greg g

57 inches tread width, which is center of tire to center of tire. The manual shows 40 17/32 measured at hole center of the front body mounts, and 34 inches center hole to center hole at the frame horns where the bumper brackets mount.

Ho Ho Ho!!! new tie down chains and all. Some guys have all the luck.

Sorry I confused you with the shadetree shorthand. And yes you can run the engine with the distributor loose. Just not too loose. Roadrunner's explaination was right on. loosen the hold down screw till you can turn the dist against some slight resistance, and leave it loose as you adjust it. You can move it while the car is idling, but you need to put the road load on it to affect the proper setting. By road load I mean, briskly accelerating or climbing a moderate hill under wide open throttle. Then yo listen for the ping, spark knock, and repeat as necessary to induce the knock with advance and then get rid of it with small amount of retard till it goes away. Kinda makes you wish that the manufacturers had never taken the spark control levers off the steering wheel hub........

Fluid drive is not the issue highway driving crusising speed wise as is the final drive ratio. The fluid drive is basically a 1 to 1 fluid torque transfer media. Most of these old MOPARS have rearends with high nimerical ratios. My 46 Plymouth has a 4.1 to 1, some were equipped with 3.9 to 1's and a few were blessed with a 3.7 something to 1 deal. I dirive my car at an indicated 62 to 65 on the highway, and compared to a modern vehicle, The engine does sound very busy at that speed. Most of the time I will dirve state or local highways rather thant he interstates when those are available. Remember the interstate highway system was just a gleam in Eisenhower's eye when our car were built, and the average speed on a trip was probably 45 to 50 MPH. So the gearing reflected this type and speed of driving. You just didn't jump on the superslab and drive 70 MPH for 4 hours. So if the fluid drive is in good condition is should not be the limiting factor.

Several things to look at. Make sure that your choke is fully opened at normal operating positon. Make sure you float level is set correctly, does the oil smell like it has gas in it??? What spark plugs are you running? Make sure your spark plug wires are fully seated in the distribuor cap. Push them in real good. Is your vacuum advance working correctly?? Have you done a compression test. What are you running for an air cleaner? Depending on how and where your are driving, you should be getting a bit better gas milage. Questions every now and again on this board usually have a consensus of 15 to 19 with overdirve equiped cars getting in the low to mid 20's. 11 seems low. Our old flatheads were blessed with hardened valve seats and running lead replacement adiditves is not necessary. Where is your timing set?? Do a road timing session with your car and see if it makes a difference. To do this, loosen the distributor hold down so you can turn the dizzy but it still has some resistance to turning. Crank in a little advance (counter clockwise) and drive the car, accelerating smartly or climbing hills with wide open throttle. Continue to advance the disributor till you hear the engine begine to ping or knock. Then back the dizzy off a couple of degrees till the knock disappears and lock it down. If you encounter hard starting with a hot engine back it off a little more. Run it this way and chack your plugs.

Sorry to hear the format has Richie befuddled, if you see him again, tell him he is missed and that I for one would encourage him to give it another try.

Interested in any of the reloading supplies????

Check the member list and que up Dave Maxwell's home page. Dave did the whole enchilada on his p15 more door including the rotiserrie deal if memory serves. As far as worth it goes, you will probably never get out what you put in if you are looking for resale, cause it ain't a chebbie or a furd, but if your are doing for the sentimental value and for the love of the old car, then go for it. When my car was in the paint shop, they also had a 40 Chrysler Royal 2 dr sedan in for a complete resto. Guy had about 25K into it before the paint went on. When I asked about the deal he said it was his grand father's got passed down to his father and he was apparently concieved in the back seat, end of value question.........

I will have some reloading stuff for sale shortly. will need to go through and inventory the stuff, but I believe it is for .222 and 16 gauge shotgun. Lots of primers and powder also if memory serves. Where are you located Johnny S.

Correct!!! Too easy????

Might try Vintage Power Wagon site. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/

Those that make it hope not to use it. Those who need it can not buy it. Those that buy it do not want it. Those that use it can not see it. Those that see it likely don't want one. What is it.

I would re verify the timing siuation, and make sure it is correct. I chased the same situation for about a half day. I had the spark plug wires off by one tower in the dizzy cap. When trying to start I would get one pop about every 4th revolution but nothing. I had done the static timing with only the wire for number one spark plug, and had it right according tot he book. when I put the rest of the wires on, and back through the loom, I missed clockwise by one. Right church wrong pew, no start. Sleep on it check it out and assure it is correct. You might want to do the static timing drill again just to assure your diz isn't 180 degrees out and or retrace your plug leads to assure they are following the correct firing order sequence. It can get frustrating to get so close and not have things work out. But if you have fuel and spark, its usually just a matter of getting together at the right time. Good luck.

It's difficult to carve while driving. Besides the shavings may interfear witht he gas pedal.

Very NIce thanks for the pics.

Nice set of wheels, looks like a fun litle buggy. Welcome.

Stainless or chrome or chromed pot metal????

You are correct on the shotgun, I had a brain fahrt when typing the model number.

I prefer the same mixture of Bourbon and peppermint schnapps. The ah specific gravity so to speak of the schanpps is a bit higher than creme de menth, if you get my meaning.

The heat riser usually fails in the closed position (this is the position which closes the exhaust manifold and directs heat to the intake manifold chamber. The bimatalic spring acts to open the flap against the counter weight as the temperature rises. so if you flapper is stuck it is usually stuck in the position which is beneficial to cold running, as the weight pulls it there when the spring cools. So as cars sit and quietly rust, the rust will hold the damper in the cold position in 99 % of the cases. If the flap is free, turn it counter clockwise, and clamp a vise grip on it so the vise grip are hanging vertically from the rod or weight, This will be the correct position for cold starting and warm up. thenif you want after the wrm up you can grab the hot vise grip, turn it clockwise to the other stop and hang it from a wire or something to keep the flap opened for warmed up operation

Depending on where the dent is, you may be able to do a couple of things to mitigate the vibration. (which may or may not be caused by the dent) First thing to do is mark the shaft at both ends in reference to the flanges. Then swap the shaft end for end. If you have a ball and trunion u joint on both ends some of the vibration may be coming from either or both of them. Flipping the shaft forces them to work in a different spot in the trunion. Sometimes the trunion will get worn in the areas where the balls rest most consistantly, and glipping it will alter that relationship. You put the reference marks on so the shaft will go back on is the same rotational position fromwhichit was removed. If this doesn't work, try then rotating one end 180 degrees in relation to its flange. Probably most effective at the tranny end. Just drop the retaining bolts, turn the shaft 1/2 turn and reconnect. This should put the reference mark 180 degress off on that end. If that doesn't work, then do the same to the differential end. Of course this will require a road test between ieach step, but it may lead to a solution to your at speed vibration. Some one also suggested you can use a strobe light, like a timing light, flash it on the drive shaft with the car runing and the rear wheels off the ground probablyin second gear. The strobe will showuo if it is spinning truely or wobbling from the dent. You can also use hose clamps around the shaft to attempt to balance the shaft. The mass of the tightening screw works like a tire weight to damp rotational imbalance. try all these before looking for a driveshaft shop. The drive shaft shop wopuld most likely be foundin your Yellowpages under drive shafts or U joints. And is probably located in that seedy industrial side of town where they fix commercial equipment and trucks.

Where and when it was built, what the options were, what the paint and trim codes are, what dealer it was shipped to.

So how come Fiats (Fix it again Tony) are bad in Italy, worse in Russia (Lada) and simply pathetic in the former Yugoslavia (Yugo)

Renault any and all before 1999 DAF Datsun F 10 Any Deawoo (including the late lemanted Pontic Le Mans 2nd generation)

Graham Hollywood, Austin Healey 3000, Studebaker R series half ton, Porsche 356 Cabriolet, 66 Mustang GT 2+2 HiPo, and for getting groceries a Subaru Imprezza WRX Sti.