheye eliminator" that was given to him..this will allow the paint to lay flat just in case there is a bit of silicone contamination. And yes ..just a few drops are all that is necessary even when spray painting very thin coats...I have seen fisheyes and leisons due to contanimated surface. Even wiping with a prep wash (naptha, can you say lighter fluid) twice and tacking off....fallout is always a problem. I have found that the double wipe of naptha goes a long way in cleaning the surface just moments prior to your first tack coat.

I am not sure that this is the problem and the way to correct the situation. Outside of a major frame twist in the rear or enlonged front eye bolts..I can no reason to make a change here...get your book out and look at the frame section and use some tramel points and gauge or at least a plumb bob and tape on a smooth flat garage floor. Further the front eye is positioned in a fixed pernament loation..the flattening of the leaf spring will alter length but to have the difference you have would be an extemely distorted spring arch to the naked eye..the length of the spring and its subtle changes during road bounce is absorbed by the rear shackle and bushings. I have seen plenty of these units wore to the max...although by appearance you may have solid looking rear eye bushing, rest assured that if they have any age on them at all they are worn flat on one side..the appearace to the eye will not detect this on casual observation as the part you see is not subject to this wear. Further on this is that if in the past these shackle were subjected to metal to metal contact due to worn rear bushings I can assure you that the rear leaf eye is indeed enlongated and the shackle bolt will be flattened also...the combination of these two worn spots and add the worn bushing make for a lot of slop. If you spring eye is worn, these can be welded and re-bored for correct diameter hole..new shackes and bushings are available but can be a bit hard to find on a drop of a hat...you can build your own shackles out of grade 8 hardware...please if you go this route pay strict attention to the distance between the bolts on the shackle..do not lengthen these as it will cause the leaf spring to lose it profile at a very quick rate and as such you will see thae sag return to even new spring on the rear portion of the leaf...never ever try to alter the profile of the car from changing this shackle measurement..

Wow...silicone added to paint...I know when I spray I use a silicone eliminator so as not to fisheye/leison on me. Further I use buffing compunds that are silicone free to eliminate possible contamination of a surface due to silicone fallout...if this is something that is say in the primary stages of development, I am very curious of this paint formula..if you have addition info..please PM me on this.. Thanks

nla

tell him to chuck up the boring bar and let the big dog eat....

South of where???????????????????? I have been in Dixie all my life..and never but ever seen peanut butter on grits...and the deeper the south..the worse the mollasses..however I conceed that you cannot make a good popcorn ball without mollasses...

Allan..these engine has real metal in them...even engines of the 70-80 had enough metal for a .030 bore and still run cool..now granted in some of the later block of today..some cannot be bored as much..lighter casting for lighter cars. What age is this guy? If he is young he may not have any experience with real cast iron and is drawing only from his knowledge of today's iron..and yes a good achinist will only take off what needs to be done to clean the bore to the least oversize available keeping the block servicable for another future clean up. As mentioned above..the bore fo these block was the difference..will be an easy job...plus you hve the istons and ring in hand for a hone fit..cannot see the problem doing what the "owner" wants.

I personally think the brace is a needed item..maybe not when the car was new but with age and the opening and closing of the hood. slight hood hinge wear..this brace will help keep the left to right measurement in line and prevent hood edge from meeting Mister Fenderlip..I have one here from a 49..have never compared it to the 48 hood. I also did not think to look at the 48 in the yard to see if it had one..maybe next time I am that way I will check...

Mullet..fun fish to catch..they be lots of fun..eating..not sure even smoked because of the hair like bones..I can share an old time favorite recipe for mullet...you need to near near a farm though as the main ingredient, 4.5 lbs of horse manure is needed...take that, 3 fresh mullet, preheat oven at...yada yada yada ..2 hours later throw away the mullet and eat the horse manure...

While that is true...it can be one serious pain in the butt to lock the engine from rotation when airing up the cylinder...it must be checked TDC compression stoke, both valves closed...90-120 lbs of air pressure will rotate the slud to BDC as soon as you shoot the air to it...in gear, emergency brake on, may not yet be enough to prevent the engine from rotating..but...once locked in TDC and air applied..the test Bob mentions are very helpful in looking for compression loss..during this test I recommend that the radiator be filled real close to capacity so to view any bubbles into the cooling system via a blown headgasket...last one I did took putting the tranny in gear and someone standing on the brakes, (disc) real hard to prevent engine from moving.. Lou has run enough water down that carb when he got it to clean the carbon that the thing is dang near weaned off gasoline....

James..the starter solenoid can be easily energized by a standard square 30/40 amp relay referred to as the Bosch design...use this relay and any light duty switch taking the relay coil to ground...most of these stock pushbutton switches are in the 10 to 15 amp rated so could handle the standard starter solenoid as is...big block small block 4/6/8 has nothing to do with it..that rating will apply to the current of starter motor itself..most 6-8 cyl. engines will draw 180-240 amps of current on the starter windings...diesel and some larger high compressions can run even higher reaching 450 amp draw. Reading more and more from your various posts now reveals a bit more insight on the condition of your cars electrical system...partial conversion, Optima battery, changing from gen to alt, changing alt from neg to pos and then eliminating control circuits for the older tranny and now upgrading that wiring for the OD you installed...I say this before you spend a lot of your money...I would ensure that my battery was in optimum condition and get the present unit doing what it is supposed to be doing. If you cannot get it to work properly with the smaller alternator which by the way is sufficient for you needs, I feel you may be installing a larger alternator and not fix your problem..but then again if your alternator is bad, even after rebuild/conversion, internal regualtors can be wishy washy, it might just be the easiest fix...you never stated what the electrical shop found but mentioned in two threads you were going to take it in for diagnostics...

It is not quite peanut season..the wheat just got harvested..sometims they plant the peanuts just after the wheat fields are burnt.. When peanuts are being harvested..seems every 30 cup coffee maker at work is cooking peanuts..they sure smell good..but I have NEVER eaten one..sorry..could be the best treat in the world..I do however like them raw..just before you throw them in the boiler..I prefer them raw over roasted.. We have stands here that run year around..it depends on wether or not the person has stocked enough peanuts for the year...

Only one...vinegar disolves cast iron...

Unless you just don't want to shift, gonna be hard to beat the OD...as for cost of an auto, the adapter, and things like linkage, kickdown cables and driveshafts, cross members and alternate method of applying the emergency brake..dollar for dollar and time involved..the OD looks prime in my book..especially with a flat head.

Calybill...interesting read... http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/clutch.htm

James ..have sent diagram and message to your online website...and also a PM through this page...

Looking good Fred...might I suggest a carport just in case you have to move out there for a spell...getting "real close" with your car..wives get that way ya know...

with the dry we are having, humidity is like non existant...this is making for bearable work days in the shop..I have been taking advantage of this best I can...got so much more done this weekend toward the lite off of the engine..my oil cooler for the tranny is plumbed and mounted..overflow tank in place, metal fuel line from the carb to below the engine is shaped and mounted for "vibration/engine movement under torque" Every little thing done today is one less for tomorrow...got to live by that for now..lots other small nit-picking things done...plus polishing up the parts from the junkyard run.

Appreciate you thinking of us...it will be Saturday late before we are ever forcast for rain...and then that is so far in to the future one cannot rely on it one bit..I think we all are getting inverse weather not so much becuase of the tilt of the earth axis is shifting at this time but due to retailers gouging prices and it just suffers with the unjust...lol

get it ready for paint Brad, pull it to GA (5 hours form your house) and I will bomb the little bugger for you...or..you can do it yourself, use my booth and my guns....the fun is in doing it yourself....anybody can pay for a paint job....lol

Looking good..going to be a real solid bigbutt....

Sorry James..as everything is going through your amp guage then I am like you, totally at a loss for the erratic action..I had specifically asked that questione arlier and did not get an answer..otherwise I would not have posted the possibility of connecting straight to the battery..I made that comment because most sites that reference installation of a 1 wire recommend to connect direct to the battery. Hope it did not rufle feathers...was not my intent...the one site I referenced talked about a very similar erratic action.

I am thinking like I said in the beginning of this thread...it has been connected directly to the battery being a one wire and he is by passing the amp gauge..only a portion of his current is flowing through the gauge..

Norm..to quote you..."Don't think I could do all that sanding with my arthritis" and that is more than enough reason to leave it be..however I stand firm on the Tremclad website and thier own specific instruction to clean, sand, convert, prime and then topcoat...I just cannot justify omitting a step when you are already there to begins with...if it will last for years with just a so called one step..think of the lasting qualities floowing the prescribed steps...I have been using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer for base primer now since 1984...but I still block that..apply my primer surfacer in prep for a top caot..i still do not top coat Rustoleum..

Thanks Greg..I second that.... Tim Adams 3 years U S Army 17+ years U S Air Force Reserves.. Currently 30+ DoD weapons/communication support depot level (33 including my Army buy-back)