RobertKB

Nice project. That’s a 1954 Canadian Dodge. Firewall tag is most likely D49-3. D for Dodge, D with 49 was for 1954, and the 3 indicates Mayfair. If the engine is original to the car the serial number will start with D49 as well. Engine serial number is on the block above the generator and immediately below the head. Engines were often changed out at some point and may be different.

Thanks for letting us know what happened as you said you would. ?

I just put the pointy bit on the bottom dead centre into the plug wire, fold the two sides up as much as I can with my fingers. I then insert the plug wire into the rotor and push until it hits the bottom. This gives you a nice, tight fit. Make sure you put the waterproof cap on the wire before doing this and once the wire is in place, push the cap down over the rotor tower. I have never felt the need to buy a tool for this job when nature has provided me with fingers. incidentally, you are showing the correct tool in your picture.

I have a year of manufacture (YOM) plate on my ‘51 Dodge D39 business coupe. When I tell people the car is a ‘51 they often ask why do you have a ‘52 plate on it or they’ll say the car is a ‘52 based on the plate. It really is a ‘51 plate as it says EX.31.3.52 which means it expires on the 31st of March, 1952 and must be replaced by that date. The expiry part disappeared on ‘52 plates onward. Looks like ‘51 was the last year for the expiry date on the plate which started in 1937 for whatever reason. I can remember the huge line-ups to get a new plate in the days before we went to plates expiring at different months throughout the year sometime in the 70’s. Just wondering if there were other provinces or states besides Alberta that dated their plates this way. My ‘48 Dodge D25 club coupe is often mistaken for a ‘49 for the same reason.

Please keep it a flattie. It goes so well with the great patina on the truck.

Great project car for someone with deep pockets, lots of restoration skills, and the desire to restore a rare and wonderful car. I hope it eventually goes to that kind of buyer!

Floor jack likely not enough. Look at the angle the column is at and then the length of the column. It’s got to be up pretty high. Also you nee to remove steering wheel and tie rod ends. No need to remove the steering column support with shifting mechanism. Assuming you only want steering box and shaft.

You can wait for retirement. It just means you’re that much older! More miles behind you than there are now. ? billrigsby.........nice job. It will certainly save time when needing something!

Right answer for the original poster’s question. Also, if the drive pinion bearing retainer bolts are leaking, I would use a thread sealant rather put goop on the outside although I’m sure it will work also.

I have to think you need more than 90” which is only 7 1/2 feet. You should be able to measure the old one in situ or better yet remove it and get a really accurate measurement.

No need to get discouraged. Some great advice has been given to you. I will only add that yes it is a big job but you need to remember the old saying, “You can eat an elephant..........one bite at a time.” Be patient, ask lots of questions on this forum, and use this as a learning experience. PS - I would try to avoid using a crowbar on the flywheel teeth. I would use the front crankshaft nut instead as mentioned above when trying to turn the engine.

Looks great but more pics please. We all love pics. That is one great car!

I was wondering when this thread would appear again. I’ve been missing it. The car looks magnificent. I know I and others are looking forward to the maiden drive pictures. I’ve always liked the ‘55-56 Pontiacs

I think you got a real deal at US$300. Most of what’s out there is junk and to find one as good as you did is great. As I always say, “ You gotta pay to play.” And I like to play with four old cars. A lot of people who think we spend too much money on our old cars are the same ones who will send $2-3 on a bottle of water and then complain about the price of gas, which is way less than the water. I pay maybe 1/4 cent for a bottle of water outta my tap. ?

That’s how I replace those clips. Small machine bolt that just fits through rivet hole. Bolt head is never larger than rivet head so works well. Place clip in place, then lock washer and finally nut. Bolt and nut are totally hidden by the cap. I usually cut the bolt to wanted length and when everything is in place paint them wheel colour. Not noticeable unless pointed out and unseen with cap on as mentioned.

I’ve always had good luck with PB Blaster.

Yes, you need to use common sense and be careful with lead but sometimes I think we go a bit overboard. My Dad told me of playing with lead soldiers painted with lead based paint when he was a child living in England. He used to suck on them too. He died two years ago at the grand old age of 99 after practicing medicine for nearly 50 years. No lead poisoning involved. Common sense sometime appears to be a disappearing human trait. Certainly, if stripping large quantities of lead paint wear appropriate apparatus but otherwise use common sense.

One of my old cars does the same. I eliminate the 2nd to 3rd grinding by shifting a bit slowly and just giving it a few extra rpm as It passes neutral on the way to third. I don’t actually double clutch.

Gotta pay play. I know I’ve overpaid for some items that I need and rarely come up. I just don’t want to take the chance of missing out. I bet that DeSoto medallion goes for asking price of close to. Someone out there will want it desperately and be willing to pay. If I was restoring a show car 49 DeSoto and needed that part to finish the project, I’d be all over it.

I figure if paint is that hard to remove it’s not ever going to come off. At that point I just prime and paint over it.

I agree. Damage can occur to a non-vented tank. Nature abhors a vacuum is the physics involved.

Great advice! That's all I ever do with the old rims. If you've ever tried to undo lug bolts or nuts that were tightened with an big impact wrench you will understand the old timers' advice! New rims/wheels are different and should be torqued down and often retorqued a hundred miles later although I've never had an issue with retorquing.

Please let us know what happens.

Just google 1938 Dodge business coupe. There are a couple that show the trunk. This was one. The other I saw showed the emblem in the same place. Look on the inside of your trunk for filled-in holes. Your car would have had a trunk emblem originally. Edit.........and the other.

Google “Buick Club of America”.