Roadkingcoupe

This past weekend I had to replace the primer bulb in a gas powered string trimmer. The Dealer said they have to be replaced every two or three years now that ethanol is 10% of our local gas. He also mentioned that he had heard of an additive that neutralized the corrosive nature of the ethanol. Anyone else know what that additive might be? Seems like the additive would be the route to go rather then continously replacing the rubber parts throughout the entire vehicle.

1940 Canadian Dodge D14 steering tube and worm #857479 steering gear shaft and roller tube #676930 both gears should be inspected and/or replaced at the same time

Why not contact the vendor directly? He sells exclusively old Mopar parts and has been known to be a good person to deal with.

1940 heralded the introduction of the round sealed beam headlight bulbs, bringing the shaped headlamps to a short and abrupt end. 1939 and prior cars were often retrofitted with sealed beam headlamps through after market kits that were available from the parts stores. 1939 was the last year that offered the bayonette style bulb that were held in place by an unusual spring loaded clip with three prongs that protruded through the "silvered" reflectors.

Since I have never seen one of those before I am curious? What scale is it? What materials? Metal, plastic, rubber or pressed paper? Manufacturer? Thanks in advance for any info.

A professional steering wheel restoration shop I am aware of uses "dental epoxy" and swear by it as the ideal filler material for steering wheels.

Timely idea, 200 years after the war of 1812!

Every once in a while I am reminded by the fact that although centered around cars this hobby is about....people. That regardless of where you live or which side of the road you drive on this community here on the P15-D24 site is centered around "unique" people.....their personalities, integrity and "opinions". That is our strength. Which car you own, what year or stock vs. hot rod matters little and the combined wisdom of this forum trumps any one person. The forum is a microcosm, a reminder that we are "caretakers" of rolling sculptures of automobile history. That a "low" cost car built 65 - 70 years ago can still do what it was supposed to and flies in the face of a world full of disposable commodities. I know that as long as there is a caretaker for these cars they will live another 70 years and more. So I would like to thank Jim for sharing the video that is as much about the "personality" of ownership as it is about any single vehicle. And please thank Mr. Pandya for giving the video his expertise and heart.

OEM original equipment as supplied by the Chrysler Corporation on your Desoto S11.

So I finally had a chance to pull the panel truck out of its winter hibernation. Went for a drive and took this picture. Great to be behind the wheel again! Please feel free to post pictures of your rides!

Correct! It was pressed on and not meant to be removed. The only one I have seen removed was so mangled that it was rendered useless. There appears to be two different color combo's for the dashboard. A mottled brown that is consistant over the whole dash & a two tone version with a lighter color glove box door. Possibly the difference between a P11 & P12 Trims The two dealer brochures posted earlier in this thread shows the two styles. Note the plastic ornament on the window garnish moulding on the P12 interior pic.

"Powermatic Shifting - a delightful new car operation to enjoy. Shifting is made vastly easier, requires a minimum of effort. And with the new transmission, actual elimination of certain shifting motions in normal driving. It's a revelation! Try it! Powermatic's the "ONE" for '41!" Interested in the actual benefit of the vacuum assist. Besides the upgraded "chrome" shift knob (modelled after the tail of an airplane), the vacuum chamber and rather complicated linkage....what real benefit is afforded by the option. I realize that it was designed to allow the operator to shift with very little effort. But the upper vehicles already had Fluid Drive and the power shift option wasnt offered for very long. Shifting without it takes very little effort, so how necessary was this option?

There are at least two styles of 1941 Plymouth Parking light lens' Yours are rare....but I have seen a number of them. In addition there are TWO kinds of bezels (headlamp doors) as well. Most common - solid cast one piece pot metal Less common - two piece; front pressed steel over a seperate steel frame. Actually the parking light lens you are looking for does show up on eBay often but it is almost always mislabelled as a 1941 Chrysler or 1940 Plymouth or ???????

Open cars (convertibles) had painted dashboards Panel Delivery trucks had painted dashboards (photo below) Closed cars had woodgrained dashboards AND window garnish moldings (brochure pics) "Poor man's wood".........yes I can hear the laughter:) There are actually two different colors used and hopefully the pictures are clear.

Happy to share the info with the forum The photographs are of a 1939 Plymouth Glove box door for optional clock. In the Dealer Option Book page the illustrations are of: 1940 Plymouth on the left (There are two different 1940 Plymouth doors mentioned and only one shown) 1940 Dodge on the right. By clicking on the photo and then enlarging (Ctrl & +) you can see the detailed info. Never seen a 1940 Glove box door (for Clock) for sale. I do have the 1939 door and a 1940 Clock I was going to install in my car.

to rich for my blood but he's got the right stuff check out the rest of his inventory! http://www.ebay.com/sch/bettin/m.html?hash=item1e6c925138&item=130670547256&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&_trksid=p4340.l2562

Hey AndyDodge.....count me in on the "bulk" buy! It is amazing to think that there was a time when all these "goodies" were sitting on a shelf and available just for the asking (plus $$'s). Since that isnt the case anymore eBay (love it or hate it) is the closest thing to a Mopar parts superstore. Funny how many old school Moparites bought their cars for $50 - $350......now you couldnt find a clock for a 1941 Plymouth for much less.

Different glove box door for the clock option. Clocks are rare.............doors even more so. Clock mounted Glove Box Door part #'s 1940 Plymouth P9 - 830650 msrp list price $2.25 dealer cost $1.45 P10 - 830651 msrp list price $2.25 dealer cost $1.45 1940 Dodge D14 - 830652 msrp list price $2.25 dealer cost $1.45 D17 - 830652 msrp list price $2.25 dealer cost $1.45 Optional Clocks part #'s 1940 Plymouth part # 854715 msrp list price $9.75 dealer cost $5.85 1940 Dodge part # 872402 msrp list price $9.75 dealer cost $5.85 1939 Plymouth Glovebox door for optional clock inside photo Please note the recess for the clock front and the two raised areas for installing fasteners. If you need more pictures (including clock) just ask.

Looks alot like AndyB's stock. Correct me if I am wrong but the pictures are identical to new owners listings. eBay store: Vintage Mopar Direct http://stores.ebay.com/VINTAGE-MOPAR-DIRECT/Suspension-Axle-/_i.html?_fsub=2851937017 same seller, eBay name "mopardirectchris" http://www.ebay.com/csc/mopardirectchris/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=13&_rdc=1

"So now I am hoping to convince my wife to build an addition to the garage, begin a total restoration and dream about someday driving this beauty." maybe he told his wife how much the restoration was going to cost!

There is no question that patience and determination and $$$$$'s can bring most anything back (excluding the 1957 Tulsa Plymouth ) There is a balance between the enjoyment of resto, pride of doing it yourself and actually driving your vintage vehicle. If you love to tinker and have copious amounts of time and money......go right ahead. However, for those who work hard for the moola and "enjoy" driving and tinkering, a good original car will give the maximum enjoyment. There are always things to fix and life is short so why not get into a vehicle that is roadworthy and ready to enjoy. I purchased a vehicle from a "gentleman" who had a good running, working and driving 1941 Plymouth. It was so clean I thought the fenders had been repainted! He started to "fiddle" with the rad. Then he started to disassemble the front end...then the whole car! When I purchased the vehicle it was completely disassembled and ALL parts had been restored replaced and/or rebuilt. All that was left to do was reassemble and new interior. He had $27,000 into a car and it was still in pieces! Completed, the car would sell for $15,000 tops! and it would have cost thousands more to complete. My point is that it is easy to get into a huge $$$$ commitment that may or may not ever be on the road. And very difficult to get out of. Not my idea of fun. I learn from other peoples mistakes (it's cheaper). So I am not belittling the "enjoyment" of a decade long restoration, just trying to underscore the balance of time, money and residual value vs. the option of purchasing a good vehicle for half the price and the benefits of ownership enjoyment of driving a complete and running DCPD. If money was no object why not go for a Town & Country Woody? At least it is now considered a classic.

An excellent illustration of the build cost vs. purchasing the best one available. Yes....good point However rather then discourage I feel it is important to illustrate the scope of the project and the costs involved. The list of expenses didnt even include the roof!

The dash plastic in good condition is worth (a minimum of $1200). Assorted hard to find parts like window cranks with plastic inserts are worth at least $250 a set of four in good condition. You might be surprised at the cost to "restore" a vehicle like the one pictured. $25-$40K later you might have a nice car? It often makes sense to purchase the best vehicle you can afford. In other words a $500 car that looks like a good deal can often cost more in time and $$$'s then purchasing a solid original car that has never been rusted out. If you have the skills and are capable of ALL the necessary work then the above may not apply to you. Like some others on the forum who are "Jack of all trades" it is possible to do the car for less. But for mere mortals that need the paid assistance of shops the bills are staggering. However many "optimistic" purchasers fail to complete a "bargain" when the actual cost of restoration is factored in. $10 - $12K paint job (may not include all body work) $4k chrome $4-6K Interior (including steering wheel resto etc.) $3-4K Motor rebuild Not including the purchase price, time spent, and $$$'s on eBay it could be an easy $30-40K minimum. The rising cost of parts and paint, chrome, interior etc. vs. the falling prices of good original cars makes the full restoration an expensive route to take. Preference towards never rusted original vehicles trumps the $500 "bargain" every time. __________________ Maple Leaf Mutant says..."Adopt a Plymouth today."

Steele sells the kits fresh pliable rubber Pad, body mounting, upper. Replaces #667726,673520 As many as 12 used per car. 1937: DeSoto closed bodies 1938-48: Most closed bodies 40-0232-48.....$ 13.00/ea. Pad, body mounting, lower. Replaces #667963 and #673519. 1937: Chrysler & DeSoto conv'ts; Dodge D5 (use 12); Plymouth (use 4) 1938-39: Dodge D5 (use 12) & Plymouth (use 4) 1940-48: As required 40-0233-48.....$ 9.90/ea. Pad, body mounting, upper. Replaces #673522. 1937: DeSoto closed bodies 1938-48: Most closed bodies 40-0231-48.....$ 8.90/ea. Pad, body mounting, lower. Replaces #673523. 1/2" I.D. X 1-3/4" O.D. X 1/2" thick. 1937: DeSoto closed bodies 1938-48: All closed bodies 40-0230-48.....$ 8.20/ea.

Just because it's old..........doesnt mean it's bad. Just because you can........doesnt mean you should. Just because one individual bad mouths P15-D24 ......doesnt mean its true.