Plymouthy Adams

With any improvement in breathing the cam must be profiled to take advantage of this. The cam should be changed to at least a moderate 260 or better...at the same time exhausting what the engine will now take in is a must..dual exhaust would be an advantage. Jetting the carbs for proper fuel ratio is also a must..else you run a bit rich..syncing carbs is paramount and proper tools will be needed.

The part number of the regualtor I used eludes me at the moment, mine is already mounted under the dash of my car. Somewhere in the shop in a small folder is all the info. This is avialable on the internet when I find the part number..circuits and all, parts list etc. for making the device. Really simple..mounting the components on another board and inter-connecting is a pain, going minature as I did with the socket mounted items makes it better in my book. If I run across this today I will post the info.

oh boy...lips and a-holes..no hot dog is a hot dog without them...remember..everything on a hog is consumable except for the squeal

The radio will be a major deal..due to grounding..I for that reason and consideration of AC install did not install it. Besides, the old radio tough neat in looks is not really a useable item. (quality stations are not comon IMHO) Mount it, hook up the light for looks, mount an aftermarket good stereo out of sight. Actually if you go with 12 volt, go with negative ground, change all your bulbs, use a Runtz resistor on the blower motor and if electric wipers, use one there, you can build a variable regulator that is about the size of a small match box that is positive ground as it is so isolation is an issue..this unit will handle 12 amps of continious curent, surge to 15 amp. I have one in my car and is negative ground, thus I have it isolated. Be sure your iso box is well vented. This device will fold if shorted and not burn out... As you can see, the device is self contained, the control circuit and filtering is external and small enough to solder on the socket. The red rectangle is the variable resistor for adjusting the voltage...the heat sink is a must. If you iso-mount, be sure the box is drilled for good ventialtion.

http://indymotorspeedway.com/500sit-inf.html Wikipedia also has some nice facts about the track.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indianapolis_Motor_Speedway FROM THE MAP PAGE FOR SEATING: http://indymotorspeedway.com/500sit.html You can sit inside the track. At other oval tracks, the stands are all on the outside of the oval. At Indianapolis, there are many stands on the inside as well. There are also grassy hills in the infield where people can watch the race.

My independent hardware store carries it...I have never done a search for the stuff on the internet...here is the skinny off the jug...including internet addy B52 Brown Bomber (The Unltimate Degreaser) Hollander Corporation 1-800-741-5000 www.hollanderproducts.com It has the price tage of 8.99 on the gallon jug.

I use a liquid concentrate know as B52...it is a brown soap and I just spray it on my white walls and raised letter tires and use just a 2" paint brush to aggitate..clear rinse..super brite whites...about 8 bucks a gallon

I may have called the area by the wrong name but we certainly were in the inner circle of the track and seated in bleachers...man that was 23 years ago....might be the rolling cars shut this area down..was there only once.

Don...the black boxes I repair are liquid cooled with cooling oil..that stuff is nasty...

Don..talk about a memory...I rode from Charleston SC in 1984 to Indianapolis to see the 500...it was an adventure for sure...I was amazed that the locals routed motorcycles down the sidewalk and got us into a special parking area...we had no tickets in advance...paid a scalper 24.00 I think for infield seats...was a good trip all around. Wild in the snakepit...more b**bies than you could shake a stick at...

Don..you be surprised at the number of water cooled bikes including two strokers...my 84 is water cooled also...one of my favorite items when two stroke running..Blendzoil (sp)...man does this stuff have a funky odor that lingers in the air forever...my Elsionore engines loved this stuff..

dad had a knucklehead back in the day...his was not cut up like this pictured one..had leather bags and all...real sharp...his brother rode an Indian..they hit each other in a curve in the mountains...both went over the hill...pretty messy I understand...

Got your tank back in............could you elaborate on why it was out and what was done to the tank while removed from the vehicle?

Tony...most of these I have seen are pretty crude in some regard to the size and placement of the fuse panel. I do however have one here that is new in the box and came with the 41 Dodge when I got it...however for my application it was not sufficient for all the modern devices my car has. The circuit panel has a very small foot print, caries 20 fuses, 21 circuits and has the flashers etc...the company name is it's a snap www.itsasnapwireandcable.com I probably will install this harness in my 48 Plymouth as I do not intend to dress it out as much as I have the 41 Dodge...I do like the smaller footprint of the item..install books looks great, wiring for both GM and Chrysler components drawings are included..price looks very reasonable .. Just returned from the shop...mine carries a zz20 part number....not sure how old this brochure is but it list the harness at 265.00 plus 100.00 instant rebate for 165.00 out the door price...

Greg..just got back in from a road trip...could not get on site very well..limited access to computer and the one I did get to was on dial-up...enough said there.!!! I looked at the shot of your crossmember...as it attaches to the side rails, only thing coming to mind at the moment, not clearly pictured is the 18-20 inches to the rear...concern here is the mounting of the master cylinder and if the newly positioned cross member is of the design to refit here and clear. Other than that the install is looking clean thus far...few more pictures would be great...

I think the dropping resistor you need goes by the name RUNTZ...check it out on the net....the voltage will surge at first turn on, allows fast spin up then adjusts the voltage..the motors can take this surge without a problem.

Norm..don't know about the hot air..but was talking to my stock broker yesterday..he advise me to "hold my water and pass my gas"

He's just scoping the place and checking your attitude..he is just waiting at the chance to use your place for a wild party when you go off...they don't call him rockin' Robin for nothing...

Mopar air is out there..you just need to get up to the right speed in order to compress it...

nla

Thanks Norm...I have a couple of these radios about the place...have printed a copy..much obliged.

I have always had the silicone to set..have some that take quite a while sometimes..sure age does have a role in this...was the mixture when applied smooth or was it showing signs of chemical seperation? If there is sign of the mix seperating interally..chunk it...not worth the hassle to clean and re-do.

James..you are correct about the placement of the holes in the newer dual sockets..I found a bunch of pigtails at the local swap meet last year and these were drilled ever 90 degrees so all you had to do was index them....made upgrading a snap...you can find these most the time at the site where lots of automotive electrical is set on display, tape, lugs, fuses, lamps etc...They are not expensive at all. Just wired mine night before last...also quick connect water tight pigtails are recommended here also..makes for easy off and on...

nla

I am sure he wants it for to complete the looks of the car...I will have mine installed but never to be used..Widow Makers one and all...