Roadkingcoupe

not sure if this is the answer to your question? If you are trying to remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch housing, simply depress the small "button" as seen in the slot at the side of the housing and with very little effort the ignition switch will slide out of the housing. Seems like it was easy to "borrow" a car in the 30's!

When the motor is cold the manifold heat riser re-directs hot exhaust once the motor heats up the bi-metal spring will expand and the counter weight will move the "flap" inside the manifold approximately 90 degrees If the counter weight (and therefor) the flap doesn't move then it isn't working If the spring isnt working then the engine will run "rough" until the motor heats up to operating temps.

heat riser? spring? any chance it was damaged or broke?

Less then 12 hours from the original post to the part # to locating a hard to find part. The collective wisdom of the forum at work!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The steering tube varies in length from one vehicle to another BUT there are two sizes for the actual roller One measures app. 2.25 inches long and the other measures app. 2.75 inches long They differ in diameter as well. The point is that they are press fit on (so they can be swapped out) and if all else fails the tube itself can be cut and welded as well. So replacing the steering tube can be done with some options. I know someone will object to cutting and welding a steering tube but a good weld should be as strong or stronger then the actual metal stock. I have a steering tube worm gear that is short and has a fine spline post (app 2" long) that I have no idea what it fits????? The splines look almost identical to the splines that the steering wheel shares. Any thoughts????

1936 Desoto S2 steering tube assembly #629310 steering gear shaft and roller #653182

1939 Plymouth P7 "Roadking" models actually were equipped with a single wiper motor on the drivers side only The passenger side wiper was a factory option! You might notice that the speed of the wiper relates directly to the engine rpm (and the corresponding vacuum produced).

1951 1952 CHRYSLER IMPERIAL WINDSHIELD DIVIDER TRIM 1371390 - CHR71 listed as a 51 52 Chrysler IMPERIAL w/shield divider Would not assume that it fits ALL others Might be Imperial only!

is there a part number embossed on the inside of the molding?

Usually when an item is reproduced or remanufactured as a OEM replacement the quality suffers. The Buckeye reproduction running boards are actually superior to the OEM in that the metal core is thicker, therefore stronger and unlike the originals that "scalloped" over time the heavier metal used in the Buckeye running boards are sturdier then originals and dont flex or warp as the originals tended to do.

Hunley Accuff has been making good quality reproduction rubber running board covers for a while. I believe that you have to send the originals in as cores (preferably stripped of the original rubber covers). Recommended vendor. Buckeye rubber in OHIO makes a number of replacement runningboards for Chrysler product vehicles. They make a complete running board with a new heavy gauge steel core. They are the ones sold on ebay by drop shippers and can be bought directly from Buckeye for less.

Not quite that easy. You could "push" on the clip, which would set it firmer against the post You would need to "pull" back the spring to release the clip from the shaft. Not sure how you could do that with the restricted space and angle. In order to release the spring steel clip you have to slide the clip towards the "bottom of the knob" by inserting a small flat screw driver in the slot and push the clip downwards or "away" from the driver.

Caution: Rambling answer ahead. The 1939 Plymouth had "domed" speedometer glass on ALL models (P7 & P8) the flat glass is a repro made today by a guy out of California. The Windshield wipers are vacuum operated and the knob is on the top of the windshield under the interior sun visor The door lock is on the passenger side in the US so that the door was unlocked on the "curb" side.....for safety (and in some places was the "legally" correct way to enter the car). If your door lock is on the left side (passenger side) on a right hand drive car....that would make sense. ODD FACT: The1939 Plymouth P7 Roadking "base" car came with only one tail light and only one wiper! The Drivers side tail light had a small clear "bubble" on the lower tip of the teardrop shaped lens. The back of the clear bubble was painted in silver paint with a black paint on top of the silver. The logic was that the car when parked would show a "reflective "DOT" so to alarm passing cars of the parked vehicle. The passenger side of the car does NOT have the clear glass "bubble" as it would have been ineffective on that side. The passenger side should have a teardrop lens with the embossed ship but no clear bubble. Most all 1939 Plymouth's have both tail lamp lens' with the clear glass bubble. Although incorrect....it still looks cool. FLAWED DESIGN.: the tail light bucket mounts through the fender and is attached to the fender using another exterior tail light bucket (mounted on the underside of the fender). Because the spray from the wheels hits directly on the outer bucket they are usually rusted out or completely missing. Although tail light buckets come up for sale often, I have never seen a set of outer tail light buckets for sale.

The slot was present on knobs that have the clip A small flat screwdriver is slid up the slot to take the tension off of the "spring steel" clip. At that point the knob will slide off with very little effort. When an inexperienced "mechanic" removes the knob by force the spring steel clip breaks off and renders the knob useless. There are similar knobs with a metal insert and threading, they do not have the slot. How can the "spring steel clip" type be removed safely from the cable shaft without a slot to depress the clip is beyond me.

There are a number of people that know Old Chrysler vehicles. Few knew more about the parts as much as Frank Mitchell. Although there are some interesting characters in the MoPaR parts business most all of them are / were colorful! Frank Mitchell passed away on Tuesday night and I am sad to hear that another "old time" MoPaR parts guy is no longer with us. MITCHELL, Frank February 18, 1950 - August 6, 2014 Frank Arthur Roof Mitchell went to the Lord on August 6, 2014 after a brief illness. Frank was born in Jersey City, New Jersey and moved with his family to Decatur, Georgia in 1964. Frank graduated from Southwest DeKalb High School, Class of 1967 and graduated from Perdue University in 1970. Frank has had a lifelong love of Chrysler products and built and ran Mitchell Motor Parts in Grove City, Ohio and Fairmont, Georgia. He's lived in Grove City, Ohio and Kennesaw, Georgia. Most recently, he split his time between Navarre Beach, Florida and Rydal, Georgia. His most cherished role was husband, father, brother, friend, debate coach and Opa. He was preceded in death by his father, Frank Arthur Mitchell and mother, Emilie Juanita Mitchell, and sister, Linda Mitchell Tuminella. He is survived by his bride of almost 40 years, Cathy Lynn Mitchell. Also, by two daughters, Kristin Mitchell Winjum and Ashley Mitchell Stieger and son-in-law, Roddy Stieger. Frank and Cathy have three grandchildren, Keeley, Lucas and Cameron. He is also survived by two sisters, Pam Mitchell Gunter and Martha Mitchell Zoller, their families as well as many nieces and nephews. Funeral services will be held Saturday August 9, 2014 at 12 Noon in the chapel of Winkenhofer Pine Ridge Funeral Home. Interment will follow in Pine Ridge Memorial Park. The family will receive friends following the service at a reception at the Pine Ridge Events Center. In lieu on flowers, please make a donation to Children Health Care of Atlanta at www.choa.org.

If you work with the original parts books there are some dated terminology and more modern words have replaced them, Radimeter = Heat Guage Headlamp Door = Headlight bezel and so on.... Hood ornaments are in the cooling section as a left over from when the rad cap had a hood ornament attached. Actually quite interesting how the terms we use didn't exist when the books were printed......and how the original terms are not only outdated but always show up as a spelling error in spell check.

Thanks for the suggestion on mid thirties time frame, sounds about right! Anyone aware of four wheel drive trucks for that period? Looks to be a short drive shaft that might power a front wheel off a transfer case. Has traditional ball and trunnion u - joint and splined end. Any chance it is military? or large (for the time) truck?

With most of my experience in the 1930's and 1940's passenger cars I was hoping to find out the application of this short drive shaft? Looks to be truck possibly 4 X 4, military....actually I am not sure. Appreciated if anyone can ID this original MoPar part. Thanks

Ironically, plastic lenses fetch a premium on eBay. The glass lens (although they are for older model cars) do not sell any where near the price of plastic lens. 1950's 1960's and 1970's cars might be more desirable or the plastic lens might be more prone to cracks, crazing, yellowing or easier to damage. Glass although it does break, it seems to be more durable and last longer then the plastic lenses.

The sealed beam conversion kit fits over the "shaped" headlamp opening and allows the installation of round sealed beam bulbs. So......you would not have the original headlamp doors. I saw the 1939 Chrysler sedan in Las Vegas that was Johny Carson's original family car. The vehicle was equipped with the sealed beam conversion. The curator was positive that it was original equipment. We had a great "discussion" of all aspects of the car and he disappeared. He returned armed with a video of some original footage of the car when owned by his father. Sure enough the original tear drop shaped headlamps were in the video. It must have been considered quite an upgrade going to the sealed beam headlamps with a brighter and more focused headlamp beam. Follow the link to view a video of Johny Carson explaining how he obtained his fathers "original" car. In the video you can see the sealed beam conversions and in the older segments the original shaped headlamps..

From the picture in your post it appears as if you have the Bucket and Bezel (doors) and cables. However, the more finicky (read: hard to find parts) are the ones missing. They include the head lamp reflector adjusting bracket (X 2 part # 852518) , reflectors (X2 part #694055), headlamp reflector retaining clips (X 6 part # 852520) head lamp reflector adjusting slide (X 2 #852560) and a bunch more small parts too numerous to list at this time. Since 1939 was the last year before the introduction of the sealed beam headlamps. You might want to consider a sealed beam conversion kit. They were a popular aftermarket accessory that allowed the retrofit application of the sealed beam headlight bulbs on pre - 1940 vehicles. please feel free to contact me if you are interested in more info or parts. roadkingcoupe

The power shift option was simply a shifting "aid". It was advertised as; Powermatic Shifting - a delightful new car operation to enjoy. Shifting is made vastly easier, requires a minimum of effort. And with the new transmission, actual elimination of certain shifting motions in normal driving. It's a revelation! Try it! Powermatic's the "ONE" for '41!" Just disconnecting would return the car to a "regular" shifting car. Many similarily equiped cars have had the vacuum assist removed.

were the original gaskets asbestos?

external sun visor mounts.