greg g

Noticed 12 guests.....Lots of innocent bystanders. Why not sign in and say hi!!!!!

The Studebaker Truck Forum. Somebody linked your temp gauge repair procedure before I got a chance to. http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885/message/1169770394/temp+gauge+rebuild

So I will tell you the story of mine. In 1970, I graduated from college and took a job at Penn State College, in State College, Pa. One of the women who worked for me drove a 48 P 15 4 door back and forth to work each day bringing 3 other women with her. One day we happened to be leaving work at the same time, and I mentioned to her that I had admired her car. She said if I liked her's than I might like her Dad's also. I asked what he had, she replied "a coupe version of mine. He has cataracts and can't drive anymore, and no one else drives it cause its only a 2 seater. So I made arangements to visit, talk to her dad and see whet was up. I was suprised to find a running, registered car sitting in the garage. He started it up, and backed it out of the garage, and it sat there idling quietly, with no smoke or odd noises. Asked if I'd like to drive it and off we went. Brakes were a little iffy but all else worked as designed. I asked how long he had had it, and he said he bought it new in December of 1946, and registered it and picked it up after the New Year in 47. He had just returned from the Army, and had gotten a job as an Agricultural Equipment Sales Rep. He represented Massey Harris, Case and Allis Chamlers. He used the car in his travels around central Pa. from 47 till 58 when he got a car from one of he companies. He kept the P15 liscenced as he wasn't supposed to use the company car for non work purposes. So it got relatively little use from 58 till when I bought it, I believe it showed 60,000 miles. I fixed the brakes, put some new exhaust stuff on it as it wouldn't pass PA inspection, as it was a bit breezy. At the time they tested the exhaust by plugging the tail pipe with a shop rag wit the engine running, and listen for leaks. If a leak is evident the system needed to be replaced. Polished up the fenders, put on a couple of used tires, and drove it for till 79. Got interested in other things at the time, and put it in storage in a friends barn till 5 years ago. The barn started to fall in so I rescued it and started tinkering.

I believe the trannies exterior dimensions are the same. I do not believe that the driveshaft needs to be changed. (I have been known to be wrong before but I believe this is correct)

Tom, everything I have read (and it ain't that much) say that US built plymouths were exported as Desotos and Dodges went as Kingsways. Be interested in seeing other resources on this info.

wonder if it came from central or south american production???? Venezuala had a large Chrysler Corp plant. Somewhere I had a site marked with 40's and 50's Chryco stuff made in the southern hemisphere.

VW Audi have a plastic thing looks like a carrier for 2 dozen pingpong balls. Usually attached to the underside of the hood or the firewall with zip tie type fasteners. Should be tube in and tube out with check valve included.

The distributors will interchange. The only eception to physical fit is the 25 inch engines have a longer drive tang. There may be differences in advance curves, typically the later ones have more and quicker advance, likely to take advantage of later model's higher compression. I believe I am running a dist out of a 54 Dodge truck in my 56 Plymouth engine. Make sure you apply the correct cap. I have posted pics before of the difference between the early ones and later. The later dists usually have a taller body and take a shorter cap. Putting a tall cap on a tall bodied dist will prevent the lugs in the cap from matching up with the rotor hence no spark. I believe this is 46 Plymouth, 52 Dodge, 56Plymouth Note the difference in body casting height between the 46 and the others, not sure when they changed. the curves differ as shown in the manual: IAT 4003 1degree at 440 rpm 5 degrees at 800 9 degrees at 1425 IAP 4101 370 600 1130 vacuum is 9 degrees at 14 inches 9.5 16

Whippets were the low priced Willys Overland compatriot to the Willys Knight and others. The search came up with link to the grounding of the City of Bangor in the Great Lakes (transiting Detroit for Duluth) with a load of Chrysler Cars. http://www.ship-wreck.com/shipwreck/keweenaw/bangor.html Make sure you click the more infor button at the bottom of the article for how the cars were removed from the ship.

10 si which was used on General Motors vehicles from the 1970’s through the early 1980’s. From the Yesterday's Tractors web site.

Shel, probably most common on the late 80's early 90's entry level cars. Cavaliers, Sunbirds, Chevettes, their Pontiac bretheren, Olds Achievas, and their Buick wanna be's, and light duty trucks and vans with I 6 or V6 engines. Just open the hood on any GM car or truck and count the wires, If you get to two move on. Look at S 10's and their GMC equivelent.

Being terminally frugal, I have used head gaskets over a few times on various vehicles and or implements. Never had a problem with one that was good when removed. Please do not be confused by terminology. A copper gasket is just that, a piece of copper cut/ shaped into a gasket. Most modern gaskets are all composit, that is a lamination of some stuff sandwiched between metal one piece of which or both of which may be copper or a copper colored material. I beleive the all copper stuff was primarily used in marine applications and will take several compression cycles (re uses) before being suspect.

Going through some papers and found the hand written reciept for the machine work I had done on my engine 2 years ago. Thought some of you guys could use it as a guide if you are in the machining process. Engine was delivered dissasembled with all parts and hardware labled or in labled baggies. Cook and clean block~ 66.00 R & R cam and bearings ~ 38.00 R & R soft plugs~18.00 Check Con Rods and install new bearings (std) 66.00 Align bore crank check crank install new bearings (std) 48.00 Bore and hone Cylinders (+.030) 96.00 valve work, check clean valves, check springs and retainers, reinstall valves, install new guides and seals,~88.00 deck block~45.00 magnaflux bead blast & mill head (.030) ~ 45.00 resurface fly wheel and flip ring gear~ 35.00 assemble to short block with new gaskets and main seals, timing chain, 3 hours at 60.00 180.00 bucks so if my math is correct $725.00 plus the cost of cam bearing, rod and main bearings and new pistons and rings, and the engine rebuild gasket set.

A little carribean auto cross action. erhaps a bit to much front brake bias but other than that the cars seems well sorted. http://www.extremesportclips.com/viewvideo.php?vid=157&sec=mr

Door sill plates, threshold mats, whatever they are called a company called Hunley Acuff in Georgia reproduced them or will redo the rubber on yours if the metal is still in good condition. The address is in the links section of the old forum host page telephone is 706-866-4875 (Georgia, USA)

The bigger / heavier the roatating mass, the slower the engine gains RPM. Back in the day one of the hop up procedures was to turn the flywheel to remove material to lighten it to help the engien speed up quicker. The 218 stock flywheel and clutch will be sufficient for your needs even with a refreshed and warmed over engine. If you are concerned about the condition of the flywheel, or ring gear, take it to a machine shop and have it checked, and trued, and if needed they can flip the ring gear to get the unused portion of the teeth to bear against the stater. I had that done to mine and the whole process was 25 or 30 bucks.

Well it did flip toward the centerof gravity.........

Yea but its grilled Ahi tuna on hand formed artisian bread, over jullienned Belgium endive, topped with roasted plum tomatoes garnished with garlic and ginger aoli, assembled table side by an indentured chef's apprentice, on an imported antique tea trolley.

Well if ya got more money than brains, I guess going to BJ is like any other high visability event that those folks go to. If you think about it you could go to Vegas, see a couple of high priced shows, spend some time in the casino, drop 150K and not have anything to show for it, or you can go to the auction, rub shoulders with other high rollers, and celebritues, make a few bids, maybe get your mug on TV, drop 150K and have something to drive home and play with for a while, if you don't like it you can sell it get most of your money back, and still have had the experience.

Well the wind blew right for us, we got about 2 inches, a village north of us got 18 to 20 and its still coming.

yep the 15 refers to the diameter of the hole in the tire, this corresponds to the diameter of the part of the wheel where the tire mounts, not the outside diameter of the wheel rim.

Could be defined that way but also any power source other than the dead cars battery could also be the helper.

Or bypass the 6v battery completely on the car to be jumped. connect the positive cable jumper to a good ground on the dead cars engine block, and the negative cable to the starter side of the solenoid (meaning the wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter.) That way the 6 v battery only needs to provide enough juice to energize the solenoid, and the 12V will crank the starter. The 12v will bypass the 6 v battery. and even if you hook it up with reversed polarity the starter will turn in the correct direction and the you won't foul up either battery aor charging system. If you really want to be safe, disconnect the starter cable from the solenoid, clamp the jumper to the starter cable, and energize the starter by manupulating the ground cable. remember to turn the ignition on so that the coil will get powered from the 6V. Of course in all these situations all the accesories shoud be shut off on both vehicles.

Here is a chart you might find helpful. Looks like MOPAR A bodies are real close, and some fords. Advantage of these are you can retain your stock wheel bolt pattern with the ford and wit some A bodies as thes cam e in 2 sizes, the V 8 equipped cars had the same bolt patten as the rest of the line, the 6's had a smaller diameter. Remember you will need to modify your drive shaft for the newer style u joints. http://carnut.com/specs/rear.html

John, Looks like thing sre coming together well in spite of some small setbacks. You might consider a set of trim rings for your wheels also. These just snap in I got these at a show for about 20.00 a piece, they are available on the net from various wheel, trim sources, here is one with free shipping. http://www.hubcapzone.com/trimrings.htm