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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    That's YOU! Where did you get all those filters?
  2. John-T-53
    Well I'll be dipped....Feebay. I'm headed to NAPPA later today and I'll ask them if they can get Baldwin filters just for the hell of it.
  3. John-T-53
    Where are you finding the JC405 filters these days? I gave up on the sock filter years ago and been running the pleated element, Napa 1080. Nice!
  4. John-T-53
    Some nice "schwagg" ideas! @Brent B3B
  5. John-T-53
    Ah....far out. I thought that was just a beefy bottom window stop, lol! Yeah, should be enough for air flow, even when a passenger lights up a Marlboro in the cab.
  6. John-T-53
    I think that Vintage Power Wagons sells new cranks....
  7. John-T-53
    I like the luan in lieu of the glass. Let's go with that. Just needs some conversion varnish. I probably missed this, but how come you're making a child proof window? Or is it cat proof?
  8. John-T-53
    Check it out, courtesy of SEMA: https://www.semasan.com/legislative-alerts/utah/national/update-sema-applauds-public-private-effort-save-bonneville-salt?utm_source=ET&utm_medium=email&utm_content=749777&utm_campaign=LegUpdateCTA @48Dodger
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  9. John-T-53
    I found this site just through the web in the mid 00's, when I finally started to work on my truck after having owned it for several years. I've never been on Fake Book or any other social media (instachat, snap face, myface) and never will. Zark Fcukerberg is (one of) the enemies from within. Now days when I need a quick answer to a truck question, before going to bed I ask emeritus forum members Greybeard (Dave), Don, or Gary what they think, and when I wake up, the answer is in my head. ?
  10. John-T-53
    Several years, although I wasn't rushing. Still to this day if I come across a nice one, I'll snatch it up.
  11. John-T-53
    '53 skins are stainless. I found mine one by one by searching "dodge hubcap" on ebay. I think I got a few others from Reg Evans. After a while I had a nice assortment to pick the best ones from. The remnants became fence art. One thing I noticed was that about half the caps I came across were not useable due to severe rust-out on the snap rings.
  12. John-T-53
    Time for a saw upgrade. I finally found a vintage Unisaw for sale on Craig's list. It was in Bakersfield so I rented a Home Depot truck and made the two hour drive over there to get it. It's a 1940s or 1950s vintage (not sure exact year). This saw also came with a Biesemeyer fence, a big plus! Single phase, 240 volt bullet motor. 20A plug. I will be restoring this and adding a router lift to the table and will share progress on here. Existing on/off breaker switch is european and will be replaced with a motor starter type switch for proper protection. I need to figure that out....
  13. John-T-53
    Yes it was....
  14. John-T-53
    I recall a few times that the phrase "crab down the road" or some variation has been used on this site, usually in reference to rear axle swaps, and always reminded me of how late model Econoline vans always seemed to be "crabbing", lol. Most of these vans you see now days are complete pieces of crap. Anyways, after years of having it in the back of my mind, the opportunity to document it finally occurred. See photo below. A little hard to see on here, but the grooves in the pavement made it easy to tell. The van was going straight and the rear tire was undoubtedly inward a few grooves from the front. And this Econoline was an exception to the usual abused p.o.s. and in decent condition. Could it be.....Or do Econoline front wheels track wider than the rear?
  15. John-T-53
    I would talk to Melling and ask them. I'd guess that if you get Melling gears alone they are made for use with their chains. It's probably not that much cost difference, and perhaps even cheaper if you just order a complete timing set rather than individual gears, sans chain. But you'll have to ask your supplier.....good luck.
  16. John-T-53
    This is the solution. Get a matched set otherwise it'll never be right.
  17. John-T-53
    RE: Brent It has been noted that when he attends the BBQ (on Brandt Road), his name temporarily changes to "Brendt" in the spirit of congruence.
  18. John-T-53
    I thought Edgy heads were made in Santa Rosa (where Earl lives). Did the "Montana Boys" purchase the rights to make them?
  19. John-T-53
    A followup:
  20. John-T-53
    Evaporust only removed the rust, not the pits. The pits (voids) are what remains in the metal when the rust is gone. Valves are ground and reused all the time. Since these are already new valves you won't be hurting them but touching them up on a grinder. Keep in mind that even a human hair will prevent a valve from sealing.
  21. John-T-53
    Matt - If you have rust pits and dings/nicks on the sealing face, have them all retouched in a valve grinding machine. Don't mess around. If the rust pits lead to removing too much material (looking at the photo, probably will not), just replace that one valve. The sealing surface has to be absolutely perfect. If the seats have been cut with a seat and guide machine, then lap the valves before assembly to check sealing contact area. If they have been cut with a stone (hand held grinder), no need to lap.
  22. John-T-53
    ...and eventual censorship. The BBQ might be classified as "misinformation". Hopefully some whistleblowers come forward. Haha.
  23. John-T-53
    Nice dikes!
  24. John-T-53
    MacMaster Carr is the only source that I found for new washers. Can you purchase them in larger quantities for better pricing?
  25. John-T-53
    I recall hearing somewhere (probably from an old machinist) that back in the old days, there was "fear" that the rotating assembly fasteners would come loose and cause catastrophic failure, thus the lock washers. Some engines also had wire ties going through the nuts, and some were fastened dry. Somewhere along the line (as indicated above) this concern had dissipated, now the standard operating procedure is to liberally lube up the fasteners before torqueing them down. My main caps were quite chewed up from the lock washers. This warranted a little machining to create a clean base for the few fasteners.
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