Plymouthy Adams

OIL BATH AIR CLEANER In the oil bath air cleaner, shown in Figure 3–7, air is drawn through the inlet and down through the center tube. At the bottom of the tube, the direction of air flow is reversed and oil is picked up from the oil reservoir cup. The oil-laden air is carried up into the separator screen, where the oil, which contains the dirt particles, is separated from the air by collecting on the separator screen. A low-pressure area is created toward the center of the air cleaner as the air passes a cylindrical opening formed by the outer perimeter of the central tube and the inner diameter of the separator screen. This low pressure is caused by the difference in air current velocity across the opening. The low-pressure area, plus the effect of gravity and the inverted cone shape of the separator screen, causes the oil and dirt mixture to drain to the center of the cleaner cup. This oil is again picked up by the incoming air, causing a looping cycle of the oil; however, as the oil is carried toward another cycle, some of the oil overflows the edge of the cup, carrying the dirt with it. The dirt is deposited in the outer area surrounding the cup. Oil then flows back into the cup through a small hole located in the side of the cup. Above the separator screen, the cleaner is filled with a wire screen element, which removes any oil that passes through the separator screen. This oil also drains to the center and back into the pan. The clean air then leaves the cleaner through a tube at the side/top and enters the intake system.

On another note abut the square cut o-ring..its job is basically three fold, 1 seal 2 allow piston adjust by sliding through the seal 3 it is the single one device that pulls the piston off the pad for your pad to rotor clearance. (seal roll just a tad under the applied pressure and its returning to its natural shape is the action) This was taught by National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence back in the mid 70's when I was a certified mechanic through their organization.

what was that?? non hardening nuclear cereal varnish.. that is my all time favorite Christmas movie...follewed by A Christmas Story.

Norm..I agree with Merle...I once bought a set that did close to the same thing you described...close inspection revealed that the lever was binding and not fully engaging the locking device...removed lifting ratchet..made a few deep cycles of the lever with a rubber hammer...freed up and have been excellent since...I do perfer them over the earlier ones where you insert a pin..they are quick and esy to position and remove...I have about 8 of these babies..you can see most all in use on the picture I posted...

I was making a funny but I remember well those very same cups growing up..very popular item. I do have a picnic basket and a clay lined Coleman water jug...not much else..got a genuine aluminum shaker can marked Ovaltine...

on mine it went through the interior compartment but did a quick curve back out through the firewall..

When I remove the body from the coupe and the wagon..I place 6 x 6 timers under them supported on jack stands...they were very rigid...as a safety factor..after the frame was roolled out from under I also put a jack stand on either end to further prevent tipping..I think that was overkill...

Its been said that growing up and drinking out of aluminum cups, pie plates, aluminum cooking pans has greatly increased one's chance of getting a disease that affect the memory..can't recall the name at this time..

I think I remember reading where later the air cleaner choice was an option..

Definitely paper...less muss and fuss...have converted mine...

nla

Don't fix anything that works...save your efforts till you have to toss the coin on originality, cost and availability being such that the new stuff now looks good...

give me the desert water bag baby with stock lights...them frenchie things are pure-t-ulgy The green machine and the grille is very different..not a deep french on the lights...clean install however that nose is just too large and plain..area would be better served with a hood ornament (minimum a bullnose) and the Plymouth letters relly need to be there...and just what is that on the rocker????? guess I am a bumper whore...

The airbag is a self contained unit with self diagnostics and auto arming after static check at each ignition switch cycle. Wiring it is not in the lest bit hard..the only vague area is the display lamp power source. On a further note, when removing your steering coulmn..wire it in a fixed postion with the removed postion of the front wheel pointing straight ahead. Please bear in mind that the clock spring can only take x-revoulution in any direction..damage to the unit will result...if....you think at any time the unit may have been turned off center..the clock spring can be removed...and repositioned..the procedure is in the book..at no time..energize the airbag while fcing the wheel until all tests are executed and several turns lock to lock has been performed. The basic column is also the same in the earlier pre airbag cars of front wheel design and you may feel more confortable with one of these. I put one from a 86 Chrysler FWD into a 50 Chebbie pickup..slick as a ribbon..matched the interior and removed the crystal pentastar and smoothed it and epoxied a ugh.. I hate to say, bowtie there...fit the decor..man loved the new column and all the benfits of modern control at the fingertip. Wondered how he went that long without it...he said...

Ed..I have had two D24's at the house..a sedan and a business coupe..did not keep either long...the business coupe I bought mainly for the dash..traded out with the 41 dash which I don't care for and upgraded to the D24's which I think is one of, if not the sharpest factory dash setups going. Chrome left to right top to bottom..slick.... The sedan I purchased for the interior...as the lower body was in very bad shape. they both went to the same person so that the best of two would go into one..and yes..the bottom of the bumper and it's affixed gravel pan is the killer for just removing the bumper and dressing up. Very much like the 51/52Plymouths I own..gravel pan is on the 41 also but stands of from the body and is butterlfy shaped itself..off or on stil looks good..even looks good with original bumper without pan...some cars are a challenge..the D24 is one of them.

just think if the pictures were in sync with your handle "rearview"

Shock kit was part of brake setup at the time... Acclaim column, cut the pig tail and take the entire unit with harness..really not that many wires..I have every aspect of that coumn wired into my 41 Dodge, including airbag, cruise control and intermittant wipers down to the timed halo light and key in alarm. Built/spliced my own harness..remember a wiring harness is just a bunch of independent circuits neatly bundled together and breaking out of the loom in general proximity to the accessory you are connecting. Use a truck center dump manifold...allows for room for the steering, starter and my H-pipe will slip right out from under the car in one piece..one easy drop and twist, ball sockets on the ends..granted..building your own harness from donor cars is a bit time consuming but you still get to use a factory schematic, wiring colors, and you know the guage is engineered to work..all you are doing is tailoring it to your car...no need to go to a wire gauge chart..but you can if you want..I did source it on occasion. IMHO, headers are for race track only..would not run one on the street for love nor money..nor would I run an aftermarket aluminum intake on a Mopar for the street..get a stock dual plane cast iron...you loose just too much performance and idling characteristic not to mention low rpm torque and horsepower. Stick with the Mopar viscus fan of assymetrical design for added horsepower...water pump, fans and alternators under load rate right up thee with the best of horse thieves. Your choice of the 318 allow you to use the 5 speed manual if you wish from the Dakota line up, or the a500 or a518 OD autos or any other base line tranny of RWD configuaration..please note that all RWD trannies either auto or maunal had the same length to the cross menber mount..BUT this is not true with the OD units..the mount is in different location here...be advised of this and make sure you select the tranny you want in the beginning.

I have converted a couple Sunbeam Tiger's from generator to alternator..stock bracket is a bolt on, belt alignment is not an issue and shimming with washers is not needed, stock wiring harness is used, pigtail is still used..throw out the old reg and pop in a electronic unit...just to easy. The upgrade to Chrysler electronic ignition on the Ford is a vast improvement..best thing is that the wiring harness is not altered to where in a emergency or going for show cannot go back stock in just a few minutes..stock coil, stock dropping resistor.. The billet mindset is alive and well out there..there are just as many alternatives as there are products

to be honest with you YOU DON'T WANT TO SEE IT ALL....

My golly what put a GM on when any Ford alternator would do the trick..and the reason for that statement is that even if your car came with a mechanical regulator..pull it, toss it and bolt in the replacement electronic unit..low cost..no maintenace same bolt pattern and even the old pigtail retrofits and slides right on..a true no brainer...still have the idiot light and tickle on igition circuit...I SEE NO IMPROVEMENT HERE

One of the first benefits is not needing the special high dollar hard to obtain A body drivers manifold that humps up and curves. The Acclaim column I have put in 4 vehicles...just too easy...Cavalier rack allows easy position behind the wheels and connects with Borgenson/Flaming River joints that also might I add works with the Acclaim column. Basically everything you have described is what has been done to my 41 Dodge...with lots of other small details added in the mix. Of course the Mopar big block is in mine, center dump on the drivers side, rear sump oil pan from the truck, 6 quart capacity with pan mounted dipstick. I can say this..my front suspension with the lowering spindles have netted at bests 4 inches ground clearance without altered springs. Do the shock relocation. Remeber the aftermarket columns are base GM copies..Camaro are used extensively in rodding but don't overlook the Dakota truck in this area..same length as the Camaro..better tilt and electrical componets also..when it comes to your tranny hook up..get the right parts from the yard and it is a bolt in..and the cables just snap in place...

While that book may be one heck of a source..sourcing the book may prove difficult at minimum. There are many different approaches to do this job..and as such many references on the internet with pictures and such on how to do it. Recommend that you first determine how you want to do your car. Original frame suspension and upgrade engine only. Upgrade stock suspension along with the eingine and tranny. Or you can subframe. Once YOU decide on what characteristics you wish your car to have..then search for details on that approach. If you are doing this work yourself you must have the room to tear down and spreadout your componets, necessary tools for handling the engine and tranny plus metal cutting and welding equipment to fabricate mounts, brackets etc to complete your job. BUT if you are going to farm this out, your choice of builder already has the tools, space and skills to do the job and as such his approach will have to agree with what you picture as end results. These are also point of no return to consider with mods...if this don't work can I go back to stock etc. Searching the internet will definitely give you some insight here....Fatman, Plydo and even some of our forum members fabricate various pieces parts for engine/tranny, suspension and brakes to help get you where you are going.

One piece at a time...lol

I personally think the top chop would be an extreme amount of money that could well be spent in other places...as the top does stow away...put a good boot cover over it and ride...I have the luxury of inside storage on my car..and ammittantly does not get out often..I cand count on two hands with digits left over how many times the top has been raised...

Ed..the stock nose piece of the 1941 Dodge D19 needs ablsoluetey no work to dress if you remove the bumpers..it is that slick a set up...I for one am not going to chance running without a bumper...The rear is also set up for a simple to make rollpan.. as you can see the damage..that was from it being pushed around by hand only with the bumper off prior to my taking ownership...