greg g

Welcome to the board. Nice looking pair of MOPARS. Will your friend be registering also???

Here is a simple schematic. The one's that reg posted are in series 6X4= 24, in parrellel, you multiply the amps but maintain the voltage. So if your truck is still 6V and you want to run two bats you want parrellel. I remember early 60's MGB's ran 12V pos by running two 6V in series. Musta been a LUCAS invention........

Looks like yer knocking off some good sized chips. Looks great. Are you putting the clip back on before paint, or painting the pieces seperately??? My paint job was done over 2 years. Did the hood, fenders, inners, grill support, splash pan. Trunk lid, rear fenders. These were wrapped in plastic and hung from the rafters of my painter's shop. Then the body was done, stripped down to bare metal below the windows ( DA sanded above as it was original paint) the lower section was apinte at least once, and I wanted to know what was under it. It was put back together then, color sanded and buffed.

Derek, where are you storing your photos, and what setting are you using on your camera??? If you have a high mega pixel cam and you are using a high resolution setting, this could be part of the problem. I am using an old Panasonic cam with only 1.3 mega pixels (yes it is that old) and I haveit set on its lowest resolution. I can get about 90 pics on one card so no mater what size, my pics seem to post OK. So maybe resetting your cam will help with future pics. For pics you have stored on your computer, I believe you can upload them to a host and resize them there. Try something like Image Shack, or photobucket and try resizing and posting them from there. I was using Image Shack, http://imageshack.us/ for posting individual pics, as you don't need to register or start an account to post pics. Photobucket provides the same kind of services but you need to register and set up an account. Either one will give you an uploadable image. then you can save your resized pic back to your computer if you prefer to hold them there rather than on someone else's server. There is another option if you are already on an image server. Just post the link to the page you want to show. Or just post the link to the photo in the text of your message,like this; http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/2614/yeaflathead2vi8.png

Looks like it may have used the font in ads; Found this on a US Power Giant site. This used as a grill emblem. Link to site; http://members.aol.com/powergiant/index.html

strange, I show up on mine.

Kinda neat little thing. Click on quick links and on the pull down menu select Who's on line. Tells you not only who is logged in but whatchu lookin at also. Good morning Clay, Fred, Ken, Mike M, Rockwood, Tony C, anf guest......

I have a model 36 in my P 15. It has a sem semicircular exchanger about three inches thick, so the pipe fittings are level. As noted previously, flow is flow and and it really doesn't matter. But gravity is also gravity and it probably makes more sense if the core has upper and lower fittings, to plumb it inlet at the top outlet at the bottom.

Robin, I found a a fellow who for about 150 bucks took both of mine and repaired and polished then back to very good condition. Here state side the passenger side ones (LHD) get pretty beat up from parking incidents that they are the rare ones. About 4 years ago, I saw two sets at Hershey. one was nos still in the packing tube for 550, and the other was a set of refurbished ones for about 375. I should mention my right side was pretty bad, flattened in a couple places and scratched pretty deeply. He did a nice job, and based on the current prices, in retrospect it was a good deal.

Kinda makes you think you can retire off that pile you bought?????? I believe thisis our friend Mr. Luzon. He seems to have a problem with decimal point placement. But I guess what the market bears, is what the market bears. How much stuff you got left for P's and D's??? Need a partner to polish?????

I have some from Robert's in a bax in the Garage, Good as new but I have no idea ( and apparently niether did Robert's) what it fits. It was for the two rear quarters and back light for my Bizzy coupe. It came in a one single long piece. Glass man cut one for the side window and stopped after about 15 minutes. So I bit the bullet and bought STEELE. for the Windshieds, 1/4's rear, and the ventwings. All wnet in with no problem and are leak free. There have been a couple of threads on the old forum about folks having problems wit the vent window pieces, but mine went on W/O any problem and fit perfectly.

Well maybe for Dual or tri power, Just grab the Roaster....OK OK wait till after thanksgiving..........

well the short block (US) version of the "218" comes from a bore of 3 1/4 inches and a stroke of 4 3/8 inches, equalling 217.8 cubic inches. So which would change to yield a difference of 2/10 of an inch divided by 6??? Can any of you Canadian friends, post the Bore and stroke measurments from the long block 218????

I got my 205 75r 15 uniroyals from Wally World, mounted and balances for 37 bucks a pop.

i got my 205 75 15 uniroyals for 38 bucks each at wally world.

Might be as simple as the stat being incorrect or installed upside down. The longer side should be in the head. As long as you are going to pull the stat. Run it without it to see what happens. Also put a thermometer in the radiator. the coolant should be a few degrees cooler in the Rad than it is where the temp gauge sender is. One other note, do not over fill the radiator. It should be filled so that there is about two inches of open space under the cap. Any more and it will just puke it out as it expands with the heat.

Glad you got her going!!! Don't be a stranger.

As long as it a a 23 inch head it will fit. Again the later the head the higher the compression ratio, so in terms of power later is better. I will take issue with Normspeeds zip equation in regards to rear end gearing. The higher the number the quicker the engine will get to high rpm in each gear. The lower the number the longer it will take to reach the same rpm, howerver the road speed wil be greater. That why drag racers concerned with only 1/4 mile acceleration like 4.10 and 4.11's and higher numeric ratios, and highway cruiser love them 3.21 and 2.73's etc.

I's would go with a slightly warmed 318 maybe some compression enhancement and a good 2bbl. dual exhaust, maybe an rv cam. With an OD torqueflite. Had a Dodge 150 Conversion van set up that way, think it had a 2.73 rear end. It consistantly got 17 to 18 MPG on regular. NIced relaxed cruising and sufficient power for towing and hills. I think the /6 would be taxed so much it would probably give worse milage and have less power. Of course a good 360 would also work, but milage drops to 13 to 14. My sister in law has a Pleasure Way Class B motor home on a Dodge 250 Van chassis with the 360. I don't think there was much of a difference in my conversion van and her's in terms of performance but her's iss definately thirstier.

Isn't that a sweet looking ride?????

So how come my 95 HP P15 engine with 1 carb got 16MPG, and my 56 P28 engine with 2 carbs and about 140 HP gets closer to 19 MPG??? Maybe younger horses eat less.......

Shouldn't be any mechanical or fitment issue. Only difference might be that the later the engine, the higher compression ratio and incidently the HP as well. Check the Specs page on the Carnut site. For example, the 1950 Dodge 230 has a CR of 7 to 1 and puts out 103 HP In 59 the CR was 8 to 1 and the HP went to 135. Plymouth in 1954 (first year of the 230) the CR was 7.25 to 1 HP was 110, by 59 the CR was 8.0 to 1 and the HP was 132. Wonder where the Dodge got 3 more HP in 59?????

For the price of a new one, I'd also throw in a new condensor. They can fail and cause all sorts of gremlin like problems. The govenor question is intersting, can you post some pics of your engine? Had an intermittant proble with mine a couple of springs ago. There was a piece of debris in the fuel pump. I have a single chamber pump with no glass bowl. The problem sounded a little like yours, the car woud idle al day, rev with no problem with no load in neutral and drive with out problem till about 45 mph. Drove me nuts, finally I dissasembled the pump and found a piece of debris in the hollow bolt that holds the bottom of the pump on. The bolt as well as holding the bottom pf the pump on also functions to allow fuel to pass through it. there was a piece of debris inside the hollow body of the bolt that was acting like a flapper valve. Under low volume situations it would stay open and allow fuel to pass. As flow increased, it would close with the current, limiting passage causing surging at anything over 45. I also found some rust blocking the internal screen in the fuel pump lower chamber. Even though all the components are new, I would check them again. I had a slant 6 years ago with a partially cloged fule filter that would do the same thing, as long as you wanted to go 50 it would go all day, ask for 55, buck bang stutter, let off the gas slow down and it would runn nice and smooth. One other thing, make sure your spark plug wires are fully seated in the dist cap. You really gotta wanta push them down in. Did you do the fuel flow test I sugested on the other forum???

MAterial from the close out bin at the Fabric Store's upholstery section. $3.99 a yard.

My vote is you give Charlie a lookup, he has been on the board for a good long time, check his website. Charlie is good people in my book.