John-T-53

Very rarely have I ever seen it get heated on here; this is the nicest group of folks I've found online (This isn't a B-body or E-body forum, lol) But when opinions flare up, I get out the popcorn.

If the top two bolts holding the differential case (a.k.a. hoghead...lol)) to the axle housing are close together, then it's probably a mopar 8 3/4"

Nice! Are those Explorer wheels? Also looks like there might be a Chrylser wagon in the background...or is that an Olds? By the way, do they pronounce it RegEEna, or RegYna? I started pronouncing the latter because it raises eyebrows due to the fact that it rhymes with a certain female part. lol

Do you have pics? The C series are fairly similar to the B's so in terms of engine placement and bench seat location would be a good example to share. The shifter placement and throw is the main interest here. I don't doubt it would easily mate to the bellhousing somehow. But it would be great to educate the members here on the details of another swap possibility if there are specifics to share. For those who have swapped in a tranny without considering the final drive ratios, I wouldn't call it stupidity necessarily, I'd call it not knowing enough / lack of experience. I don't think anybody could be forced / bullied to modify their vehicle at gunpoint. For those that have asked me about my tranny swap, the first thing I usually say is figure out the gears before anything else. Otherwise they will end up with a flubbed install like your cited projects above, and touted as examples of why no one should attempt that route, ever again. Huff huff.

Is the heater core leaking? You might just be able to take it to a local radiator shop and get it pressure tested and recored with a modern tube and fin core if needed. Would be a lot cheaper than sending it across the country to get an exact V-cell core replica. The heater core is not visible. If you don't have any good shops on your side of the Sierra, We have a good one in San Jose (San Jose radiator) where it could probably be sent to.

I don't think an A-833 swap has yet been documented in one of these Dodge trucks yet. I have not seen or heard of any examples, at least on this website. If anybody has a project in progress or completed, please speak up. Are there any A-833 bullies in the house ready to face of with the T-5 "bullies"? Haha...

Is there a VIN tag present anywhere? Or a VIN on the frame? You can get color ships on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371586960619?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/272205174282?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true There might be some original paint on your firewall (check both sides) or under the dash. Post some pics of your new panel.

A good photo especially with the Chrysler Building in the background (on the right with its top cropped out) Out of the way, Merc! GM "old look" busses too.

That's a bugger...

Far out, man...

Never heard of a 228 cu. in... is that the Canada version of the 230?

This is failure #3 at the fuel pump for me. I plan to switch to an electric fuel pump when I install headers on the motor. And good info on McMaster Carr, however the replacement pin we had to make a little bigger in dia. due to when the old pin slipped out, it enlarged the bore slightly (maybe .002") so we cut the new pin with a made to order press fit.

Well, fast forward a couple years and a few thousand miles....here we go again. Same issue with the troublesome pivot pin. Last time when I acquired a new pump, I staked the casting around the pin ends, but I guess it wasn't good 'nuff. I made it back from the BBQ ok, drove it around town for the week, then it wouldn't start the other evening. Luckily, I happened to be parked outside my friend's machine shop, so we made a new pin with a c-clip groove in one end, and the other end with a "head", so it hopefully won't come out again!

And a couple shots of the landscape and driving back to town that evening... I'd like to throw out a few shots... First, A big thanks to TIM and family for hosting this event once again. We obviously wouldn't be having such an event without y'all! Thanks for all you do! And special thanks to: BRENT: for bringing me drip rails from one of his parts trucks. He remembered that I said "sure I'll take 'em" from our conversation last year, cut them off the truck, and brought them all the way down from Oregon. What a great guy. Plus he arrived a day early to help get the place ready. And, he's huge George Strait fan, what more do I have to say? MARK: for shipping a case of Grain Belt beer out for our consumption during the weekend (I know Paul enjoyed them too, haha). And for sneaking a few of them in my truck to take home (my dad sure enjoyed a couple too). Mark also was there early to help and supervise the grounds keeping and sign installation, plus he directed traffic on show day. Quite the stand-up bloke....Thanks man! I owe you guys!

And MORE!

mo' pics....

More pics...

Here's some photos of the day before prep, and the next day driving in. A shot of Jim and crew coming in through downtown Lockeford, with me following them to "The Ranch"...

I couldn't even get a color matched from 1950's paint codes 25 years ago. I did what Tim stated in post #2 based on original color chips out of a book. While browsing through color books at the paint store, you might even come across a color you like more than the original, and go with that (just keep it a secret).

That's a great assemblage of documentation...nice!!! So is the next video going to be the dash cam of your drive over highway 88 (the only one open) on your way to Clements, this weekend?

Based on the apparent bathroom size, I'll guess you'll be installing the trough urinal outside?

Sounds like your carb might be flooding the engine, given that you don't need any choke to start it. The vacuum plug could have let more fresh air in to "correct" the mixture. Have you rebuilt the carb and checked all the settings? When trying to start it, look down the carb....it is wet with gas? Use a flashlight and look to the bottom of the manifold with throttle wide open and look for puddling.

Yay, another hot online oil debate! I recommend reading from the following two sources: 1. How to Build Horsepower by David Vizard (There is a chapter on lubrication systems): http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Build-Horsepower-Design/dp/1934709174 2. "Bob is the Oil Guy" online oil website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Change it regularly. Check the level regularly. Mind your pressure gauge.

I would like to see a Miller Tool booth at an upcoming Tailgate BBQ complete with demonstration guy (w/ boom mic), tool sales, and training.

There are a couple types of seals available for the pinion that I have experienced - leather or rubber (neoprene, or whatever type of polymer blend it is).... Use the rubber. The leather will leak from the start. I had to replace mine three times before I found the rubber version! You might even need to sleeve your pinion flange sealing surface if it is pitted or has a groove. SKF speedi-sleeve is the answer to that. After all that nonsense, my spare tire and surrounding area had a 1/4" tick coat of gear oil "slurry" on them that had to be hosed off with mineral spirits.