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They are a bit wide for the 4.5 inch wide rim width but they should fit.

A couple years ago Joel Torres who used to frequent this board posted some pics of a late 30' to early40's cutom bodied Desoto he noticed in his neighbor hood. If memory serves corectly the roofline of that car was very similar to the Mystery T&C Dodge. I can not remember the body maker, but I did a search and found several photos of that car or one like it. The wood working looks like some one had access to manufacturing jigs and joinery tools. looks to "factory" to be a shade tree conversion. Maybe a wooden boat builder or repairer did the work.

Thanks for the info you sent. I posted a reply.

Over Number 6 cylinder in the head is a square pipe plug. Removing this plug gives direst access to the top of the piston. Insert a lenght (about 8 inches) of stiff wire into the hole after removing the plug. then rotate the engine 1 revolution (pull the plugs t make it easier) and mark the travel on the wire. this will give you the stroke measurment. since the bores were basically the same on the 251/265, the stroke measurment will then allow you to determin the displacement.

You can be a way spot on the way to Tulsa.....

You can also look here. http://www.cogeneration.net/Manure_To_Energy.htm Gotta a septic tank???? The other thing to look at is natural gas. There are lots of areas where wells are being drilled for Natural Gas. This is collected and used to power a generator.

I have recently come into posession of some rifles and a shotgun. I am trying to seel them but don't have any idea of thier value. So if anybody know or can recommend a site or publication to help, I would appreciate it. If any one is interested, an any or all of them I would entertain an email or PM. They are a 1927 vintage Winchester Model 94 chambered for 30 30. Condition fair to good. Some bluing missing, some wear marks on the metal, no gouges or deep scratches, some scrapes and scratches on the stock. No rust, lever action works correctly. a 1960/61 Remington model 722 bolt action chambered for .222. with 10x Weaver scope. Condition very good, with minimal field wear. excelent optics, Scope features distance adjustable cross hairs. nice light and accurate varmint rifle. Reloading equipment and supplies also available. a Remington model 760 Wingmaster 16 ga. pump shot gun. Ribbed barrel in water foul length. Condition good. Currently covered in Camoflage tape.

When my wife and I redid ours, we found that there isa metal cripmping strip which establishes that seam and its positon. Probably not 100 % necessary to the process but it was located by metal teeth punched through the backing board and bent over to retain it. Six inches is about right without actualling measuring. The fabric goes into some slots, then the slots are bent over to retain the pieces. Then the strip was mounted to the backer board, and then stretched to the top and bottom and fastened. I used staples at the top, makinsure they are put in where they are hidden by the garnish, and hot glue to fasten the vinyl to the back of the backer.

You want to make sure it is a 230 engine, as they have the 8 hole crankshaft flange for the fluid drive. The engines are a bolt for bolt swap, and your car's bellhousing and drive train will bolt up tot he back of the truck motor if it is an 8 bolt crank. Ask the seler for the engine number. It should start with a T if it is a truck engine. Engine swaps were so common in these cars and trucks that it is not uncommon to find car engines in trucks and truck engines in cars. Dodge and Plymouth used the same 23 1/2 inch block in the US. Canadian cars and trucks all had 25 inch long engines. The engine number is on a flat cast into the block just above the generator and just below the head. Post this number here and some one will be able to tell if it is a 230 with the correct crank. The extra holes are necessary to secure the extra weight of the fluid drive components.

Good luck!!! Don't for get your NY network shivering in the lake effect, with our cars under covers in the garage. I would guess you'll fit right in with them shakey side fellas.

Rodney, you have now thrown another variable in the mix. A carb transplanted from a later engine may be jetted differently than your original frankencarb. Remember your 41 has a 201 cube engine the later motors are 218 or 230 cubes. bigger displacement pulls more air and the jets sizes in the later carbs may be different. I do not have any specific knowledge on the sizes of the jets but a later model carb on the smaller engine may be over fueling the engine. this would be especially true at idle and low rpm operation, and might explain your feeling of being peppier than the other carb. If anybody has a carter book they might be able to see if the jets are different through the years for 201, 218, and 230's.

Hey you guys, yer just used to starting modern fule injected cars which keep residual pressure in the fule rail so the injecters fire right off. Didja ever read the owners manual for cold starting your Plymouth or Dodge?? Try this, pump the gas pedal once or twice, while it is on the floor set the choke, fully. Hold the pedal at 1/3 to 1/2 half travel, and then hit the starter. Keep in mind that your carburetor has what amounts to an open vent to the atmosphere, and modern gas is more volitile (volitility is the ease at which a fluid evaporates) than the gas when these cars were new. So if your car sits a few days or a couple weeks, much of the gas that may have been in the float bowl may be gone, but giving the accelerator pedal a pump or two should spray some gas in through the accelerator pump circuit. Flooring the pedal while pulling out the choke also sets the high idle cam which helps the engine deal with the choke enriched fuel mixture. When the engine starts push in the choke a bit to establish a smooth high speed idle. For those of you with automatic chokes, flooring the pedal also sets the choke to the closed position and the high idle cam to the high speed setting. As the engine warms, the linkage should pull the choke to open as the engine warms. And lower temps and moisture in the air will compromise and highlight problems in the ignition side of the equation. As noted in another post, for the cost of a new set of plugs....change them. And make sure the rest of the systemis up to spec.

My guess would be somewhere between 15 and 17. Those detent springs of the thingie that holds the shift lever in the housing on top of the tranny. So instead of going snick snick, it goes squish, squish........

How slow are you. http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/humanbody/sleep/sheep/reaction_version5.swf

Looks like a Dickens of a good job John. Please post the pics when they are finished. By the way did a package arrive there yet???? G

Let's talk carburetors. A carburetor is an analoge mixing device. Our carburetors Carters and Solexes are only adjustable in the idle mode. the idle mixture adjustment screw is an air bleed orifice and controls the air entering the idle circuit, which if I am not mistaken has a fixed size jet. The air passing through the circuit pulls fuel trhought he jet and atomizes it. the more air the leaner the idle mixture, the less air the richer the circuit. Thats it. The main circuit, and the power circuit are also fixed jets, so they can only provide whatever fuel the air flow will pull unless they are blocked which would cause a lean condition. An improperly set float or a float needle and seat that don't shut off fuel can cause overfilling of the float bowl and this can lead to washing of extra fuel through the carb. this will richen things up in a hurry and dripping fuel coming out the throttle plate pivot holes is likely. Some carbs are more adjustable than ours, Holleys, webbers, SU's, and similarly designed Solex side drafts do have adjustable jets that can be mis adjusted or perhaps vibration affected. Ours simply can't go rich unless the choke buttefly isn't opening or sombody changed the jets. Restricted airflow may have some effect, but less air usually equals less fuel bcause of the venturi principal. So if your choke is operating correctly, your air filter is not clogged, and your float is set correctly, and the needle and seat are working properly, the situation proves the old saw the most carburetor problems are electrical.So look for a weak spark, from. bad coil, bad wires, old spark plugs, wires not seated correctly in the dizzy cap, incorrect timing, etc. My 2 cents about carburetors at least Carter 1bbls. These carbs are not much more complicated than the one on your Briggs and stratton mower motor, when was the last time you had a rich running condition on that?????

Well I am partial to dark purple (Cordovan) and I also lke Marty Bose's combination.

Well here is the deal, back in the day, when these cars were new and even when they were old and long of tooth, people did drive these cars coast to coast. Now driving down the Jersey Turnpike at 75 in a stock 60 year old car is probably folly on a couple of fronts. Both wear and tear on the long stroke engine, and hurtling along on skinny tires arrested by drum brakes. This said, I have been driving my 3 speed 4.11 to 1 equiped Bizzy Coupe for 5 years now. I have been from Syracuse to Rhinebeck NY, a round trip of 370+ miles in one day, a trip to Tunckhannock Pa. about 130 miles 0r so each way, and a trip to Killington Vt. about 155 miles each way plus three days af running around while there. On these trips I took the old state routes, Jumping on and off the Interstates as necessary. On the interstates, and on the old state routes I drive between 50 and 68 indicated. Yes the engine sounds busy compared to a modern car loafing along in Od 5th gear with the torque converter locked up probably turning 2200 RPM at 70mph. Get used to it. Drive the state routes, slow down smell the roses. If ya gotta do some turnpike driving, jump on go 65 and get off as soon as practical. Were it me, I would swap the rear end change the drive shaft, and be done with it. Yes the OD's are neat and you can shift them like a five speed, but with the amount of miles you're gonna drive, the gas saved and the wear and tear saved by either change is likely minimal. If the car is your only transportation, then the change may be worthwhile. But it yer ride do whatcha wanna do and enjoy.......

The numbers refer to the difference in input turns to output turns of the rear end. If your original is for argument's sake 3.89 to one, it simply means that the drive shaft must trun 3.89 times to equal one revolution of the axle. So the lower the number, the fewer engine revs (assuming a 1 to 1 high gear) are necessary to turn the the axle one revolution, hence a more relaxed engine rpm at cruising speed. The trade off is that it puts more strain on the engine when starting off from a stop. Remember when our cars were built, the interstate higway system was still a dream and most surface highways were posted for 50 to 55 mph. With starts and stops and going through towns and villages the average speed on a trip was probably in the 45 MPH range, so quick pick up was favored over relaxed highspeed cruising. With a flathead of around 100 HP and the stock tranny, I wouldn't go numerically lower than 3.23 to 1 and if you need to deal with starts and stops on hills, 3.55 is likely preferable. Either of those would likely give you about 2800 to 3000 engine Rpms at 65 to 70 MPH. this you can vary some by adjusting the diameter of your tires ie taller is the same as a lower numerical axle ratio.

Hi! and Welcome to both of you and your corral. Pictures Please!!!!! The engine I believe is 30 inches long if I remember what I read somewhere. You'll no doubt need to make some accomodations for the extra length. Probably toward the front. How much room you got in front of the radiator??? Here's a short blurb from All Par; Larger trucks used another family of in-line flathead six cylinder engines. There was a 331 cubic inch and a mammoth 413 cubic inch lugger was available in the T series and up. There may have been another engine in the 370 CID range, but I am not sure about that. The 331 was highly regarded in trucking circles as a durable, hard working engine. The 413 was equipped with two single barrel carburetors and had a very large appetite for gasoline. It was noted for twisting the drive sprocket off the end of the camshaft.

And here is the basic one.

What was the recommended torque???? Good info should be here.

Make sure you put the puppy in the engine right way to. The pellet side goes toward the engine block. By that I mean the business side with the spring and the mystery goo that makes it work needs to be on the engine side. Remember the temp rating is the point at which the stat will begin to open. The closed setting keeps the coolant from traveling throught he radiator till that temp is reached. Essentially this causes a closed loop for the coolant to be pumped through the engine until it opens and lets it travel throught he radiator. I have a 160 in mine but don't drive it from November till March. But I might venture a guess that with the 160 stat, driving around in the winter at sub freezing air temp, with the heater on, the stat might not even open, and that the heater core alone might be all that was necessary to cool the engine, or at least the stat would only just begin to open and allow just a bit to pass through the radiator. I read some where that the heater core on a modern set up will take care of nearly 40% of todays engines cooling at 20F air temp. There is probably more coolant on our blocks and heaters then there is in a new cars total system. So again the temp on the stat is where it will open, and not an indication of what temp your vehicle will run at. Just for grins after you get it sorted out, buy a cheap thermometer and stick it in the radiator after everything is up to normal running temp and see what you get. This will check your gauge but there can be a 5 to 10 degree difference or so, as the gauge is in the place where the coolant will be the warmest and the top of the radiator will be a little bit cooler.

I couldn't figure it out either so I added some motorcycle cast off signal light fixtures to the back end and now have two tail lamps, and three brake lamps, and two seperate signals. I found this to be the easiest to wire. and find the seperate signals to be more effective in communicating my needs to the cell phone using, drinking coffee while tailgaiting, imbecile drivers that inhabit today's highways.

Use Tim's Recipe and roll it on with a short nap mini roller. Two to four coats withs some sanding with 800 in between will spiff them up nicely. If you want a semi gloss finish some flatener can be added or top with semi gloss clear that can be had in rattle cans from auto body supply sources.